WTB Tool & Cutter Grinder

I'm a small shop and looking to add a Tool & Cutter Grinder. I want to be able to grind from about 1/4 inch end mills up to about 6" face mills. Back in the day when everything was manual was there a T&C grinder that was considered the go to machine for tool room use? The other thing I want to be able to do is grind a tapered end mill and put a radius on the corner.

On Edit:
I didn't phrase my question very well. I'm not looking for a specific grinder to buy but rather what machines should I be looking for.

Here is an interesting Cincy #2, a good machine for cutter work but check to see it has end mill grinding fixtures.
Small end mills (1/4 and 3/8) are difficult with not having an air spindle. Yes they can be done.
Taper end mills are difficult with not having a work head. Grinding face mills drills and reamers is a snap. Check votage.
Tool & cutter grinder

Ko lee is an ok machine with a small foot print.

michiganbuck said:

Here is an interesting Cincy #2, a good machine for cutter work but check to see it has end mill grinding fixtures.
Small end mills (1/4 and 3/8) are difficult with not having an air spindle. Yes they can be done.
Taper end mills are difficult with not having a work head. Grinding face mills drills and reamers is a snap. Check votage.
Tool & cutter grinder

Ko lee is an ok machine with a small foot print.

Click to expand...

My thought is something along the lines of what you posted. The first thing I would get would be a Weldon air-bearing fixture. That would take care of most end mills. Then I would need to find some way to put a radius on the corner of a square or tapered end mill.

Weldon or the like is very good for OD work, work head for ends.
Radius can be done with dressing it into the wheel, grind at a clearance, then back off by hand watching for even land.
or with a swing fixture.
Not uncommon in old days to put on a series of flats then hand roll the radius. Some good cutter shops made ball nose with a series of flats and then a hand roll, oftn just as good as a fixture held job for a fraction corner.
Figure you might have $3,000+ or so into a cutter grinding set-up. How much work do you send out?
Actually most cutter grinding shops are a bargain. but you can save big bucks if needing specials and can make your own.

Some guys get along with a bench top like a Deckel but I have never used one so cant say

*free download the Cincy (#1 or # 2) hand book for a lot of good grinding ideas.

Not that bad an idea to buy radius end mills then make them square-end with first end sharpening. Not a bad idea to cut off ends and resharpen ends only to retain OD size.
Good to post a good photo of end mill ends so you get used to making a proper end gash.

Many work heads, even new ones will run out a bit so good to place a line up mark on the head and on the arbor then grind the arbor hub in place. that so you can take it out and place back in with near zero run-out.

Often it is good to spin or circle grind the cutter then back off clearance to just wipe out the flat grind...This because it is difficult the finger exactly the same and flutes may not be perfect from new or last grind.

It is often good to circle grind the taper then adjust to get a straight land with the clearance grind..

Free download Cini handbook. Great ideas and set-ups the can be used for any TC grinder.
Cincinnati Milling Machine Co. - Publication Reprints - Cincinnati #2 Cutter and Tool Grinder Manual | VintageMachinery.org

Just click on book and it will load PDF book to your computer then save as Cinci#2 TC grinder.

Older cinci Tc grinders did not have a tilt wheel head so one would rotate the wheel head so the arc of the wheel would give desired clearance angle.. also the cutter would be turned above or below center for clearance angle...very easy once you got the feel for that. For corner bevel you tilt and roll to get axial and radial clearance.

Good trick is to just hold the cutter to the parked wheel and think how to set the machine to make the grind. often you just bump the table to catch/match same angle and clearance.

Understand page 62(roughly wheel dia x cutter dia x desired clearance x 8.5 = wheel rise or drop below center.(or cutter rotate)
so if using the flat face of a cup wheel: cutter dia x desires clearance clearance x 8,5 = tooth drop = rise (or drop) from center position.
I just x 9 as one can do that in your head.