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[B]Hammond Machinery Builders, Tool Grinder Model CB-77[/B]

texasgeartrain

Titanium
Joined
Feb 23, 2016
Location
Houston, TX
Fairly recently I was getting towards the end of getting my lathe together, and was thinking about a tool grinder. I had seen what looked more or less like bench grinders with miter tables on them and was considering going that route. In looking around I came across two old tool grinders made in the USA and though I'd try going that route. This being one of them.

In the end I thought the restoration might be fun, plus I think the machines will be a bit more interesting. Being heavier industrial types won't hurt either I'm thinking.

The other grinder is by Standard Electrical Tool Co. I posted something on it a while back, and in that thread I also showed some pics of this Hammond machine. Anyway this will be my Hammond grinder thread. I plan on tearing this down all the way and building it back up, and I'm getting on it now. So will see how it goes, and I'll keep updates with pics and such.

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I have not found much info on this machine yet. However I found a post on vintage machinery with a near identical machine. The fellow who submitted was John Olsen. He gives a short, but sweet write up on basics of the machine as well as a quick walk through as his restoration. The link for it is here:
Photo Index - Hammond Machine Co. - CB-77B Cutting Tool Grinder | VintageMachinery.org

He lists the machine as Hammond Machine Co. My tags show Hammond Machinery Builders, not sure if there was a name change or not, I've seen Hammond of Kalamazoo listed elsewhere too, but I think they're all basically the same company. Based on serial I would guess mine is slightly older. Also his model is shown as CB-77B, where mine is shown as CB-77. His post is from 2012, and he was guessing the machine was 40's or 50's.

I copied the finished pics from his post here for those curious. Pretty sweet:

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Off topic, but if a moderator could edit this thread title,I'd appreciate it. I wasn't expecting the B's for bold, and I cant edit, or even delete the thread, lol.

Started tear down, and what a grade A s.o.b. this has turned out to be. If it was not stuck or frozen in so many places, i'm thinking I could tear down the whole thing in about half a day. As it is, I was all day just getting apart what I did.

I wanted to start on the 6" diamond wheel side, but the table was drawn up close to the wheel. Can't remove wheel. Cant remove table. The in & out portion to that wheel, stuck like a son of a gun. So I started with the chip breaker wheel side first.

This side also stuck, frozen and otherwise flipping me the bird. Can't remove part A because I cant access the hardware yet. Part B can access some, but need to remove part C which is frozen, part D has hardware blocked by A,B, and C. . . and so it went.

Finally, I just started loosening everything I could put a wrench, allen key, or screw driver on. Spraying wd-40 and tapping with a hammer I finally got enough loose to start yanking pieces.

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Getting the table off turned out to be a trick as well. It has bolt in ways, with ball bearings to roll on. 8 bolts through the top, 2 from the back, as well as allen screws on front side that both hold the front way and provide a way tension adjustment.

With everything stuck and being a general pain in the ass, I didn't have much choice, but remove all the hardware, raise the table, and let the balls and such just fall.

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Here's a couple more pics from Vintage. Page 2 & 3 show your machine.

http://www.vintagemachinery.org/pubs/415/17217.pdf


RF

That's awesome. I downloaded the pdf, enlarged the two pages of this machine, had to do it in 4 pieces though.

Sadly no date, but curious the bottom of each page sayes "good machinery since '82". That's not talking about 1982, lol. I would think if this little bulletin was 40's or 50's it would say 1882, not '82.

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Back to the diamond wheel side. Looking into a side inspection plate hole, I could see that whatever the mechanism to move table in and out went through to chip breaker side. And on chip breaker side, dead in line with that mechanism is a circle plate with 4 allen screws, and a pipe plug in the middle.

Well it turns out, its not just a plate. its a long ass cross feed nut. I was able to spin it off counter clock wise. In playing around with it, I was able to get the dial to spin, but have not yet got table to move out, in fact it prefered to start jacking the lead screw's bushing out vs letting table move out.

Looking up the hole, you can see lead screw in the middle, but if you notice the the outside diameter of the hole, that portion is stuck, and stuck big time. Still working on it. I figure I'll give it a little time to get a new attitude.

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One problem is access. Another is I'm kind of working blind, without knowing what is going to be behind door #2, and no manual.

