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D. Thomas Moderator Posts: 3225 |
I need a "ten ton" flatbed gooseneck trailer of about 24 foot deck and 5 foot dovetail. Like the looks of the dual tandems but it seem like they often put the axles so far back that if you really had that joker loaded down with 10,000+ pounds, you'd have so much weight on the ball you'd be overloaded on an F350 (of course towing 16,000 lbs total would be "overloaded" from Ford's standpoint no matter how the weight was distributed, but we won't "go there" for the moment). Alternatively, a triple single axle gooseneck looks kinda doofus, and probably doesn't turn as well, but it seems like those axles "spread out" like that would be better for distribution of the weight on the ball. GVW is actually slightly more with the triple axle and price is typically $1,000 less. Any flaws in my logic that a triple axle would really be better for towing with 10,000 lb plus load of machine tools ? IP: Logged |
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swellwelder Member Posts: 82 |
Maybe I'm stating the obvious, but the amount of weight on the hitch depends greatly on where the center of gravity of what you are loading sits in relation to the axles on the trailer. If you have something long enough that you can't shift it forward or back to get the proper load on the hitch, then you do have a problem! I would recommend the use of a pintle type hitch, rather than a 2" or 2&5/16". Pintles are designed for much higher tongue weight, and are one less thing to worry about when pulling. I have used both double and triple axle trailers, and until you get them loaded near to capacity cornering is not a big problem, you are sure going to erase a little tread off the trailer tires on the triple, but is not a large concern. IP: Logged |
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D. Thomas Moderator Posts: 3225 |
swell, you didn't read my post carefully enough...I pointed out that most of the dual tandems I've encountered tend to place the axles pretty near the rear, in which case, balancing the load via machine placement, is a limited option. In fact, I was looking at one just today, made by Diamond Trailers in TX, that was very nice for the price, except for just that problem. The dealer had two of these on the lot, in two different lengths, and both of them had maybe 4 feet of deck behind the rearmost dual axle before the dovetail started down.
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Barry Briscoe Member Posts: 87 |
I have also been looking for a trailer.I was contemplating a three axle trailer also.I found a decent 14,000 pound GN and I was thinking that I could add another 7,000 axle to give it 21,000 lb capacity and keep the majority of my weight over the axles. One concern I have is being able to drive a forklift up the rear ramps.I guess I would have to weld some steel flats on the ramps witk a little roughness on the steel so the forklift tires won't slip,in order to get up on the trailer.I have also noticed that the channel bracing under some trailer floors is every 24" so I may have to add additional bracing for peace of mind. One advantage that I see with the three axles is that it would make tire changes a whole lot easier.I looked at a tandem dually the other day and noticed the tires have an "D" load rating which is adequate,but I would prefer the "E" load rating for a little more money if I had a choice.The triple axle should have "E" rated tires on them. It would seem to me that the GN hitch would distribute the weight better than a pintle hitch as my GN hitch ball on my Dodge 3500 is located about four inches away from the rear axle towards the cab allowing the truck to carry some of the trailer weight if the trailer was loaded properly.
