What's new
What's new

Cost of 3d printing a smallish part ?

Spud

Diamond
Joined
Jan 12, 2006
Location
Brookfield, Wisconsin
Any idea what it costs to 3d print a small part? Part needs to be dimensionally a carbon copy of the original.
Note: Part does not need to be in metal, because it will just be used as a master to make a mold for casting.

 
That's a pretty big small part ;)

I should think most of the cost will be in developing the model rather than running the printer. If you can develop the model yourself, your cost to have one printed will be much lower.

As this will be a mold master, it will need to be modified from the original for draft and finish-machining allowance. Also the through-hole will probably be better done entirely as a machining op, unless the material is precious.

Regards.

Mike
 
Any idea what it costs to 3d print a small part? Part needs to be dimensionally a carbon copy of the original.
Note: Part does not need to be in metal, because it will just be used as a master to make a mold for casting.

If you have your model drawn up as a solid CAD file, you can upload it to Shapeways - Make, buy, and sell products with 3D Printing and their software will tell you the price based on volume of the model in cm3, + $1.50 post processing and $6 shipping.

The cheapest way to get this built would be to make it from the strong & flexible plastic using the EOS-P machines they have. You can have all the holes and the part built as is as this process uses the unsintered powder to support the model. $1.40 per cm3.

The Stratasys printer machine they have uses support structures when the model is built, but the finished plastic model itself is much more rigid material. $3 per cm3.

Looks like Shapeways is running a year end special right now of 20% off if you order the model before Dec 31st.

1 cubic inch = 16.4 cm3

I bought a stainless steel part from Shapeways a few months back to compare it to the machines we have at work. Turnaround time was 2 weeks and the part looked awesome.

3D Printing Materials on Shapeways
 
In general most of the 3d printed parts I have seen suck as foundry patterns. They tend to be too rough for patterns and the material does not fill or sand well. You would be better talking to a patterns shop and having them CNC machine it for you or build it on the bench for you out of wood or model board.

Often on a small pattern like that building cope and drag boards with boxes is almost as big a part of the job as making the pattern. Mounting on a matchplate is less work but is still something that needs to be done. The price for mounting will be less if they are making the pattern than if you give them a 3d printed part.

It is ridiculous how much the media have over hyped the 3d printing thing.
 
DITTO, DITTO, DITTO. Hours of work filling the surface with Bondo and then all you have is a master, somebody still has to make the pattern itself. Just make your 3D model and let a pattern shop mill it or build it out of wood. They can probably do it right on the board. They will want to core that hole out some, it's pretty big.

If all you want is one part, the foundry can clay up your piece to restore the draft and make a mold that way. If you want to spend real money they can print the mold in plaster of Paris and pour into it. But basically like Pattnmaker sez, 3D printing is way overrated. Thirty years ago that part would've been in sand in about a day, using a band saw, a disc sander, a shrink rule and a pencil. Anyway, before you science it to death, take it to a foundry and let somebody look at it.
 
I bought a stainless steel part from Shapeways a few months back to compare it to the machines we have at work. Turnaround time was 2 weeks and the part looked awesome.

That price you mention is for non metallic material ? So a Stainless Steel part = seletive laser sintering method??
How much does it cost for Shapeways to print the part in metal?

--
In a related note, any idea of cost for having this 3d scanned to generate a file for 3d printing or CNC machining from raw stock?
 
That price you mention is for non metallic material ? So a Stainless Steel part = seletive laser sintering method??
How much does it cost for Shapeways to print the part in metal?

--
In a related note, any idea of cost for having this 3d scanned to generate a file for 3d printing or CNC machining from raw stock?

How precise does the finished part need to be? With a pair of calipers and 15 minutes anyone reasonably proficient with CAD could build you a model to make a casting.
 
That price you mention is for non metallic material ? So a Stainless Steel part = seletive laser sintering method??
How much does it cost for Shapeways to print the part in metal?
Click the link. All your questions will be answered there.
 
