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daryl bane Member Posts: 240 |
I recently acquired a Quick cut-type knurling tool. I didn't get any instructions with it. I started experimenting and got some OK results, but I feel alittle more info would really get excellent knurls. IP: Logged |
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CCWKen Member Posts: 218 |
I've never known any of the accessory tools to come with instructions. Knurling is not only an art form but also a mathmatical challenge. You must use a knurl (pitch) based on the size (diameter) of your stock. I printed up an Excel Worksheet and keep it in the shop. It shows diameters from .200 to 2.500 , by .010, and the best knurl set (Fine, Medium, Course) to use with that diameter stock. Sure makes the jobs easier. Remember, it's like cutting threads except that the metal is being displaced, not removed. Use a lube; WD-40 works. IP: Logged |
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Doug Member Posts: 324 |
CCWKen, I know what you mean about the diameter business, but since I started using a modified B&S scissor knurl tool off a screw machine I haven't had any tracking problems. Mostly I knurl in the CNC. For most materials I run around 800rpm, use a very fast feed and get the knurl off the part as fast as the machine will rapid. I run the knurls dry, with a shot of coolant prior to engaging the workpiece to lubricate the roll pins. Just finished a run of 316 SS parts, 3/8 diameter stock knurled 1.5" on the end, 3 seconds cycle time for a coarse knurl. I don't see how anything other than an opposed scissor knurler could do this job. The tool Daryl is asking about is a cut knurler, it actually cuts instead of displacing material. I have two of those type and have never been satisfied with the results. The cutting is not an efficient process so the knurl pattern does not have the crisp quality of formed knurls in my experience. IP: Logged |
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John Stevenson Member Posts: 197 |
I feel that this diameter business is well over stated. Knurling is mainly decorative or non critical practical use i.e. hand grip so the diameter isn't usually critical. I do agree that when you start off you can get a knurl that doesn't match up as regards pitch and diameter but lets look at the practicalities of this. Take a 1" diameter bar, it has a circumference of 1 x Pi = 3.142" So on our 1" bar we know that every 6 thou of infeed will create one less tpi, remember we are working on diameter so it's halved. So when you get an out of pitch knurl you can only be 6 odd thou away from a perfect knurl at the most. The moral behind all this complicated and unwanted maths is John S. IP: Logged |
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daryl bane Member Posts: 240 |
Many thanks all for the info. There were a number of European sites as well as Dorian, that had some good info. My second round of experiments were quite successful, with gorgeous results. And in one pass. Now I know why these tools are so expensive! Thanks again. IP: Logged |
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Mark McGrath Member Posts: 88 |
Quick cut knurling tools do come with instructions.The tools are made by Miller,Innsbruck and I`m sure they have a website somewhere. We produce thousands of parts a week with a straight coarse knurl and apart from the M10 hole up the middle the knurl is the only dimension with a +/- 0.002" tolerance on it. We don`t use cut knurls on this,just J&S £5 wheels in Herbert scissor type heads,feed on from the end up 20mm and back,takes six or seven seconds and brings the diameter up about 0.016". I have the instructions for seeting Quick knurling tools if anyone is stuck. Regards,Mark IP: Logged |
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ian-g Junior Member Posts: 1 |
Thank you John. At last some sanity and practicality on this topic of knurling. I have always been amused by the lengths that some home shop machinists go to to split that last hair. While I don't want to take away from those that choose, or need to, to work to minute tolerances I would guess that 95% at least of what we do doesn't need to be within 10 thou, let alone within one ten thousandth. We never used to worry about the diameter of knurling in production. I don't recall ever seeing a drawing that toleranced a knurled surface, other than by the general machining tolerance which was usually plus or minus 0.010" or even 0.025". IP: Logged |
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Doug Member Posts: 324 |
ian-g, Of late I have had a few production jobs where the knurled surfaces were specified to close tolerances. Not a problem, though. I set up the knurling head and run a few tests to check the knurled diameter. Then adjust the blank diameter to give slightly over the print diameter on the knurl. Then run over the knurl with a positive rake turning tool to bring it to exact size. This way you can create knurls within a few tenths on diameter. I believe the reason home-shoppers fuss over the knurling process so much is they aren't using the correct knurling tools. I mean, have you ever tried to make a decent knurl on a light duty machine using one of those side infeed knurl heads that need umpteen passes to come to depth? IP: Logged |
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