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D. Thomas Moderator Posts: 3225 |
I posted this same question over at the towing forum at the Ford Diesel site and one guy says he's had both types of trailers and had tire scrubbing problems with his triple axle and actually *broke* an axle during a tight turn in a truck stop and pulled the bearing out of another one (a seperate incident) He says the dual tandems have better brakes, as another considertion in favor of dual tandems. But then another guy says he also had tire scrubbing problems on his triple, but changed the tires from 75 to 85's and that solved the problem. So, now I don't know what to think [This message has been edited by D. Thomas (edited 04-21-2003).] IP: Logged |
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yf Member Posts: 60 |
Sounds like you need a dual tandem with the axles moved forward
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Richard Rogers Member Posts: 313 |
Myself, I went dual tandem and didn't look back. I also went hydraulic disc brakes too. The DT suspension is better, and it would have a stronger equalizer, which is where I've always had wear catch up with me on trailers anyway. Not to mention having one LESS equalizer to deal with. I happened to talk to the man who built my trailer about three weeks ago. He said that triples were quite bad to tear up because of their obvious tracking problem. Down here, there are lots of plant nurseries. They run triples, and he builds those type of trailers. At the time, he happened to be building his first one with dual tandems. The reason he said the singles were popular for that type trailer is that they have a small wheel well area, as these are not over-the-axle trailers used for this field, so there's a slight loss in cargo area. He didn't mind the triples busting up, as he gets paid to fix them! He's had people ask him to make a quad axle (I've seen them!) and he refuses. When I'm a long way from home, I have NO desire to mess with my trailer's underbelly. I remember being about 275 miles from my place with a light dual-axle/single-wheeled trailer years ago, welding up the undercarriage's gizzard and innards in a driveway! I just HAPPENED to break down right in front of a one-man-fix-it shop. The owner was too old to crawl around under there. I paid him for the use of his tools and welder though! That's my advice. To each his own, I suppose. Richard IP: Logged |
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Mudflap Member Posts: 202 |
My trailer is an 18,000 lb 43' triple axle 5th wheel. It scrubs heck out of the tires and turns real hard in spite of the leverage of the 43' length. And chews up the driveway at the same time. It's an enclosed trailer so I don't have a choice, but if I was buying a flatbed (I want a tilting gooseneck) I'd go for the dual tandem. The triple axle doesn't change the weight distribution because there are (or should be) equalizers between the axles. Dual tandems have better brakes and the dual tires give you more safety margin when you blow a tire - with duals you can limp off the highway with a flat without ruining a wheel. A deck longer than 24' would allow you to move the load around more for weight distribution. The pro freight haulers I see on the interstate with hot shot rigs mostly have 38' to 44' dual tandems and Cummins/Dodges. I've seen many long trailers with one large crate centered over the tandems. IP: Logged |
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sandman2234 Member Posts: 355 |
Six tires vs eight. Which will hold more load? Braking is usually the "correct" way to rate the capacity of a vehicle, since most of the times it is the weak link. What you really need is a tandem trailer, with a slider under it, so you can adjust the wheels to the position you want. Stretched out for long runs, shortened up for tight turns. Plus you can take some of the weight off the truck or trailer by simply moving the wheels. I have a 45' triple drop axle trailer sitting in the back yard. Never pulled it, except to get it home from across town. IP: Logged |
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D. Thomas Moderator Posts: 3225 |
How does one operate a slider ? Is it done by blocking the wheels, pulling out a pin and moving the truck/trailer forward or backward until axles are in desired position ? I've never seen one on a gooseneck...I suspect the reason is either too much added weight, height or expense.... but I'm all ears if it can be done at reasonable cost, weight and doesn't raise the trailer height more than 2 inches. Was at an auction yesterday, where I ran into someone with a triple axle PJ gooseneck. I asked about tire scrubbing issues in tight turns and he says that hasn't been a problem at all. He said he also had a dual tandem of same length, and both he and his partner said they preferred the triple axle by a slim margin...something about it being lighter, tracking better and less bounce. OTOH, someone on another forum mentioned the annoyance of toll roads, where they charge per axle, so that's yet another consideration. If they were the same price, I'd go with the dual tandem on that issue alone, but at over $1,000 price difference, that's pay for alot of extra tolls, so I'm still wishy washy back and forth on this issue Btw, here's a photo of the Diamond trailer, which shows just how far back the axles are.
