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Antique Tool Box Do you know who made it?

Among the many businesses that have been at that address are
George D. Scherr Company
Lafayette Tool & Supply Company
Atlantic Gear Works
Edw(ard) R Ladew Company
Novelty Steel Rule Cutting Dies​
It's part of NY Chinatown now, but was an industrial/commercial neighborhood 60-100 years ago.

Probably George D. Scherr company, circa 1935-1955. The monogram initials in the logo looks like GS to me, and the little that remains of the name at the top of the label could be George Scherr.

Entirely likely the actual manufacture of the box was out-sourced to some other company.
 
Among the many businesses that have been at that address are
George D. Scherr Company
Lafayette Tool & Supply Company
Atlantic Gear Works
Edw(ard) R Ladew Company
Novelty Steel Rule Cutting Dies​
It's part of NY Chinatown now, but was an industrial/commercial neighborhood 60-100 years ago.

Probably George D. Scherr company, circa 1935-1955. The monogram initials in the logo looks like GS to me, and the little that remains of the name at the top of the label could be George Scherr.

Entirely likely the actual manufacture of the box was out-sourced to some other company.
http://www.gerstnerforum.com/forumdisplay.php?28-George-Scherr-Wood-Tool-Chests-New-York-NY
 
The building is a fine limestone loft that was built about 1911.
I think that's (129-135 Lafayette on Howard) the building on the corner. Google Maps and Map Quest show 128 Lafayette in the middle of the block, with a very scruffy red-brick and advertising awning exterior.

935843b469cfc5d621bb2435ceef93c5_small.JPG
 
That link is fine, but the pics are MIA.... can;t see them, and they give a "not found". Maybe they were on Photobreakit.
 
I wasn't sure about this, so I did a bit more hunting. This George Scherr is the same George Sherr company that merged with Tumico (formerly the Tubular Micrometer Company) to form Sherr-Tumico. The George Scherr company made toolmaker's microscopes and optical comparators, and I suspect the wooden toolboxes were just incidental to the main lines of products.

The Reed micrometer company merged into the whole mess at some point. S-T Industries are still in business, selling more or less the same lines of products, updated for the 21st Century. However, production is now in Minnesota.
 
I must not have the secret decoder ring, since they show up as "not found" for me. They do not show up on the site, just the "frame", and if I do a "view image", then I get a "not found".
 
Can't wait to show the restored version! Just finished final polish of the hardware. This will be far from fire wood.
 
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Thank you and many others for such great responses. Here are the same pictures (some say they can't see them) PLUS ONE MORE IMPORTANT ONE, consisting of three screwed on letters, in this order: JVS.

IMG_0844_2.jpgIMG_0844_2.jpg

I will follow every lead and so appreciate this sharing experience!
 
Thank you again. I have never restored/repaired antiques...so I have been doing a lot of research/reading and watching videos. Two things confuse me:

!- Many talk about "bleaching" the wood - I don't understand why... I mean if I use some paint/stain/varnish remover, scrub with a "soft" bristle brush and then use my small sander with a soft grit, it should be enough? I would then stain and varnish the chest. Let me know what you all think.

2- How do I either replicate or protect or restore (doubt that is possible) the George Scherr decal? Do I simply really carefully sand around it? Or can I buy one that would authenticate the chest? I saw a refurb chest on the web where they restored the entire chest but left the last drawer, which has the decal, untouched. Looked weird to me...

Comments, suggestions... anyone? Much appreciated.
 
I do not know where to get real "decals" of ANY sort these days.

People sell what they call "decals" now, but they are frauds of the worst kind. They are typically a sheet of sticky-backed plastic with the design printed on them. If you look up "decal" on wikipedia, these are referred to as "peel and stick" types. They look absolutely rotten on anything they are applied to. Horribly fake looking.

A real "decal" is different from that, it would be called a "water slide" type decal, in which the whole thing is screen-printed layer by layer on top of a water-base glue, which is applied to a backing. All the decals on old toolboxes, old engines, etc are of the "water slide" type. These are soaked briefly in water, then slid off the backing and onto the object to which it is to be applied.

I have the same problem with an old Sipco (Schartow Iron Products Co) tool box. But I am not too worried about it, because it was soaked during a fire at the prior owner's place, and had to be soaked in hot water, taken apart, dried, re-assembled with hide glue, and re-finished. Any "authenticity" is pretty much gone, except for most of the Sipco decal which I left in place on the bottom drawer. As soon as I find nickel-plated split rivets I can put the hardware back on and use it.
 
I do not know where to get real "decals" of ANY sort these days.

People sell what they call "decals" now, but they are frauds of the worst kind. They are typically a sheet of sticky-backed plastic with the design printed on them. If you look up "decal" on wikipedia, these are referred to as "peel and stick" types. They look absolutely rotten on anything they are applied to. Horribly fake looking.

A real "decal" is different from that, it would be called a "water slide" type decal, in which the whole thing is screen-printed layer by layer on top of a water-base glue, which is applied to a backing. All the decals on old toolboxes, old engines, etc are of the "water slide" type. These are soaked briefly in water, then slid off the backing and onto the object to which it is to be applied.

Testors decal system. Make your own water slide decals.

We used them for Pinewood Derby cars to put authentic looking decals on the cars.

You inject print onto the special paper, then spray with the sealer. When it's dry, cut it out, soak in water and slide. Just like the models we built as kids.

Steve
 
Very good. Thanks.

I had heard there was such a thing, but never had a clue who made it. Back a few years when I searched, that name did not come up.
 








 
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