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Diamond Dresser's

Volcom7114

Plastic
Joined
Nov 14, 2013
Location
Bedford PA, USA
I'm getting into the "grinding" part of machining. I have a surface grinder and a tool cutter grinder both are going to be wired up this week now that they have been cleaned up and gone over.. So now I have been looking into wheel dresser's and have ordered one for the surface grinder but the wheel dresser for the TCG needs to have a #1 morse taper and I am having troubles finding one and what one to use for it??

Dennis
 
Most diamonds have a 7/16 shank. You may been to get a #1 morse taper holder and then drill a hole in it to accept the diamond?

I have never seen a diamond with a morse taper shank.
 
That doesn't seem to make sense. Why would you not want to use #1 Morse holder that will accept any diamond shank that fits it? I've used more surface grinders than T&C grinders but I've never seen a diamond with a Morse taper shank either. Aside from crush and cluster dressers everything else has been straight shank. Maybe I need to get out more.
 
View attachment 112721View attachment 112722View attachment 112723View attachment 112724View attachment 112725This is the dresser holder that came with the machine. My #1mt shank chuck fits it like a glove here is a link to a place that sells them and I have found them on many other sites also. This isn't an after market holder this is original to the TCG as you can see in the pics.. I'm just not sure what is what when it comes to dresser's I have read a bit on them but as far as what grade or kind I should get for the machine is what I'm not sure about. :) Diamond Tools

Dennis
 
I had thought about setting it up in the mill and drilling it out and running a reamer though it then drill and tap for a set screw but i would really hate to do that to this machine since its all there and in very good shape.. its an Elite AR5-E/ET TCG its in very good shape..
 
Volcom7114, you don't need a special diamond for the T&CG. Most sharpening is going to use the side of a cup wheel or the face of a straight wheel, and any means of holding a straight shank diamond mostly horizontally will work for sides, and either mostly horizontally or mostly vertically will work with faces. "Mostly" because the diamond should be slightly inclined in the direction of wheel surface rotation.

For fancier stuff cutter grinding, you may want a radius/tangent dresser, but these dressers still take standard straight shank diamonds.
 
Thanks that's what I was looking for:) also I got a bunch of wheels and cups and diamond wheels with this machine and I'm not sure what wheels are for what I noticed most are Norton but as far as what the diff colored wheels are for or their grade I'm lost on so is their any reference online to know? Thanks much everyone and where is a good place to get diamonds and a holder that will work on this machine ( I'm sure ill wipe out a few before learning the right way lol)

Dennis
 
Before you do anything more , do some learning. Seems that you are a long way from needing a diamond at this point. In all that conglomeration of wheels There might have been 3 adapters. Any wheel used regularly needs its own adapter. You need to learn how to read the abrasive code on the wheels. Learn the attachments and what and how they are used. I see a long and dangerous learning curve here. Ideally find someone in this line of work who will let you follow him around , ask questions, and actually give things a try. Back in the day there were 4 year apprenticeships as tool and cutter grinders. There is a reason it was 4 years. I would be kind of shy to try to get all that from a book or the internet in less time.
 
That collection of wheels will probably keep you supplied for some time before needing more. The paper on the wheels is important, not only for safety but also for being able to determine what wheel it is. As the other members have posted, you need to have a ready reference of the grading system used for abrasives. Perhaps print out a sheet and tack it to the wall next to the grinder. I would sort the wheels by whether they have the blotter paper on both sides or not, those that do not will have to be graded when you can tell by looking at the grit/grain, those are unknown and shouldn't be used on critical work until you know how they behave. You also don't want to run any wheel that doesn't have the paper on both sides, not a safe habit. Sort the others according to grit and keep the diamond wheels stored until you need them, they're expensive. All the Al-Ox, carborundum, and cut-off wheels should be handled carefully as they're somewhat fragile. The suggestion to "ring" them all should be regarded as more than just a suggestion. You don't know how they've been handled prior to your ownership and rough handling can lead to a crack/fracture in the wheel. When a wheel gets up to speed or in the middle of a grind the fracture can lead to the wheel exploding, it's a scary thing that gives no warning and can throw chunks right through you. Story from years ago in the same industrial district I worked in was a jig grinder hand came to work, fired up the jig grinder to warm it up to operating temps just like he did every day. The stone wheel had a micro crack in it, exploded, and threw a small chunk of the wheel into his chest. He supposedly was dead before he hit the ground, didn't even finish his first cup of coffee. On a personal note, I have just barely grazed a wheel during set-up, work removal, dressing, etc. and worn the wheel profile in my flesh on more occasions than I'd care to tell. Grinding is not a casual learning curve so do establish safe habits. Can't speak for T&C grinders but the surface grinders have more than a few traps awaiting the unwary. It would be best, as suggested, if you could gain from the experience of someone that's been grinding for years. If that's not possible then reading and asking questions here will pay dividends. Sure you can learn on your own but the first time an expensive piece flies off the chuck (Houston we're launching D-2) and gets ruined you'll hope nobody else was witness to the atrocity. Oh yeah, you'll need to do something about dust control from grinding. You really don't want to be breathing in the copious amounts of particles that grinding generates.
 








 
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