[This message has been edited by D. Thomas (edited 04-23-2003).] IP: Logged |
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D. Thomas Moderator Posts: 3225 |
Just got off the phone with Diamond C. Factory guy recommended going with a "spread" axle dual tandem rather than moving the axles forward. Center to center is normally about 4 feet, spread axle would be about 6 feet. $150 extra charge. Of course then you get back into tire tread dragging issues in tight turns...any thoughts on that ? IP: Logged |
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L Webb Member Posts: 647 |
Tire drag or scrubbing is a fact of life with spread axles. It actually even happens with no spread on dual tandems. Tight turns are rough on tires, axles, suspension regardless of spread, even more so with a heavy load. When I worked for the plywood company, the drivers that had the most tire and suspension problems were the ones that constantly did tight U-turns in the yard and making deliveries. If you make it a habit of trying to avoid tight turns, your trailer will be much better off. If you need to make a tight turn, just do it at a reasonable speed. Too slow is just as bad as too fast. I don't know how much of a problem it is with a gooseneck trailer, but with a fifth wheel flatbed trailer having a long wheel base, you can suffer from a sudden twist of the trailer while doing a tight turn with a loaded trailer. I have seen the front of the trailer twist and put the load into the headboard and the corner of the trailer into the frame rails. To sum it all up, just do your best to avoid tight U-turn type turns, especially when loaded. Les IP: Logged |
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sandman2234 Member Posts: 355 |
I think I would avoid a spread axle simply because of the added wear and tear that it puts the truck and trailer through. If air ride suspension was an option, then I would say most definitely yes, since you can dump the air bags on one axle which takes the strain off of it. (Usually the back axle). Trailer manufacturers don't like the air dumps because it over stresses the trailer frames. (Got to use your head about some things) Sliders use a series of holes with 4 pins. You pull the pins manually and then lock the trailer brakes. Pull trailer forward or backwards to place the tandem where you want it. Replace pins and your off and running. That plastic stuff they use on travel trailer fifth wheels works good to allow it to slide easily. Probably can be manufactured without too much height increase, if any. IP: Logged |
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Barry Briscoe Member Posts: 87 |
Don, I bought a dual tandem 20'+5'dovetail 10tn GN made by Tennessee Valley Trailers.They are made in Hartselle,AL phone number 256-773-4032;I ran a google search,but I can't find a website and only a few of their trailers offered for sale. I got a good deal on a new 2002 year trailer and it seems to be well made overall.I'll have to make some ramps for a forklift and the deck is PT pine and I would have preferred oak.The seller has a good deal on a 3 axle 21,000 pound GN that he is about to discount and advertise.The 3 axle has sturdier ramps,I-beam construction on the gooseneck,deck about 6" higher,and had nicer wood,think it was 102" wide,but I think the dual tandem is the best choice for my use.I'll email the details on it. IP: Logged |
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Ox Member Posts: 223 |
Here is a link to a pic of mine. http://www.snowest.com/fusetalk3/attachments//chip%20spinner%2Ejpg It is actually a tri axle although one is hid here. I like it. However it did come with light duty tires like someone else had posted here earlier. (Enter MAD icon here!) I guess the pic doesn't show too much, but mine has a split beaver rear that can be put in the up (level) position and down in a beaver tail position to load wheeled vehicles. I have loaded up to an #8000 capacity forktruck on there already. Had to use an #8000 Warn winch and snatch block, but.... Tight loaded turns doo squish the tires, but I haven't had any problems with that yet, and I seem to find PLENTY of tight places to get into whenever I do use it. By rights you need a class three CDL in Ohio anyhow. Seems crazy to me, but I wear a Johny deere hat and play dumb farmer. Take my ticket and go home. I looked through the CDL training book a number of yrs ago and it is 99% related to fleet drivers. And IMO paperwork doesn't make you a better driver. OH to see some of the drivers that come in here.... (roll eyes) Mine is made by Jamies Welding in ... Arkansas? If you are interested I can probably get you a town. Mine is three #7000 axles. You being concerned about placing a #10,000 load on that trailer is of no concern. BTW mine is 30'. You want your load centered ahead of your center axle! You want more than net tongue weight on your hitch! Keep in mind that a few feet ahead of the axle centerline is still a LONG way from your hitch! If you have a 1 ton truck I don't think you are going to have any problems just buying one that is like everyone elses. I went long to get better ride and handling. I have had well over 20K net on it before for short distance. Can haul 15K with ease. (just watch out for those bridge entrences around Joliet Ill. !) I pull with a duelly Cummins. (It came with a free Dodge truck too. LOL!) BTW, I have no idea what they are atlking about as far as the brakes on the tripple not as good. I can't even set mine at all untill I put about #4000 on so it doesn't slide the tires with the controller set low. Think snow Eh! [This message has been edited by Ox (edited 04-24-2003).] IP: Logged |
