Abrasive 3B surface grinder. Recommended oils?

Hi all, I have an Abrasive model 3B surface grinder, mechanical automatic 8x24. It was a CL deal, everything seems to work fine, but it is hard to find literature for the machine and I'm using it for a few jobs now. I have some Chevron way oil I use with my lathe and Index knee mill, that I've been using in my one-shot oiler on the SG. I put some light turbine oil in the oil feeder for the spindle.

At this point I'd like to run something more correct for the spindle, and I hoped someone else has this grinder, or literature on it, even a manual (one can always hope.) I've had to figure out the operation and adjustments myself, got that but a parts diagram would be nice!

Also, my shop stays mostly below freezing during the winter- it feels like the cranks on the table are much harder to turn with the machine cold, is that due to increased viscosity of the way oil, and can I substitute lighter oil to assuage that?

I appreciate any advice you all may have for me.

Your oils sound about right. What does not sound right is grinding at subfreezing temperatures. There is no way you will control size to grinding tolerances in such conditions.

Well, that stands to reason. I have been only doing some rough grinding type stuff, nothing to real tolerances.
It is a priority to insulate that shop so the heater will always keep it above 50f or so.
Until then, do you think that grinding in that cold could hurt the machine in any way?

It won't hurt the machine but you will be working to about .002" or so. Grinding is done for 2 reasons, finish and size. You may get a fine finish while freezing your balls off but inside it will be oversize. If temps go much below freezing I would use a thinner way lube and a non toxic antifreeze in the coolant system. In shops where they work to tenths routinely parts are required to "soak" from 8 to 24 hrs before inspection to allow them to be at the inspection lab temp.
If all you want is a pretty finish then that does not apply.

Thanks! The machine does work a lot more freely with the temp above 60f in there, I found a plate on the head that says 30 saybolt at 100f for spindle, and 100 saybolt at 100f for the gearbox. I'm gonna look at that way oil and see if it's equivalent.
As for dimension, I'm a knifemaker doing mostly damascus steel billet work with this right now, so .005 tolerances work just fine for this stuff!

Hi there Salem, I saw your video on youtube and left a comment. I have the same surface grinder that I picked up earlier this year, also a craigslist find. I found a manual for it on Ebay gives a breakdown of the gearbox and how to remove it. I've been doing research on oils for it as well. For the oils I use air compressor or 30wt for the gearbox and one shot oiler, for the spindle I use a mineral/machine oil mix in an automatic oiler it needs to be thin. If its cold in the shop like mine is you could go with winter air compressor oil in the gearbox. I don't know if you've found out all the things on the machine yet, but there is a drain on the right side of the machine that should be emptied every so often. While the gears are all spinning some oil gets flung and drains off into that separate compartment. Also there is a pressure plate slip clutch with spring fingers in the rear of the machine that might need to be tightened if left and right travel ever feels like its slipping. Also The belts in the back need to be very clean, mine has some oil leaks in the one shot lines and I had to put a new belt on the motor and make sure the spindle belt was clean because that is a long belt that I don't want to replace. Hope that's not too much info. Got to keep these old machines running.

Fregoe, not too much info at all. I have noticed a bit of slip, particularly running in the cold, on the x feed. The spindle belt is a bit greasy, I have been meaning to get in there and try to wipe the belt cleaner as well as the pulleys. I will check that slip clutch when I do that. Thanks for commenting!
Think I'll be insulating in early March, hopefully I won't have to deal with my machines under 50f ever again! It's a pain in the ass for sure.

100 SUS oils for the spindle
400 SUS oils for the ways

I've run 100 on my ways on my abrasive 1 1/2

Oooooohhhh, Billet work! Pretty sure you need a real space age machine for that. Or some education. Try searching for "billet" and "practical machinist". Do some reading if you want to be taken seriously here.

My boss still says billet.

Though Damascus is forged. . . .

Huh, I was reading back over this thread and saw those last couple of comments...

Billet, so what? That's what 99% of bladesmiths call an unfinished chunk of pattern welded steel.
Sue me! If I want to be "taken seriously" here, hopefully that can be accomplished by posting about machines that I have, with respectful questions, and accurately depicting how much I know (about machining, virtually nothing). If not, then I'm not gonna lose sleep over it.

It's similar to how people always get hung up on correct use of the term "damascus steel."
Yes, we know the original dendritic crucible steel is not what we make today. Language changes, and so does common acceptance of terms within industries.

Thanks for your input on this machine again, guys- I finally got a manual for it today! I've been running it, and have it set up with coolant now too. Not a grinder hand yet, but slowly getting there...

I was a dumb gorilla and overtightened, then broke one of the cross-feed adjustment stops. I took it apart, then noticed the other one had been shop-made by someone in the past as well. I think my lathe-turned replacement part to have been a nicer job than the old repair by whoever, to the other one.

spindle oil can drain from bearings and can even get gummy in cold use.. do jog start a number of times. Don't think I would run the spindle at -10. A small lite bulb and a cover box might warm up the spindle.