New surface grinder wheel question

[easymike29]

I often rough at .025 depth with about .002 - .005 infeed per table reversal on the ancient B & S, & over .040 sometimes on my DoALL D10. the cut is all on the side of the wheel. For many operations, it cuts cooler and leaves the part more stable.

I have always found that the depth of cut is only limited to the amount of horsepower available. Of course the edge of the wheel is going to take a beating and you have to adjust the rate of in feed. Depths of .025, .050, .075 or more are all readily achievable. You'll have to have the proper grade and grit of wheel but you shouldn't be afraid of pushing the envelope. If you have an automatic grinder and can reduce the in feed to the desired level all the better. You can then walk away and do something important. When the wheel sounds like it is crunching you can be assured that all is well. If it is screaming then you need to change one of the parameters or maybe change the wheel.

Gene

[cash]

Originally Posted by John in CA

Interesting information, cash. Since you guys have made the move to all ceramic, I'll ask:
You say the man-made abrasive likes to be pushed a little harder, which I presume means its optimum performance is at slightly larger than normal depths of cut. How do you find they perform for dusting off that last two tenths, in say A2 at 62 RC, compared to a straight aluminum oxide wheel?

With a fresh dress on the wheel dusting off the last couple tenths is not an issue. When you are in the stock removal mode then this is where you want to push the wheel as hard as you can.