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Grinding wheel info

Billyboyr66

Aluminum
Joined
May 14, 2016
I aquired a couple totes full of grinding wheels of all kinds of shapes and sizes and I'm trying to find out some info on a specific one.

The factory it came from had a bunch of big norton grinders and a few surface grinders but none of which that I seen used this grinding wheel.







I thought about making a flange to bolt to it and running it on my bench grinder for odd and ends. The width looks like it could come in handy being so wide.

Anyone know anything about it? I tried to look up the #'s on it but no such luck.
 
ok, I am going to take a stab at this, I think it is for an old carbide grinder since it is a silicon carbide wheel and this would have been set up with the metal backed plate to mount to a pedestal grinder built for these kind of wheels.

I have similar built wheels but much smaller.

Being a 16 grit would it have been used to "rough" tools in??

This wheel is 37 years old, made in May of 1980..........

As long as it "rings" it is safe to use at the rated speed.
 
In Cash we trust (all others use Bitcoin)...

I'd caution that you want to be sure the drive plate is flat and it might be worth checking the mate with a spotting compound as you want to be sure there no "pealing" force from pulling the wheel plate away from the abrasive.

If that was in my shop I'd be tempted to have the grinder drive plate have four drive pins that fit the holes in the wheel plate, but with a large pilot the actual centering feature. Then use a three or four hole bolt circle and large washer with mating holes inside the pilot diameter for retention to help ensure good clamping.

Cash - am I being too cautious? Just bolt through to the existing holes?
 
What exactly did you mean by if it rings? My first thoughts are tapping it with a piece of metal (on the back plate)and rings like a bell meaning it's still solid and not separated anywhere. ??? Am I way off?

I have three of these wheels and all look to be in about the same condition. The only obvious wear is on the face of the stone opposite of the mounting flange. Nothing bad just a little rounded off. Nothing dressing cannot fix.

I like making knives and thought this large face wheel could be beneficial for roughing in full flat grinds and some hollow grinds. I like using higher end tool steels like Pm-m4, d2 etc and their just tough to shape down from thick stock.

I just setup a new to me grinder I found on Craigslist , I'll post pics later but it's a 10" three phase unit that should be more then enough to run this wheel.
 
If I strike a wheel to ring it I use a hard plastic like Delrin, hitting the stone itself, not the backing plate. But you could see if hitting the plate around the bond area gets you any variations. You want to hold the stone in a way that minimizes damping from your hand or another mount to allow it to ring freely so it's easy to listen for the duller sound of a cracked area.
 
I have a very similar wheel on my shelf, I have no idea the age but my guess is from the 80's. We still use them. I will admit though mine is much smaller so not as much of a worry. Thinking about it no way would I run the big one on a machine without proper guarding.
 

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Forgive my ignorance but what would be so scary about the wheel on a grinder? I would defiantly put a shroud around it just in case it decided to come apart while spinning. And It would have a table so the corse stone could not take the metal out of my hand.

I'm more afraid of corse wire wheels on big grinders then any stone wheel. Maybe that's just me though
 
Forgive my ignorance but what would be so scary about the wheel on a grinder? I would defiantly put a shroud around it just in case it decided to come apart while spinning. And It would have a table so the corse stone could not take the metal out of my hand.

I'm more afraid of corse wire wheels on big grinders then any stone wheel. Maybe that's just me though

just that your particular wheel is such a deep cup. If you have the wheel fully guarded this would be good.

I just would caution as well what kind of machine you would be putting on. You would want to be cautious as your hands are not too close.

Just trying to think safe here.
 
QT Cash [that your particular wheel is such a deep cup}

Called a plate mounted wheel.Could be called a plate mounted cup wheel...Like Cash said likely a Larger carbide grinder..We had such a machine think it was a Hammond. Wheel looked much similar but had a wire wrapped at past half way use. One would use it up to the to half use then break the solder and wind the wire off to use the second half of wheel. If it shows a line where a wire was wrapped then it can not be safely used at stated RPM with not having the wire. Looking at the top photo it looks like a wire smooth line going round. if so it would not be safe to use. Yes one could wrap a soft wire , solder it and use the wheel with having a proper wheel guard. *Think I would break it and use the chunks for diamond wheel cleaning.

Think some Blanchard type machines also used such a wheel and it also had a safety wire going around ..

Plate mounted wheels often don't ring. Likely the wheel guard was 1/2" or so thick.. no less than 1/4". Grinding is safe only at the face..OD use would not be safe.
Perhaps safe at 1200 with taking a chance (not recommended).

You might look at that number in the Norton catalog ..perhaps find something.

Just teaching the kids gun safety Saturday.. One safety rule I mentioned "If you see a bullet that looks odd or different don't put it in your gun." The same goes for grinding wheels.

I would ask each kid "Can you tell a gun safety rule" One said "Don't look down the barrel",, Good answer.

A kid that did not know a safety rule I would tell a rule and let them shoot a round...when they got back in line for another shooting they would repeat the rule I told them ..by the end of the day they all could tell a rule or a few.. Yes kids as young a perhaps 3 or 4 and up to perhaps 15 or 16.

One small fry said "Don't shoot the people changing targets."
 








 
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