Pedestal Grinder Tool Rest Gap

I know the maximum distance is 1/8" from the wheel for your usual wheel, but for wire and buffing wheels, do you have to take any extra steps due to the fact that the work will push further into the wheel because it's made of a softer material?

I'm not sure I understand your query, but when using a wire wheel or buffing wheel on a grinder, the tool rest should be removed entirely or you risk trapping your work piece between the rotating wheel and the rest.

steve-l said:

I'm not sure I understand your query, but when using a wire wheel or buffing wheel on a grinder, the tool rest should be removed entirely or you risk trapping your work piece between the rotating wheel and the rest.

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In production buffing, two companies, one AS the guy 8 hours on the wheel, the other where two full-timers were on my staff, you do not even want the "infrastructure" that mounts the toolrest in the work zone at all.

Ordinarily, one does not even utilize the same sort of motor and spindle shape for buffs and brushes as for grinding. Grinders are usually close-coupled to their bearings which are tight to the drive motor. Buffs are run on a different type of machine with elongated shaft and bearing housings. The greater stick-out is so there is room for larger dust collector capture area and to still clear the operator's hands and angle the part. Some grinders need this, too, and cheaply made is not good. They need to be precisely made and stout enough to stay that way with their heavy wheels and lack of forgiveness.

Not having that extra clearance ups your risks. Be SUPER careful if you do not have it, because even with the sharp metal of toolrest and its mount removed, you still have a "pinch" zone. Better to go and buy a proper spindle if you can do.

These are all "hobby grade", not even on the same continent as an industrial buffer, but neither do they cost much. The top two on the list have the better shape. Extended shafts that are NOT provided with outboard support and shrouding (3 and 6 on the list) are riskier:

The Best Benchtop Buffer of 218 – Your Garage Guy

Industrial grade polishing gear start with cheap Baldor's and work UP, not down.

Those want expert assessment of what is to be done before making a purchase decision. They are not at all cheap.

Steve nailed it and here is a rue to back it up..

osha.oregon.gov/OSHARules/interps/im-94-25.pdf
Wire wheels should have at least an upper wheel cover, if cleaning large items such as axes or shovels and a full wheel cover as required for abrasive wheels with a tongue guard if doing other types of cleaning or polishing work. Wire wheel guard housings should not be equipped with tool rests. Injury records associated ...

Many shops avoid even the upper cover that is much for wire and dust containment,..slamming into a cover is a good way to lose a finger or an arm.

A undressed grinding wheel can also be dangerous so when a grinding wheel is change it should be dressed at that time....

Wire and brush wheels use should have special instruction with motor off and showing safe techniques..People who can't/refuse to do the drill , or often fail to pay attention should not be allowed around wire or buffers..

Be sure to wear safety glasses and a face shield when running a wire wheel. Also do not use a wheel that is missing wires. Once they start to show wear, the wires get loose anf fly out. Also wear leather welding gloves. As Steve said remove the rest. Be sure to buy a good wheel too.

and play with the work for a time (With The Power Off) to see how it may be held and worked so going in a down going direction.The first time the part is held in an up position to the wheel direction so the wheel or brush can catch the part it may go flying along with fingers and arms..


Re:[A undressed grinding wheel can also be dangerous so when a grinding wheel is change it should be dressed at that time} We had guy who liked to not follow the drill (always dress the changed wheel).
I was running off a hot (down transfer line) machine part and went to a bench grinder to break the edges...Sure enough it was a re-mounted and not dressed wheel by that guy..when I touched the part the out-wheel caught and slammed my little finger to an edge of the dust guard and so lost about 3/32" of that finger...I know should have used a file /should have felt the wheel for true..but in a hurry being stupid...