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D. Thomas Moderator Posts: 3225 |
Yeah, see there Barry, you screwed up getting a dual tandem ![]() Ox, I'd like to see your beavertail...is it hydraulic or a manual deal ? A Trail Eze gooseneck with hydraulic tail is a mere $12,000. Trail King version is $16,000 !! And then there's the ultimate, the Ledwell (below pix)...$20,000 !! IP: Logged |
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Richard Rogers Member Posts: 313 |
What's wrong with you building the trailer you actually want? Unless you (A.) Happen into some distress sale of EXACTLY what it is you're looking for (and it's still not clear to me) OR (B.) Go ahead and pay someone to build it, you may be money ahead to go on and take some kind of plunge. The expensive part (truck) is already done. Just trying to see what it is you really want, that's all. It sounds like you're trying to save rigging bills or something. Not sure. If you DID take a forklift to your auction sites, wouldn't you lose the payload of bringing it back? At one auction, some little dictator that worked for the auction company and remained for "security purposes" caught me unhooking machinery myself and wanted to have me kicked off the property because I didn't have any proof of insurance for rigging. What would you do about that? Are you going to carry the 1 million plus insurance they require? Where are you going with all this, Don? Richard IP: Logged |
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D. Thomas Moderator Posts: 3225 |
Richard what I really want would be so expensive as to give me heart palpitations It also would have too much wind resistance and be too heavy, so back to compromise city. Re the forklift senario, your right that the delimma of hauling a forklift to pick up auction iron is any forklift capable of doing so properly is so heavy itself that your potential load of goodies is then severely limited. My needs in that regard are hauling a forklift from one place to another locally, as I have "stuff" stored in 3 different buildings within 5 miles of one another. Also, every once in a blue moon a forklift will go cheap at an auction, and I'll buy it just to upgrade what I have or resell, so it'd be nice to have the capability of hauling one. I've even bought forklifts just to do my own loading at an auction, and then sell the forklift for a little more than I paid for it, hence saving $1,000 in loading cost and making a small profit too. But that's pretty rare really, forklifts tend to sell higher at machine tool auctions than you can buy them any day of the week at a forklift wholesaler. Barry and I saw a rusty, worn out tires, Hyster 15K solid tire propane lift sell at auction this past Tuesday for $19 or $20,000. I happened to be interested in this same model a year ago and know for a fact you could buy the same lift, sans rust with good tires for ~half~ that much at a wholesaler in Charlotte, NC any day of the week...they have plenty of that model all the time. (edited the "over $20,000" on the Hyster forklift when I remembered this was one of the rare auctions without a buyers prem) [This message has been edited by D. Thomas (edited 04-24-2003).] IP: Logged |
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Ox Member Posts: 223 |
No, my tail is all manuall. You can't have a load on it AND move it too. Up or down eh? You can have one side up and one side down for whatever reason..? I don't currently have any other pics of it that I can think of....wait a minute.... Here, not quite what you were hoping for, but better than the other. LOL! This trailer was quite cheap compared to many, (I don't remember anymore just how much) but like I said it came with under rated tires. It also came with cheap wood, but that isn't a biggy. At the time I bought that I was skimping, so to have to replace the wood in a few yrs is better than paying out the nose then. IYKWIM? If a guy was to order one and spec certain tires I am sure it wouldn't be a problem. If you are real interested, I can get more/better pics in a few days probably. I'm sure he would build a T/D too. BTW, I had it in Charlotte last fall at an auction. Nov/Dec? Absolutely no comparisson to pulling a bumper trailer! I hate bumper trailers for anything bigger than sleds, say #5000 or so. If you are serioous about hauling anything, G/N is the only way to go! edit: Sorry, I lied, I got to thinking that I didn't have my trailer with me down there. I was after a barfeed and that would have easily set on my flatbed. I believe that mine was more in the $4-6K area. Think Snow Eh! [This message has been edited by Ox (edited 04-24-2003).] [This message has been edited by Ox (edited 04-24-2003).] [This message has been edited by Ox (edited 04-25-2003).] [This message has been edited by Ox (edited 04-25-2003).] IP: Logged |
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Richard Rogers Member Posts: 313 |
Finally, I see what you want. Yeah, I can see the dilemma now. Is consolidation on your mind? I remember the as-of-lately post of yours about a big building out in the country. This would get rid of the multiple locations? If you're going with a new building, interest rates are okay, BUT the insurance is unmerciful, as my other earlier post decries. Of course, since you pay cash for everything, I guess this is not a problem.