Dimensionally a carbon copy of the original part.

It isn't possible to get a carbon copy of your part. The extra zeros of precision will add exponential costs to your project (and you wouldn't be able to inspect it anyway). So you need to have a tolerance that you want your model produced to (think fit, form, function). If it's +/- .002'' with exception of the machined surfaces I'd guess it would be around ~5 hours of work at a fairly high shop rate. There's tons of companies that offer this kind of service. I'd expect to be at around $500-$1000 for a model and a blueprint. Then you'll need a casting model, etc.
 
I used Siemens Unigraphics on my lunch break to sketch that up from your pictures. I would do it in Solidworks probably as that is the program I own and it seems to be a more universal format. I usually send a native file model, a .stp model and a drawing to customers of mine.
 
you can make an exact identical part of the one you have pictured in plastic for less than fifty bucks, call Alumilite and ask about their silicone rubber and urethane plastic mold kits......works great and is easy to use and it will show every surface detail....lots of shop uses for this stuff and MUCH....MUCH cheaper than these newfangled...currently overpriced.. "easy bake ovens'. (famous last words.. probably...wish I had bought some "internet" stock back in 80's)
 
you can make an exact identical part of the one you have pictured in plastic for less than fifty bucks, call Alumilite and ask about their silicone rubber and urethane plastic mold kits......works great and is easy to use and it will show every surface detail....lots of shop uses for this stuff and MUCH....MUCH cheaper than these newfangled...currently overpriced.. "easy bake ovens'. (famous last words.. probably...wish I had bought some "internet" stock back in 80's)

Someone else mentioned Silicone casting in another thread. I'll give your suggestion a shot.

What sort of parts did you guys make molds for?
Which Alumilite offering gives the most accurate mold, with least shrinkage?
Any chance the silicone might damage or stick to the original part?

Thanks
 
If it gets sand cast that part will need a core. If you pad out the machined parts a good sand molder should be able to use it as a pattern. A standard test for iron molders was to cast a tea cup, saucer, and spoon in one piece using the real items as a pattern. The molder carves down to the pattern where odd parting lines are needed and uses parting compound (walnut shell powder, if I remember correctly) to separate the chunks of sand.

A better way might be to pad out, make a silicone rubber mold, and make a wax casting to hand over to an investment casting firm. They imbed the wax in ceramic and then melt out/burn out the wax before pouring metal. You get a better finish than sand casting but the precision surfaces still have to be machined.
 
best to check out their web site for the particulars, they have a lot of product how to's etc. I think the blue or green silicone is best but requires a vacumn chamber to de air it first. I use the cheap self de airing stuff ,takes about 4- 8 hrs to cure a mold half and its a softer durometer than the others when cured but for most stuff it has worked well and held a reasonable tolerance if you have enough product around the part or a ridged box surround ,they sell it in 1lb containers. No chance of any damage to the part ,nothing sticks to it....except other silicone so you have to use their mold release between mold half's, it comes with it in the kits. I've even poured low temp alloys, lead etc. in it with great results and excellent surface detail.
I've used their urethane plastic for all kinds of stuff, cures in 2 minutes, tool handles, prototype block material....machines really well and they sell dyes for color. I've used certain sheet plastic, the slick white milky colored stuff...HMWP, I think Delrin also etc. for quick molds also as it does not stick to it either. .test first. Wont stick to plastic containers marked "PP",:D, either and I've used those to make rounds for the lathe.
To extend the shelf life they sell that canned stuff, bloxogyen?, but the hot tip if you have a mig welder with an argon bottle in the shop is to give each bottle a couple blasts after each use and you'll get a year on the shelf, paint also, stuff does not like moisture and they say if it does get contaminated you can bake it for awhile to burn it off but I don't like that idea much, when its contaminated it foams up when curring.
Worth a try for under a 100 bucks and you'll find a lot of uses for it.
 








 
Back
Top