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Effects of wheel speed

Adam Daake

Aluminum
Joined
Jan 26, 2007
Location
Nebraska
I know this has been posted before but can't find it. What are the the effect of wheel speed on the apparent hardness of the wheel. I an just about ready to fire up my royal oak tool grinder. I have a vfd for it but thinking about running it on my phase converter to get it running. I am about done with my large drill grinding fixture 3/4 to 2-1/4, will there be any advantage to controlling wheel speed. I just bought 7x1 baystate wheels 9a46j8v52 on ebay.
Thank you for any input.
 
The frequency of the ac sine wave is proportional to your rpm. Most vfds can be programed to show rpm. So as long as i don't go over rated rpm at full wheel diameter it is a mute point.
How will you know? Does the machine have a tachometer? Will you check each time with a hand held?
 
Ability to increase speed allows staying with the proper sfm of the wheel as the wheel gets smaller. As the wheel gets smaller it can stand more rpm safely.

Uh, No! The diameter does not mean you can run faster. The manufacturer based that on bond strength and structure of the wheel. They could make wheels for faster speeds and do but that wheel is for that speed regardless of wear. Do not fall into the HSM trap of thinking you can run a wheel down to the blotters because you have a VFD.
 
Tdmidget understand your concern. I am not a rank amateur I fully understand the dangers of exploding wheels and am not going to going to run the wheel past its rated rpm. I have no reason to run the wheel down to the blotter as it would be a safety hazard and scene of false economy to do so.
 
Along the same lines, I had a question or two:

1: adversely like on our ID grinder or od grinder, what are the effects of turning the workpiece faster/slower....as the wheel speed doesn't change (although diameter does...so keep that in mind)

2: Is there a chart somewhere that tells the difference in wheels....some are 32I, 60K...100 I don't quite have a grasp on which wheels will work better and what the difference is in the wheels. My id grinder wheels just say 56 or 60 grit (and then we have pink ones).....but surface grinder wheels for instance say 32I or K,etc
 
The numbers refer to the grit size of the abrasive, the letters refer to the bond strength holding the abrasive together.
Coarser grits will leave a rougher finish and vice versa, and fine grits are much better at holding a small radius or sharp edge or similar for form grinding. Having said that, I don't ever use much more than a 46 as a standard wheel on my surface grinder, though I have this in several grades of abrasive.

As far as bond goes, an H/I/J/K is a medium strength bond that again works well for anything that I grind, from hardened tool steel (except D2) to soft mild steel, but again I have different abrasive grade wheels to choose from. The lower the bond is the 'softer' the wheel is, as it allows the abrasive to break away as it wears and expose fresh grit, and the stronger the bond (higher letter) the 'harder' the wheel will be.
 
Of course wheel diameter affects the max speed it can run at. A 3' dia. wheel will be rated at a much lower max RPM than a 7" wheel. They are made of the same stuff! The only difference is diameter. The larger the wheel the more stress being applied by centrifugal force at a given RPM. Aluminum oxide, vitrified wheels are usually rated to run at about 6,000 feet/min. safely, no matter what size. Which works out to about 3500 RPM for a 7" wheel, 2000 RPM for a 12", and 660 RPM for a 36" wheel. I'm not saying these numbers are the Max. RPM, This is where they will comfortably run. Max RPM is usually a little higher. I'm NOT advocating running a new wheel at anything above the stated Max. RPM, That is foolishness! However as a wheel wears you certainly can increase RPM to maintain original surface speed, and hardness, without a problem.
 
1: adversely like on our ID grinder or od grinder, what are the effects of turning the workpiece faster/slower....as the wheel speed doesn't change (although diameter does...so keep that in mind)


The grains in a grinding wheel are teeth or flutes in your milling cutter.
Difference being that if you can get the dull grains to go away sharp ones will take on the job.
It is load per grain that makes a wheel act soft or hard. Sometimes called "unit loading".
Not enough load and they dull down instead of leaving the wheel, now their neighbors get in on the action reducing the load per guy even farther.
Soon everybody is in the cut and there is not enough oomph on anyone to persuade even the very dull guys to leave. Now the part burns.