I declined one, and went 30 feet of pay-space. I rarely haul any forklifts or vehicles. Undoubtedly worth it if needed, but not in my case. As I know you have multiple plans, keep this in mind. I went through Compromiseville a while back myself. Richard IP: Logged |
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Barry Briscoe Member Posts: 87 |
Here are several pictures of my trailer.I need to add an 8'x2"steel round bar to my trailer tail so that I can move my trailer ramps close enough together for a forklift.I also need to weld a couple of reinforced removable flats to go on top of the angles on my ramps for the forklift wheels. I went to Atlanta this morning and picked up a Bridgeport.I hardly made it out of my driveway as it had been raining and my trailer and truck were sitting on some red dirt that turned into red goo overnight.I finally got it on my driveway and got some traction on the gravel going uphill.I made it out of the driveway and spun the wheels in 2-3 inches of mud up the dirt road to the top of the hill where it is flat again.When I came home,I knew I would only have one try to get it into the driveway with ditches on both sides and slick mud going downhill.Barely made it in the driveway,as I only have about a foot of extra space if I make my turn from the far side of the dirt road at correct time and I kept the momentum of the truck steady to avoid sliding in the turn.If my trailer was a triaxle,one side would have been stuck in the ditch,but the inside tires on the dually were still on firm ground when I made my turn which saved the day. The Bridgeport that I bought has a wide knee which is a little different;I guess it was a special order.It was made in 1983.I thought the way that I rigged the BPT to trailer worked well.I put a 4x6 in between the knee screw and mill base.Brought down the knee against the 4x6 and locked the knee.I criss-crossed the chains in front of the knee screw and went over the 4x6,stuck two short 2x4's in front of the knee screw where the chains crossed,and layed two 4x4's on the table with the criss-crossing ratcheting nylon webbing over them with some old leather gloves under the webbing to prevent any abrasion. [This message has been edited by Barry Briscoe (edited 04-25-2003).] IP: Logged |
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D. Thomas Moderator Posts: 3225 |
Barry, your driveway trailblazin reminds me of when I lived out in dairy farm country in central NC. I lived on top a small hill, unpaved long driveway that gave semi truckers and sometimes, me, fits. I can probably trace my herniated back disk to years of come-a-longing stuck forklifts out of the muck. I had the biggest made in the USA come-a-long you could buy too, but still broke an extention handle once, and had a cable ferrule give way. I like the "liscense plate" on your ramps IP: Logged |
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Cass Member Posts: 231 |
Barry, You will have a lot more stable load if you run a strap over the top of the Bridgeport and over the highest point of any load so that you get more downward force on the machine. The way you have it tied in the picture it can wiggle a lot more. It becomes more important the further you have to go. In regard to three axles vs dual tandem trailers just look at what is going down the road and look at the loads. Dual tandem goosenecks are vastly better for heavy loading, easier backing, better brakes. Three axles are for amateurs and yard maintenance guys. IP: Logged |
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Mudflap Member Posts: 202 |
Another point - working on trailer brakes is an enormous PITA and tandems have 33.3% fewer brakes to work on... IP: Logged |
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D. Thomas Moderator Posts: 3225 |
quote: Ox, are you am "amateur" ? After reading, the responses here, responses on the Ford diesel forum, and talking with dual and triple folks, my conclusion is that the triple axle trailer will "do" just as much as the dual tandem, and do so well, as long as you don't have to make alot of tight turns. It's also the most cost effective, typically costing $1,000 less. But for someone racking up alot of miles (the "professional" perhaps ?) and making tight turns, the dual tandem is probably a better choice. I would think the oil bath axles should last longer. IP: Logged |
