Wheel recommendations for surface grinding 316SS

Hi All:
I've got a big job coming up that will involve surface grinding 316L stainless steel plates 5/16 x 1 1/4 x 6".
I've got a hydraulic wet grinder 3420 RPM that takes 8" x 3/4" wheels.
I'm looking for a wheel recommendation from all who have experience surface grinding this material.
Thanks in advance!
Cheers


Marcus
Implant Mechanix • Design & Innovation > HOME
www.vancouverwireedm.com

I would go with a friable 38A wheel, coarse and soft grade to start. 46 grit G hardness.

With being non magnetic this stuff can be a bear to grind.

You can always use the double sided tape trick to hold them down if needed.

Hi Cash:
Thank you very much for the recommendation; I appreciate it.
That corresponds well with what I've been reading.
Interestingly I've also been advised to use Norton black silicon carbide 46 grit,and J or softer but I've never tried it.
Do you have any experience with that wheel grade on 300 series stainless?
Any comments positive or negative?

With regard to holding it down, I have double sided counterbored holes in the waste stock so I'm going to bolt the bars onto a mild steel fixture plate.
I was going to mill them as close as I dare to go (maybe +.001" per side) and just kiss them on the grinder rather than hand sand them.
I need to hold thickness within 0.0005", flatness within 0.001" and finish 32 microinch or better.
The customer wants the lay to run across the bars; that's why I hope to grind them instead of just milling them finished.
Fortunately they're not very long, they are decently thick, and the preferred lay works to my advantage.
Wish me luck!
Cheers

Marcus
Implant Mechanix • Design & Innovation > HOME
www.vancouverwireedm.com

My recommendation lines up with Cash. Use a sharp diamond to dress and re dress often as the material will gum up your wheel. Be aggressive with dressing speed and depth of dress. The right dressing technique is half the battle. We cylindrical and surface grind a lot of 304. No magic shortcuts. Patience.

I have used green silicon carbide, but for grinding carbide.

As long as the black silicon carbide would be very coarse and an open structure it may work.

Grinding stainless is tough, but then add in the 300 series being non magnetic it even gets tougher. Whatever trick you can find and it works for you. Stick with it!

If the parts don't behave well in the center try a couple of drops of super glue in the middle, and/or a .0005 shim under the very ends of the part outside of the bolts. Sometimes that long of a span can be tricky.