Recommended coolant for surface grinder
Well for the time being I have a surface grinder in the shop and it has a coolant tank and pump. I was wondering what kind of coolant works best on a manual surface grinder? I have a soluable oil that I use in my machine tools but I am not sure if that will be best for a surface grinder. Of course as a job shop I will be working with all kinds of materials. Mostly tool steel or invar.
Anyone want to step up and make a recommendation? I currently use a Castor oil soluable in my machine tools.
I would prefer something I can get in a gallon jug.
Anyplace to get a Harig way lube, other than Harig? Cant get them to answer my voicemail or get the email to work for some reason.
re: coolant. Soluble oil will work. However for some reason it seems to go bad rapidly in grinding machines. There are synthetic grinding coolants that are clear, although a blue or green color. It is nice to see your workpiece and they last longer in my experience.
Waylube? Ask your oil distributor for an equivalent.
For just general surface grinding you will want to go with a Full Synthetic.
I assume you have a small system so you can buy in 5 gal pails.
Fuchs, Carstol, Mobil are all good coolants.
Get what you can easily buy from a local distributor.
When you are not running the machine have an airline bubble air into your sump to break the surface and keep it from stinking.
Try to cycle the coolant at least every other day. Otherwise it would probably start to smell.
Waylube-Mobil vacouline products are what you want to use.
I agree. Use synthetic. It will keep the grinding wheel from loading up better than the soluble oil will. I worked in a grind shop for about 15 years. We ran synthetic exclusively. We never had an odor problem. Our tanks ranged from 15 gallons to 300 gallons. The coolant tanks did need topped off frequently, especially during the summer.
The synthetic does not have the lubrication and rust prevention qualities that the soluble oil has. When the synthetic dries it leaves a sticky residue. It is hard on painted and bare metal surfaces. The paint on the tops of all of our control cabinets had lifted (we were not diligent about keeping them clean) and if there was some bare metal in the shop that had not been touched in a while, it was sticky and rusty.
Same problem here too, here we use IPOL 1040 Synthetic Coolant, amazing stuff for Grinding, but leaves behind sticky stuff on machine and instruments get jammed. I spray WD-40 regularly on my micrometers and Plunger Dials to prevent Jams. But cleaning up the machine is such a tedious work.
Thank you all for your inputs.
We use full synthetic oil for grinding, also we use it for turning and milling.
Is it good enough for that operations too or we have to remove to mineral oil for milling and turning operations?
Fuchs Lubricants has an excellent coolant for surface grinding, Ecocool SYN 935. It's a full synthetic. It is stable in hard water & has no borates...therefore does not leave behind the sticky residue. Good for ferrous and non ferrous metals. Product can even be used for steel roll forming as well.
Use distilled water instead of tap water when using soluble oil. Distilled water has no minerals and this prevents microbe growth.
I solved my workshop "monday morning fish-stink" that way.
Helps especially, when the machine usage is infrequent.
IMHO the price penalty is not high for toolroom use. It costs about 5 cents per litre in Estland, do not know, how it is in USA.
Water treatment companies use a lot of distilled water and I buy my stuff from there. But it is not expensive even in paint and general building-material shops.