Not knowing if some set screw, or whatever might be under the table, I thought I'd try to get the table off. Being the table straddles the machine, and it being drawn up close to the wheel, made it a real tough deal to get off. In the end I took the hardware off the wheel, and though I could not remove wheel, I could tilt it enough to sneak a punch in and knock the table pivot pins out enough. The pivot pins had set screws as well.

With the table off, it didn't help me one god d@#$ bit for the in and out base, lol.

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I was thinking maybe I could unbolt the whole upper body of machine. Lay it on the press, and push out the in and out table base. . .

So. . . next problem. Main body has part of its pedestal circling the up/down cylinder on chip breaker side. That cylinder is not going to fit through the hole as is. It too is stuck like a S.O.B., and I don't know what components are inside, or how to get it apart, great.

Well I got the hand wheel section out. Also figured out the bottom side of cylinder has a plate that also serves as a crossfeed nut of sorts. Loosening the 4 bolts, I turn the lead screw and jack that 4 bolt plate down about 1/8th". I then begin tightening the 4 bolts evenly, and gradually I am jacking the cylinder up. That's where I'm at. I'll post more good times later.

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Watching this closely. I have a $40 identical grinder patiently waiting.
Joe

You got me beat, you're winning money wise. Though I got this at pretty reasonable price. Doing a little research, I saw one went recently on an online auction for $95.

Dammit I live in the totally wrong area for buying old machines, lol. I grew up and spent a good chunk of my life in NJ. From Philadelphia to Boston I could throw a rock and hit an old machine. Same from Ohio to WI. Pickings are a little more sparse here. Gotta be vigilant to find stuff locally. Might be worth renting a tractor trailer, and bringing a truck load or two down here, haha.
 
Well I continued to incrementally loosen the four bolts on that up/down feed nut while cranking the handle to go up, then tighten the four bolts again. Long and grueling, but I got it jacked up most of the way until I ran out of threads on feed nut.

At that point I used two small bottle jacks to carefully apply upward pressure, pushing under the flange just below crank handle. I was taking care to go carefully as I didnt want to crack or split anything. It came out.

In the one pic it looks like shaft is scored, but it not, that's just the lighting I guess. There is a little bit of pitting near top, which is elevated out of cylinder most of the time. The cylinder itself looks very good. There is a spring loaded locator to one side of cylinder, to keep shaft from rotating.

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Having success with that, I thought I would employ the same technique on the stuck shaft on diamond wheel side. You can see in the one pick I was previous jacking the bushing out, unintentionally.

Going back to it, using a deep well 3/4" drive socket as a spacer, I flipped crossfeed nut around and used the flat side of it to push on the 3/4" drive socket. Incrementally tightening the four bolts it moved. Once I got to a certain point I just worked it out by hand.

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With it apart, the shaft and bore look good. You can see remnants of a boot that connected from main housing to table, to keep grit and debris off the shaft.

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Started working on getting the spindle out. First I got the set screw out from belt pulley, then lubed and cleaned the shaft in expectation of needing to shove the shaft out with a puller.

Next you need to remove spanner type nut from chip breaker side. Then use a puller to get the rest of wheel holder off. With that off there is a 4 allen head screw flange that keeps bearing from thrusting.

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Next I pulled the wheel holder for grinding wheels on diamond wheel side.

With no real way to grab, and not wanting to beat on it with a hammer, I decided to drill and tap two 5/16" holes. With that I could set up my H bar puller. The cast iron is about a 1/2" thick there. I'll probably install some 1/2" long bolts from inside to block the holes when I assemble.

With that I set up puller and shoved the shaft toward chip breaker side. I kept on shoving once I was out of the bearings, because you need to move the belt pulley. There is an alley way going towards chip breaker side that key way won't hit, but you have to stop before you get to bearing journal, back the shaft up, and remove key way.

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So the spindle is out and we'll work on cleaning up the parts. Both front and rear spindle bearings are 6205 rs, pretty common and easy to find, though I couldn't find any USA made bearings, ordered Nachi bearings from Japan. We'll see how it goes.

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Before mounting main body of grinder to cabinet, I put some silicone around the circle hole on tray of cabinet, as well as on the circumference of cylinder. In case cooling is used I don't want it leaking through to inside of cabinet.

A rubber flexible bellows would be best used around the cylinder. I don't have one yet, and delivery times can vary to long waits depending on dimensions. I found this site, once I know what my realistic travel is I'll probably add it:
Rubber Bellows 61mm & above Connectors


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