Free download the Cinci manual for good ideas
Cincinnati Milling Machine Co. - Publication Reprints - Cincinnati #2 Cutter and Tool Grinder Manual | VintageMachinery.org
You can make simple centers with making a weld-mit mock up, keyed to table centers.. then drill and line ream the straight bore for straight shank centers.. centers having a set screw flat..yes you might design a spring end but that is not needed.
look at the cinci tooth finger design and make that..finger should be so it can tooth set above and below center perhaps 1/2 inch.
A long V block.. perhaps 4" long, 1" inch wide V.. made to bolt on and swing on table..locked with a hand protractor setting.. drills and end mill ends done with this.
A simple spin index, with having a drilled hole in base, to be mounted to and angle plate off your table for hand protractor set.. cut a plastic shield to protect grit going into the tube.. good for making specials and counter bores..You spin the tool round, then back off clearances and OD margins.
Many think a grinding fixture need be high precision but that is not true.. one needs to be such that the tool can be rotated to the next tooth accurately.. almost always the cutter needs to be tweaked a little to get precise square or angle... having dead accuracy in the device is handy but not needed.
Yes I have near dead-on devices but have learned the tool is king not the device.
One thing the Cincy had was a turning wheel head(rotating at the base not tilting)..turning allowed the wheel arc edge to provide a clearance angle so tool holding devices did not have to provide clearance with tilting..don't know if you have that..Tilting a centers held tool (such as a reamer or the like)below center gives clearance..
Same with a mill cutter/or end mill .. a down angle tooth tilt (rotate) provide clearance even with having no tilt in the holding device. You tilt the lip down to get clearance...then bump off desired protractor-set angle to compound that gives clearance and correct angle. often a half degree to 2*.
*Very often it is better to parked-wheel rub the job to match angle(or 90*) to old grind...because the tool is the master not the machine. Knowing the old tool is 1/2* off you rub test, then turn a half degree from their.
New guys will indicate / jo block / measure to set machine just perfect...to find that correct numbers don't give the correct tool..Yes CNC machines figure that all on the fly and compound tweaking in a snap.
) with limited tooling and no wheels. Although I've googled lots of data on the T&C I cannot find specifications on the wheel bore size for the spindle.
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