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Lifting a Brown & Sharp No 13 grinder to get a pallet under it

S

SirRage

Aluminum
Joined
Sep 18, 2016
Hey there,

I'm moving an old Brown & Sharp No 13 grinder this weekend and trying to find online some documentation about where would be a good place to hoist it from. I haven't found anything yet but thought I would ask here. Odds are someone might have run into this problem at one point or another.
 
How old of a grinder?

Warning! My model is the one with the spindle being driven by a belt off the main motor. The Table on that machine is NOT captured and can easily lift off the ways and cause damage! Ask me how I know :(

When I move mine around I take a 6' pinch bar, place it in a recess on the bottom and lever it up using blocks. I also take a strap and tie the table to the ways so it will not move, but not tight enough to damage the oil rollers under the table. You can build a sled like this one pretty easily.

20150104_160610_resized.jpg

This type of sled does not require lifting the machine all at once, as would a pallet. You lift the machine with the pinch bar and blocks until it is high enough to slip the 4x6"s under each side, bolt the skids to the machine and then place it on roller pipes or pick it up with a fork.

On my machine there is not a good way to sling and lift it..
 
Old could be 1870

Maybe its around 1925

2325 lbs

Be very aware table is just sitting there compliments of gravity and absolutely nothing else

I helped break a member's table by not paying attention


SirRage said:
Hey there,

I'm moving an old Brown & Sharp No 13 grinder this weekend and trying to find online some documentation about where would be a good place to hoist it from. I haven't found anything yet but thought I would ask here. Odds are someone might have run into this problem at one point or another.
Click to expand...
 
Thanks for the advice about the table being held in by gravity. I would not have known!
 
Wheel head, wheel head column and the cross V saddle are lightly held so should never be considered for lifting..
The out ward flairs of the base casting (below the table).. for two chain wraps.. then perhaps two chains with hooks going to the hole at the back of the casting.. seems I saw a lifting plan but it is not in my 13 manual..

Bring wheel column close to table ,, center the table with shift locks to center. guess I would lower wheel a bit and run a couple ropes down help the wheel head column from rocking or tipping..

Yes that table and many grinder can simply slide off..Saw one with mag chuck along 8 Mile Road one day..I left it there hoping owner would come back.

easy to use pinch bar to lower and roll it about the shop on pipes. better to pinch with 2x4x 6" stubs.. bricks can break it two PDQ.

Good advice from swatkins: tie the table to the ways so it will not slide.
 
The manual for your machine shows how to rig it with ropes one around the base in the front one around the back, i moved mine this way and it worked great, unfortunatly i dont have time to dig up the manual showing this but maybe you can find it online.
Mike
 
Call me crazy but I just assume any table is gravity held especially grinders because even those with power feed are not usually too secure. Better safe than OOPS.
 
Tables that run on dovetails are not able to just fall off like the top of his #13 is.

I would never try to lift my grinder by slinging it, it's just too damn easy to use a pinch bar and blocks. You also don't have to hoist it again to get the pallet out when you are finished moving it. By building the structure shown in my picture you can easily pick it up with a forklift and easily dismantle the sled once in position.

Now Bridgeports, horizontals and Do-all saws are a different mater as they all have either lifting rings built in or overarms to sling to without danger to controls.

Of course I still have that pucker factor when I lift them wondering if everything is going to hold together... Like this guy :(
 
Brown and sharpe shows the slinging method, the reason I slung mine was I needed to walk it through a man door, by hanging it off the forklift it was possible to pivot it through a man door.
 
Qt Sweetkins : it's just too damn easy to use a pinch bar and blocks.
Pinching can also be much safer..

Post #13
The sling at the back assumes all the bolts are in and the cross slide will not come loose...I would put two hooks at the rear in the base casting cut outs to assure the two under lip bars would not be a problem ...and use chains or a 1" new rope. Putting in the wrong knots and have to cut your rope.

Yes one could check the bolts at the under-lip bars if hoisting as in the photo. Later machines you may have to take off the sheet metal cover..

I would pinch bar it to the pallet.
 
Timely post, SirRage. Thanks everyone for the replies. Just purchased a B&S #13 on Saturday and now I know how to pick it up before I pick it up.

One question though. Should I remove the work head from the table before transporting it? Will the weight of the work head damage the ways? It's going to be a 200 mile move.

John
 
I ended up not lifting it. Instead I used a pinch bar to get some blocks under it then used a tow jack to get it though enough to get 4x4 under it. 4x6 would have been better. Also, move the colum back as far as it will go BEFORE trying to lift it with either a pallet jack or joist. The machine is very front heavy so it will want to tip in that direction unless you can get the weight to center.

I moved mine from the shop all the way to the enterence of the garage, but by that point I needed to return the equipment. I'll move it again in afew days to get it into the garage. Right now it's wrapped up in a bag, with a dehumidifer bucket thing that pulls moisture out of the air. Not what I wanted, but best I could do. I only budged one day to move it.

In the end, I think I would higher a rigger to move this if I were to do it again. It's a little beyond my skill level to do this on my own.

Because I had to rent absolutly everything to do this, it came out to $450 for me to do do the job myself. $160 for the pallet jack, trailer and tow jack. $230 for the truck to tow it, and $50 for fule. That end price was within $150 or a rigger doing the same job.
 
When I have had to store things outside, I used a moving blanket with a tarp on top, and a 25 Watt lightbulb somewhere down low or on top of the table, depending on the machine.
The desiccant bag is a good idea of course



Bernie
 
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