Advice on a manual machine purchase

[D. Rey]

Could you give me some tips on what to look for?

Right now I have been looking mostly at the HARIG machines, and have one Brown and Sharp on my watch list.

I have been looking at them for quite a while.....I want a GOOD one, that is accurate, and doesn't need to get fixed.......I know I will have to pay a lot........figure I should get a ball bearing table........6x12........and I do NOT want an automatic.........
Just more stuff to go wrong.........I have been looking hard on EBAY, the ones I like are between 3 and 5K which is a lot, but even if I spend that much, how do I know I am getting a good machine?

[agertool]

I ran a Harig 612 for 15 years but never had one with ball bearing table, just hardened tool steel ways. From what I have seen, you should be able to pick up a good one with read out and hardened ways for around 2k give or take a few bucks. What do you plan on using the grinder for? I have Acer that I bought 12 years or go and I can't complain about that one either, just throwing out another name for consideration.

AT

[Edster]

I've got a 97 Harig 6 x 12 with the standard ways. I bought it off eBay a few years ago for 3-4k kant remember exactly how much. It came with the magnet and fine feed option but no dro. The grinder was and still looks like new. It still works great and leaves a very nice finish. Harig will also rebuild the spindle or whole grinder if it's needed at their facility in Illinois.

Good luck

[Robert Campbell Jr.]

I shopped intensely for about 6 months, for a bargain, damned by my skirt wearin' heritage.....

L.A. Craigs list, a later model Covel 6 X 12 manual grinder with a good 6 X 12 permanent magnet chuck, for about 10% of the prices above.

It had spent it's life in the shop of a custom professional movie camera maker in Hollywood. It was only turned on occasionally.

He'd moved to NY years before and had left it in the garage of a friend. Friend was easy to bargain with, was moving that weekend! His ad read, "You must move yourself, it's extremely heavy." Music to my ears!

If I had it to do over again, I would probably have held out for a 2 axis automatic but I absolutely love what that Covel does for my projects. With most grinding jobs, the tiny material removal rate can stretch into tedium and I'm a "get 'er done" type....

Oh yeah, I'd only run 2 surface grinders before and it wasn't until I got the Covel, that I realized they got it right. The vertical wheel feed handle is down, angled outward on the right side, very convenient. The other 2 I'd run had the handle in the awkward position, above the column. Actually, I had to run a high wheel version of a friends, after I got the Covel, to remember/recognize the awkwardness.

With some lengthy grinding jobs I like to pull up a stool. The low position of all three controls makes it perfect.

Bob

[split tenth]

If you're buying a Harig make sure the oil pump is working and in the sump at the back of the machine.A new one is expensive and is made in China.

[machine1medic]

Personal preference having used both,I like the iron better.
You would think the balls would be less fatigueing but they arn't.

Take a fine indicator on a good stalk, Noga or such.
About every two inches top to bottom.....see if the down-wheel
is smooth and responcive....... bad indications are like on down-feed
wheel-movement with no or delayed indictor movement.

Take a block of stree-free steel (no cold-rolled) say 5 X 10 X 2 thick.
mill out the faces an 1/8" deep, leaving a half inch frame around the 5 X 10.

Do a grind , spark-out,,,, now flip kiddy-corner spark-out.
now go back and end-flop and other regions of the chuck.

Bad ways will tellegraph by taking corners off before the whole frame.
Good Luck
m1m

[quote] split tenth....
If you're buying a Harig make sure the oil pump is working and in the sump at the back of the machine.A new one is expensive and is made in China.

Pumps can be found .... but he's right ........if it ain't working
how long has it been that way ......... no thanks!

[Kevco]

My opinion is Parker Majestic is the best. I also like Reids and that is what I run now. We currently have over 50 of these and durability and repeatability is great. If your running a lot of flat work or head and overall the ball bearing type may suit you more but I personally don't care for them. Certain ones do run like glass but it becomes bad when trying to mic a part as the table moves TOO easy and you have to either set the stop or "try" to adjust the drag. On the few Mitsui's we have, it is a pain.

To test saddle and way wear do as machine1medic said or this is an easier way I use without grinding. Use an indiactor on a good extended post(flexible or solid). Mount it to the spindle and extend it out as far as possible and check all 4 corners of the chuck. If you mount it directly under the spindle this will only show you if the person grinding the chuck do a good job. To check wear you have to go off to the side.

If you get one I'd also HIGHLY suggest pulling the saddle and table off to inspect. On the Reids and Parkers, they have a habit of breaking the springs that hold the oiler wheels up to lube the ways. If you run them dry in spots you'll trash it in a hurry. The above test will show that too.

A lot of your machine decison is effected on WHAT your main grinding work is. It would help to know what that is.

[D. Rey]

Appreciate the advice guys thanks

Dave