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Ox Member Posts: 223 |
I'm not for hire, but at the same tyme I don't do yard maintenance either. So now I am confused. Macho, macho, macho man. LOL! BTW, I don't remember anything about a price diff when I ordered mine. I went with the tripple b/c I got #7000 axles which yielded me another #1000 payload, over twin #10's. You can also get tripple 6's for #18,000 gross.(plus tongue weight, which on a 1 ton is probably about #4000 too.) Think Snow Eh! [This message has been edited by Ox (edited 04-26-2003).] IP: Logged |
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sandman2234 Member Posts: 355 |
One thng to consider, if you overbuy at an auction, and you want to make it all fit in one trip home, and the pieces of the puzzle just don't fit right, as far as loading the trailer evenly, a 3 axle has less distance of open beam on the trailer. Meaning if you overload it, your not as likely to mess up something (provided the competition is built out of the same size beams). Less span between the truck and the trailer axles, means less chance of twisting the trailer should something adverse happen. However, some people can twist any of them. I have seen some good trailers twisted beyond repair. David from Jax IP: Logged |
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Bear Junior Member Posts: 13 |
Myopinion is worth what you pay for it at least less than a cup of coffee. I have owned and towed goosenecks since 1967 and own 6 currently. I have 2 tandem duals, two dual axle and 2 3 axle. One three axle is a livestock trailer and the 36' 3 axle wears tires at twice the rate of the 2 axle. I owned a 36' 3 axle float when in commercial construction/oilfield dirt business and it was usually used to haul steel or components and parked on job. For day to day hauling I prefer the tandem duals. Mine have 4 square inches more braking surface than my 3 axle low (load between axles) backhoe trailer and I get more tire milage on the tandem. I have never replaced the bearings on an oil filled tandem, but have replaced lots of bearings on the singles. I pull a trailer nearly every day with a load of materials, farm tractors, industrial tractors or livestock. Look at the weight difference between a new tandem dual and 3 axle--there is usually more steel in the dual. I recently bought a mini fifth wheel tandem dual and converted it to gooseneck (it needed 9 tires, new brakes and wood deck) and after repairs, I have less than $2800 in it. All my opinion but wish you luck. I have also owned several pintle hook tag a longs and think that the gooseneck is the way to go unless you have 3 ton + tow vehicles like tandem dumps or tandem winch trucks. Bear IP: Logged |
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Richard Rogers Member Posts: 313 |
Bear, Great information. I am also trying to keep Don from going that single tire route, but it's up to him. My girlfriend's horse trailer with tandem singles needs brake work right now, and I'd hate to have a third axle to worrry (note 3rd "r" in worry to represent the unnecessary axle!) about. Richard Richard IP: Logged |
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Ox Member Posts: 223 |
I had the camera and the trailer out at the same time, so I got you a pic. http://www.snowest.com/fusetalk/attachments//GooseneckBeavertail%2Ejpg Think Snow Eh! IP: Logged |
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Jeremy Member Posts: 74 |
Having lost a tire on the Kenworth semi I drove last summer, I can say without a doubt that dual wheels is the way to go. I was able to unload and drive 20 miles back to the farm at about 40mph without having to have a tire company come out and close down one lane of traffic while they changed tires. IP: Logged |
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