Added Flood Coolant To 1943 Reid Grinder w/ Shop Made Containment Area
After countless hours searching PM forum for dust control ideas I caved & build a flood coolant system for my grinder. I was having a hard time committing to this project at first; on one hand users suggested that for optimum dust control you need flood coolant, and on the other hand the general consensus was if you don't use the grinder very often just grind dry because of the hassle with rancid coolant, disposal, etc.
Unfortunately due to limited shop space my grinder is located 3 feet to the right of my Bridgeport (couldn't find a worse spot right?) I tried covering my mill as well as separating the two with a shower curtain yet dust still got everywhere.
You may notice that the aluminum coolant shield isn't actually mounted to the grinder, it merely sits on it. I notched the two end plates so it fits in the trough, I then used flexible PVC strips as a drip edge allowing the coolant to run off on to the table. I chose the removable design for cleaning & flexibility if I get a job with parts too big to fit inside.
My only problem now is finding a coolant, I only grind once or twice a month. I toyed with the idea of going synthetic to eliminate the rancid part, but the reviews aren't so hot and it's expensive. My other option is of course regular ole' soluble oil coolant, just mix a batch (1-2 gal) and pitch it when I'm done. The only problem with that is the pain to dispose of it. I've been doing some research on biodegradable & environmentally friendly coolants with the hope I can get one that's easier to dispose of. If anyone has suggestions please let me know.
Nice neat job. Good work.
Originally Posted by LFEngineering
Would you consider mist coolant? I use a Noga mist unit on a manual 6X12 and have found it to do a good job if I run it with a fairly genrous mist (compared to how I use it on my lathe) when grinding to a knife edge or small parts that don't seem to be able to disapate the heat or if grinding something that has to be kept at a very constant temp. I just use a synthetic additive which does a good job of rust inhibition. If I keep my stone sharp, this setup has worked very well and by itself really cuts down on flying grit. I hated to setup full flood due the problems of coolant containment. Even run "rich" the actual coolant consumed per hour is quite low---a half pint maybe a little more. It is so cheap that I really have not checked closely.
Very nice fabrication. You have motivated me to do the same with my Harig.
Nice job on the splash pan. I like the fact that it's easily removable. Soluble oil mix will go rancid fairly quick if left still, but if you can aerate it, it'll last quite a while before you notice any rancid odor from it. I've heard of people putting aerators from fish tanks in a coolant tank before, but I'm leery of that idea. If you run a compressor fairly often, a simple low pressure (regulated 5-10 psi?) bleed off could be fabbed up with some flexible air hose & a manifold made out of pvc pipe to sit in the tank. Seems like it would work well. Add a cheap oil skimmer to clean off any oil & floaties, and the fact of evaporation & re-topping the water content, and I don't see why the coolant wouldn't last many months before needing much attention at all.
Great job! I need to make something like that for my old ABBA grinder too. Grinding dry and using a spray bottle is really a pain.
I use an additive in the cutting fluid on my milling machine that keeps the stuff from goin rancid. It's sold by the same company that makes the water soluabe oil and really works great. Only a bottle cap full for the whole tank once a year.
Care to share the company and additive with us?
Originally Posted by Kevin Wilkins
I use Opta HE 500 from Wisura. Also the additive to prevent bacteria. The company makes a wide range of products including one for grinding applications.
From experience with my J&S grinder, you'll still get a healthy line of muck all over the Bridgeport and any walls in line with the wheel on the left hand side. If you can make up a "motorcycle rear mudguard" type arrangement to fit on the left side of the wheel guard and come down to within 1/4"-1/2" of the work, you'll divert a lot of the crap that will otherwise sail over the guards.
That's really nice!
I added a OE-style coolant system / dust collector unit to my dad's Kent surface grinder, some 30 years after the machine was made. The table guard was no longer available, so I asked my next door neighbor (a tinwhacker by trade) if he could make one at work. He did it not as a job for the shop, but as a "personal project", and refused to charge me. He only asked that I let him use my power washer to clean the north side of his house. That was about a year ago and still hasn't used it. What a guy!
These photos are from the installation, we've since added slide-up sides for taller work to reduce the muck splatter that Mark mentioned. That was definitely happening.
From this, which is how it looked when I traded a day of teaching the previous owner how to run his old Citizen F20 machine for the grinder.
Oh, as for coolant I had bought a 5 gallon pail of ValCool VP910, for about $135.00 and mixed it to 8%. It's been in the grinder for a year, and has been turned on only 3 or 5 times. Still as fresh as the day I put it in, and a very good grinding coolant. The ONLY issue with it is that it will slightly discolor the brass bars of the mag chuck if I don't wipe it off. No other staining problem at all.
I get soluble oil B from my shell dealer and it already has the antibacterial additive in it. It can sit around for a year and no problems with smell. Just bought 5 gal and it was about $92.