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07-15-2011, 09:06 AM #1
Home built belt grinder/linisher design: belt backing plate.
I thought rather than hijack the thread on flame hardening 1045, I'd start another on building belt grinders and fitting a backing plate to the belt.
It's my first belt linisher/grinder unit, there are signs of black steel dust deposits in places on the backing plate after a few hours use. I ground the left over piece of backing plate that was hardened and cracked in the middle. I used a zirconium belt and was surprised at how easily it ground and how little it got hot for the rate of material removal.
The backing plate is a bit hard on the belt join and whatever you are grinding so I'm thinking of getting some of that thick graphite sheet to attach to it. The machine originally started out a 12" disc sander but had the belt parts added later and it will already be modified soon to put the spindle shaft on top of the brackets and cut off the top of the column tube to give the contact wheel more clearance when the belt is swung round to horizontal.
There is a bar fitted now behind the top idler to help guard against belt breakages and I have to alter the pulley ratios to slow it down as right now the surface speed of the belt is 109 KPH and the disc periphery is 160 KPH (100 MPH).
Basic layout showing the 8 inch rubber contact wheel at the bottom and the 12" steel disc. The parts
are actually 30 year old hand me downs from a friend cleaning his shop out.They are parts from two
different machines that just happed to fit together without modification. The Idler wheel is his own
casting and design, the long shafted knob is the locking knob and the knob to the rear right is the belt
tracking knob. Only the belt grinder arm and all the steelwork are of my construction.
Detail of the carbon steel adjustable backing plate arrangement.
Front grinding rest and bracket with adjustable angle and clearance.
Last edited by SAG 180; 07-15-2011 at 11:54 AM.
07-15-2011, 09:16 AM #2
Wow, your current belt speeds are Hooting along. Maybe i should go and measure the speed of my Linisher / radius master.
07-15-2011, 09:20 AM #3
07-15-2011, 12:23 PM #4
07-15-2011, 12:42 PM #5
Heller & sons has them for their belt grinders. Believe they come in 3" and 6" widths. Not sure about the lengths, maybe about 15" to 18".
07-15-2011, 12:46 PM #6
I had a piece of planer knife stock probably M2 that I use on my Burr-king. If you bevel the edges on the plate the scarf joint runs smother over the back up.
Or, if practical have the back up off the belt in free run, it will wear the belt and the back up less. Once you apply a little pressure the belt will contact the back up.
07-15-2011, 02:35 PM #7
Steve: I did radius the ends of the plate and it makes a difference, I've yet to run any scarf joint belts on it. The belt set up so it clicks a bit on the plate when I tap it with a finger.
07-15-2011, 07:10 PM #8
How do you like the Radius Master, good / bad.
Sag 180 sorry for diverging the thread a bit. Thanks.
07-16-2011, 12:49 AM #9
Nice beltgrinder but I hope your motor is dustproof.
07-16-2011, 07:42 AM #10
07-16-2011, 07:47 AM #11
Last edited by SAG 180; 07-16-2011 at 03:13 PM.
07-16-2011, 10:15 AM #12
Thanks for the info mate, considering have a go at one. On your question, the Makita hand held belt sanders have a graphite sheet between the sole plate and belt, seems to work well.
07-17-2011, 11:47 PM #13
it is the most useful machine i have in my so-called workshop area. As SAG mentioned the tight radius is a real problem for low grade (economy) belts. The ones i use are "Deer Foss" brand (not sure of the spelling) and i have had absolutely no issues at all with them in regards to the small radii diameters that the 'Master has. As for the bearings, after 6 years of moderate-heavy use (used on almost every project / job) they still spin like new.
Im happy i bought the machine when i did, it made life Easier than cake.
PS: sorry for getting OT /hijacking the thread partly