Keep everything else equal and speed up the wheel the "chip load per tooth" decreases and the the wheel acts harder.
Speed up the table traverse or rotation speed and you increase the chip load making the wheel act softer.
A very slow dress leaves more grains flat to the world and acts hard.
A real fast dress pass leaves a phonograph pattern. Few grains sticking out top doing the work and acts a lot softer, cuts like crazy until the pattern goes away.

Many tricks to make this happen, lots of ways to do it.
This is why grinding is considered by many as an "art". You develop methods that work for you using the wheels, speeds, feeds, coolant that you like to run.
The wheels that I use might not work for others. I'd never recommend a grade unless all the other parameters were in the ballpark with mine.
Bob
 
Thank you very much! I'm going to print this off so I have it for future ref! I do a lot of grinding, but I'm young and still learning. There are reasons I do things that work, and I'm not sure why they work better but I just do it. I ID grind a lot of chrome and a fast dress seems to work the best. That stuff is nasty to grind. I've still not mastered grinding D2 (say a decent large chunk maybe 5" wide by 10"long)....I can just dust it yes, but when it comes to taking .010 off, I have to dress about every .003. and then i have to take it to within tenths of my finish dim and then dress and lightly kiss the part off flat. Its not economical to change the wheel on our big grinders just for the 2-3 pieces a month of D2, so this works for now.
 
"Its not economical to change the wheel on our big grinders just for the 2-3 pieces a month of D2, so this works for now."

That's a valid point and it shows that you are thinking about things correctly. There are times when you don't have the "right" wheel for a job, and buying one doesn't make sense in a particular situation. Knowing how to make what you have work is a valuable skill.
 
I've still not mastered grinding D2 (say a decent large chunk maybe 5" wide by 10"long)....I can just dust it yes, but when it comes to taking .010 off, I have to dress about every .003. and then i have to take it to within tenths of my finish dim and then dress and lightly kiss the part off flat. Its not economical to change the wheel on our big grinders just for the 2-3 pieces a month of D2, so this works for now.

-Slowing down the wheel (70% IIRC) for grinding D-2 should make it easier with less dressing.
 
"2: Is there a chart somewhere that tells the difference in wheels....some are 32I, 60K...100 I don't quite have a grasp on which wheels will work better and what the difference is in the wheels. My id grinder wheels just say 56 or 60 grit (and then we have pink ones).....but surface grinder wheels for instance say 32I or K,etc"

Here it is for say a Norton 38A46H7V:

38- Proprietary code , usually for the abrasive in the wheel when in the front of the code. Consult the mfg for their recommendations for use.
A- Type of abrasive A= Aluminum Oxide, S=Silicon Carbide, B cubic boron nitride,D= diamond. These get bastardized when you have mixes like aluminum oxide and ceramic (zirconia).
46- grit size- This is the size screen the particles will go through
H= hardness. This is the hardness of the bond, not the abrasive increases alphabetically
7- Structure This is the mount of open space in the wheel and increases numerically.
V- Type of bond, V-vitrified,B- resinoid, E- shellac, S-silicate, R-rubber, M-metal. vitrified is what most know as a grinding wheel. Basically glass with
abrasive grains in it.
__ - anything after the bond is proprietary and usually refers to the bond.

Originally these were intended to make wheels interchangeable and indentifiable but one man's H is another's J and so on.
 
Thanks for all the input guys all really good stuff. Does anybody recommend any good books that cover grinding, grinding wheel selection and tool grinding that showing common setups, for me when it comes to setup a picture is worth a thousand words.

Thanks again
 
Since we had a difference of opinion on increasing wheel speed to compensate for reduced diameter I asked the folks at Norton. Here is the reply:
[FONT=&quot]Thank you for submitting your question about grinding wheel safety. The following sentence from the ANSI safety code will resolve the disagreement. Let us know if we can be of any further help.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]“The number of revolutions per minute (RPM) may be increased as the diameter of a wheel is reduced through wear, provided the original surface feet per minute (SFPM) is never exceeded.” (ANSI B7.1, Section 7.1.1, paragraph 2)

[/FONT][FONT=&quot][email protected]

So it is acceptable. However I would say only for the few who know the wheel speed and do the measurement and calculation.
[/FONT]
 








 
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