have a mechanical clock,cuckoo clock,that needs oiling.local shop says they could do it for $72 using special clock oil.somebody here must work on these things.whats so special and is there a substitute that i could get without having to order it through the mail?
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OT-clock oil
- Thread starter scrapbin
- Start date
- Replies 33
- Views 24,403
rayman
Cast Iron
- Joined
- Mar 22, 2006
- Location
- connecticut, USA
I have a couple of clocks and have yet to get one cleaned and oiled which needs it. From what I understand, they use whale oil on clocks due it is qualities for this application. It is rather expensive and if you go to a reputable clock shop, they should also clean it aiding in it running well. If you have another clock shop in the area, get a second opinion and ask what will be done for "an oiling".
I seem to recall this general subject being discussed on this website some time ago, but I am not sure what the string title was or which forum it was on, or if it still exists after some changes took place.
I seem to recall this general subject being discussed on this website some time ago, but I am not sure what the string title was or which forum it was on, or if it still exists after some changes took place.
I don’t know anything about formulation particulars, but my understanding is that clock oils are, among other things, designed to say in place. (I’m not quite sure why this is emphasized so much as in a properly oiled clock; the oil is retained by capillary action.) Applying the correct viscosity oil properly is, however very important. It is also important that a “clock” oil not stain or pit brass. Whale oils were originally used for clocks, and would be become gummy (and acidic?) over time and stain and pit brass. I do use good quality “clock” oil, because I have it on hand, and I “sort of” believe the label. I would hate to spend hours restoring a clock only to have it require servicing prematurely. I am also very cautious as I work primarily on valuable antique English and French clocks.
The most important thing to keep in mind when considering the longevity of your clock is that it be periodically disassembled, the bearings (pivots and pivot holes) restored and acting surfaces cleaned. Grime tends to accumulate in the pivot oil and in the oil on the acting surfaces of the escapement making a nice lapping/grinding compound. Oiling without cleaning keeps the clock going in the short term, but also propagates and accelerates the grinding/deterioration of the moving mating surfaces.
I usually buy my clock supplies from one of these two places:
http://www.timesavers.com/
http://www.merritts.com/store4/public/default.aspx
The most important thing to keep in mind when considering the longevity of your clock is that it be periodically disassembled, the bearings (pivots and pivot holes) restored and acting surfaces cleaned. Grime tends to accumulate in the pivot oil and in the oil on the acting surfaces of the escapement making a nice lapping/grinding compound. Oiling without cleaning keeps the clock going in the short term, but also propagates and accelerates the grinding/deterioration of the moving mating surfaces.
I usually buy my clock supplies from one of these two places:
http://www.timesavers.com/
http://www.merritts.com/store4/public/default.aspx
L Vanice
Diamond
- Joined
- Feb 8, 2006
- Location
- Fort Wayne, IN
The Nye company of New Bedford, MA is famous for high quality special purpose oils. They sold whale oil, dolphin oil and porpoise jaw oil for over 100 years. Watch and clock oil was one of their specialties. The company history is interesting:
http://www.essortment.com/all/whaleoil_redd.htm
And Nye is still in business, now selling specialty synthetic lubricants:
http://www.nyelubricants.com/about.htm
You can easily get clock oil in small plastic tubes with a hollow needle applicator from the sources mmambro mentioned. A large part of the trick in oiling a clock is knowing how much to use and how to apply it. The needle is a great help. The older method used a wire with the end flattened and filed to a teardrop shape. The end of the wire was dipped in a little puddle of oil in a shallow agate or glass container with a cover to exclude dirt when not in use. The drop of oil was then carefully touched to the pallets and oil sinks on the clock. It is a waste of time to oil a clock if it is not first cleaned properly.
Larry
http://www.essortment.com/all/whaleoil_redd.htm
And Nye is still in business, now selling specialty synthetic lubricants:
http://www.nyelubricants.com/about.htm
You can easily get clock oil in small plastic tubes with a hollow needle applicator from the sources mmambro mentioned. A large part of the trick in oiling a clock is knowing how much to use and how to apply it. The needle is a great help. The older method used a wire with the end flattened and filed to a teardrop shape. The end of the wire was dipped in a little puddle of oil in a shallow agate or glass container with a cover to exclude dirt when not in use. The drop of oil was then carefully touched to the pallets and oil sinks on the clock. It is a waste of time to oil a clock if it is not first cleaned properly.
Larry
One of the benefits of my high school education was that I had to become a qualified watch maker.
Whale oil is not used for quite a long time - too acid. Best for antifriction still. Watch oils are made from caw's hoofs. Very simple.
Look for Moebius oil on the Net - I can't tell you what grade you need unless you can post a pic of the clock mechanism. Due to wear, oiling a clock might become an involved operation as small displacements of the escapament might render it not working. Only BENZINE must be used to clean clocks, watches or dial indicators. Dissasemble the clock, clean all holes with toothpicks sharpend triangularly, assemble back, oil as described by Larry. Do NOT oil gears or pinions and tighten the bearing holes which have become too large ( hammer a small indendation on the worn side of the hole ). If 1st or 2nd pinions are badly worn drop the respective gear a small amount on the shaft with a "poinsson" ( piece of rod with a hole just clearing the pinion ).
Never use anything but BENZINE to clean clock mechanisms.
Whale oil is not used for quite a long time - too acid. Best for antifriction still. Watch oils are made from caw's hoofs. Very simple.
