Dressing outside of 4" cup wheel (on Deckel clone)

Hi, I picked up a Deckel SO clone (actually this one G1975 | TM-U3 Universal D BIT Grinder | For Sale Sydney Brisbane Melbourne Perth | Buy Workshop Equipment & Machinery online at machineryhouse.com.au ) quite cheaply, and in very nice condition. I've ordered a couple Al Ox cup wheels but they will be a couple of weeks coming. In the mean time, the Al Ox wheel on the machine is actually hardly worn at all, but it is a little out of round and the machine vibrates - I'm sure it should be smoother. I was thinking of balancing the wheel with some epoxy on the inside, but perhaps dressing the outside of the wheel slightly (< 1/2 mm) would fix it or make balancing easier.
Has anyone got advice on this - proceed or not with dressing? Then balancing?
Cheers
Bob

I would throw that original AlOx wheel as far as I can (in fact: I did) and mount one from a known good manufacturer.
You can get the Cup wheels for the T&C Grinders with an reeinforced outer layer, so the edge does not break down as fast - Tyrolit has such a wheel.

The original wheel seems to be made of dirt from the street and elmers glue, does not hold an edge, breaks down very fast, does not cut very well, ...and as you noticed it does not run true at all

All the years I never had to dress outer diameter of a cupwheel on a single lip cutter. It can be done with the diamond held in a collet and then advanced along the wheel with the fine adjustment, but you are limited to the short travel of the fine adjustment.

You should be able to 'dress' the o.d. of the wheel with a carborundum stick . . . accurate shape is not required, just knock off the high spots and balance should improve. You won't be removing a ton of material so I don't see a problem with attempting to hand dress.

OT:proceed or not with dressing? Then balancing.... no.. Best to dress OD or wait for new wheels.

Agree with Red ['dress' the o.d. of the wheel with a carborundum stick.]

And also [It can be done with the diamond held in a collet and then advanced along the wheel with the fine adjustment, but you are limited to the short travel of the fine adjustment.]

This..If it fits the mount reasonably tight say better than perhaps .004" or so... yes you can shim it to get down to .002 or so...that is needed if you intend to take it off and replace it.

also an abrasive wheel dresser like a cracked jack jr, a Norbide stick, a piece of broken diamond wheel, Some green wheels will work but not all...

I used to dress the OD and the ID of cup wheels for better finish. yes I marked them to a line on the mount.. and the mount to a line on the spindle nose..

Sloppy ID then just about any thing can make a shim even a copy paper sheet cut to width or a stack of perhaps 4 thicknesses of paper.or a masking tape like the low stick kind..

I think a dust mask is good to use with such a grinder...yes and safety glasses.

Just a top-bump finger can tend to bend with top rake angle of cutter...good to have also a finger with a notch so the longer leg can over lap the OD and the shorter leg can be the tooth rest.

Be sure the wheel has a blotter in and out.. yes you can make same with the likes of a cereal box cardboard and glue it with a bit of Emers glue...

Or just loosen the mounting hub a tad and indicate in the wheel OD.
Bob

OT Bob: [Or just loosen the mounting hub a tad and indicate in the wheel OD.
Bob]

Agree that is worth a try..may be all you need..tape a shim under indicator point to save the point from a flat.

Thanks everyone for the suggestions. I think Stefan is right (made from dirt and elmers ) - toss it. There was no play on the spindle. I did take a bit off the outside and balance with the addition of some blu-tak (worked quite well in fact). But the wheel is just crap. I will try and find the Tyrolit wheel if I can locally - otherwise waiting for Norton wheels (still ).
Bob

Thanks Stefan. Yes - dirt and elmers. Will toss and source something decent. BTW love your videos!
Bob

There is something that puzzles me about the use of these grinders. I always see them set up with a wide diamond cup-wheel that has but a narrow edge and face. Being further to the right of the spindle means more run-out - and there is less travel if you are trying to move the tool holder to the right. What is the advantage?

An old thread was restored.

A wide diamond cup wheel with a narrow edge usually traves across the part and the narrow edge follows the axis of the machine. Often the wheel edge is dressed or wears into being near perfect running. often an operator will set the cup wheel back on to a line-up mark so taking it off and back on it will still rue as dressed.

An aluminum oxide wheel is touched with a dressing stick so the RPM rotation quickly dresses the wheel edge to run true.

Non-dressable wheels, like the face of a plate-mounted wheel is shimmed at the backside to make them run .oo2 or better at the first start/use.

Diamond type 1 (straight) wheels are indicated to make a new wheel run .002 or better..and then usually they are dressed with a brake dresser.

If you mount a plate mounted, or a straight (surface grinder typ) .005 out of round or out of flat thenlikely you will run out of doamomd at one single place, so wasiing .005 of diamomd life.