Look for Moebius oil on the Net - I can't tell you what grade you need unless you can post a pic of the clock mechanism. Due to wear, oiling a clock might become an involved operation as small displacements of the escapament might render it not working. Only BENZINE must be used to clean clocks, watches or dial indicators. Dissasemble the clock, clean all holes with toothpicks sharpend triangularly, assemble back, oil as described by Larry. Do NOT oil gears or pinions and tighten the bearing holes which have become too large ( hammer a small indendation on the worn side of the hole ). If 1st or 2nd pinions are badly worn drop the respective gear a small amount on the shaft with a "poinsson" ( piece of rod with a hole just clearing the pinion ).
Never use anything but BENZINE to clean clock mechanisms.
N2IXK
Stainless
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2003
- Location
- Northern NJ
And before anyone starts screaming about leukemia, "benzine" is NOT the same thing as "benzene"....
rayman
Cast Iron
- Joined
- Mar 22, 2006
- Location
- connecticut, USA
... just a neurotoxicant...
http://www.scorecard.org/chemical-profiles/summary.tcl?edf_substance_id=8032-32-4
http://www.scorecard.org/chemical-profiles/summary.tcl?edf_substance_id=8032-32-4
SouthBendModel34
Diamond
- Joined
- Feb 4, 2004
- Location
- Metuchen, NJ, USA
Microil from www.kanolabs.com (the same outfit that makes Kroil )
From their website:
"Precision Instrument Lubricant - Resists Gumming
Super refined - precision instrument oil. For lubricating delicate bearings, gauges, meters, clocks, typewriters, guns, etc. Effective at -50 degrees F. Will not gum or congeal even after extended use. Resists evaporation, requires less frequent application."
Decent price......I have only short-term experience with it, so I can't say how it acts over the long haul.
JRR
From their website:
"Precision Instrument Lubricant - Resists Gumming
Super refined - precision instrument oil. For lubricating delicate bearings, gauges, meters, clocks, typewriters, guns, etc. Effective at -50 degrees F. Will not gum or congeal even after extended use. Resists evaporation, requires less frequent application."
Decent price......I have only short-term experience with it, so I can't say how it acts over the long haul.
JRR
jim rozen
Diamond
- Joined
- Feb 26, 2004
- Location
- peekskill, NY
I've had good results using ATF to oil watches and dial
indicator movements. I use a 0.003 diameter bit of
copper wire formed into a tiny loop, taped to a small
stick as the oiler.
Less is more in a case like this.
The ATF is non-gumming oil that was designed originally
to be a replacement for sperm whale oil, so I've been told.
Jim
indicator movements. I use a 0.003 diameter bit of
copper wire formed into a tiny loop, taped to a small
stick as the oiler.
Less is more in a case like this.
The ATF is non-gumming oil that was designed originally
to be a replacement for sperm whale oil, so I've been told.
Jim
The real Leigh
Diamond
- Joined
- Nov 23, 2005
- Location
- Maryland
Moebius oil is great stuff.
As Larry mentioned, William F. Nye Inc of New Bedford, Mass, is one of the oldest and most highly regarded lubricant manufacturers in the country. I think their Astro Oil (recently discontinued) is the best stuff on the planet. But at over $100 an ounce, it's not for everybody. This ain't 10W30.
- Leigh
As Larry mentioned, William F. Nye Inc of New Bedford, Mass, is one of the oldest and most highly regarded lubricant manufacturers in the country. I think their Astro Oil (recently discontinued) is the best stuff on the planet. But at over $100 an ounce, it's not for everybody. This ain't 10W30.
- Leigh
P.S. Rotate the 1st wheel back and forth. Watch the shaft ends of the other - the direction of wear will be quite clear. Scratch a tiny mark next to the wear point, dissasemble and punch on the oposite side of the plattens so it doesn't show. \you need a w/m anvil - a 2'' square steel plate nicely lapped on top will do just fine.
The real Leigh
Diamond
- Joined
- Nov 23, 2005
- Location
- Maryland
Hi AlexO,
So what/where is RSA?
Thanks.
- Leigh
So what/where is RSA?
Thanks.
- Leigh
chuckey
Stainless
- Joined
- Jul 21, 2005
- Location
- Wensleydale, UK
FWIW, Sperm oil is the stuff that barbers and hair dressers use to oil their trimmers.
Frank
Frank
In the US, this would be approximated by Stoddard Solvent, commonly sold as mineral spirits paint thinner.
See:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Benzine
The real Leigh
Diamond
- Joined
- Nov 23, 2005
- Location
- Maryland
Ahhh... OK. My mind wasn't working.
I worked with a guy from RSA on a project some years ago. Nice guy. He spoke highly of the place.
Thanks.
- Leigh
Seeing as how there are some watchmakers around, I thought I'd mention that for years now I've had a couple of new Mikron cycloid gear hobs that I have no use for. Very valuable to those thusly inclined I'm sure, but not to me.
If anybody is interested, drop me a line.
.
...porpoise jaw oil? Somebody was REALLY looking for a way to make use of all those porpoise jaws laying about the place..
If anybody is interested, drop me a line.
.
...porpoise jaw oil? Somebody was REALLY looking for a way to make use of all those porpoise jaws laying about the place..
Peter S
Diamond
- Joined
- May 6, 2002
- Location
- Auckland, New Zealand
AlexO,
The word "benzine" was used here interchangeably with "petrol" by an older generation, e.g. my father. Are you saying that benzine is a specific product which must be used, rather than petrol, white spirits etc? I know (people (not watchmakers) who have used petrol for cleaning clocks, was always curious about this.
-----------------
As for oil, wouldn't chain bar oil be the best?
The word "benzine" was used here interchangeably with "petrol" by an older generation, e.g. my father. Are you saying that benzine is a specific product which must be used, rather than petrol, white spirits etc? I know (people (not watchmakers) who have used petrol for cleaning clocks, was always curious about this.
-----------------
As for oil, wouldn't chain bar oil be the best?
