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Boyar Shultz Motor

spaeth

Hot Rolled
Joined
Jan 28, 2008
Location
emporium pa
I have a pretty nice Boyar Shultz Deluxe 612 Surface Grinder. It is an older
unit probably 1960s era, pre plastic handles. I'm looking for a motor as mine
burned up. It has an odd mounting method and I'm not finding any replacement
motor. Any one have a boyar shultz to part out? The motor mounts via two
bolts coming through a curved bracket and screwing into the motor. It is a
GE 5K43HG289 3/4 hp 3 phase. I would like to find a replacement as making
a new bracket causes multiple issues. The spindle drives via belt not coupled
to the spindle as many grinders are. Rewinding is an option but costly. Send
PM if you have one out back.
Thanks
SPAETH
 
It's not just the mounting that makes it different.
Probably has a top notch balancing job done on it.
And the replacement needs to be also with pulley installed.
 
Spaeth: How much to rewind your motor? I had a motor (3 phase) for a Cincinnati Monoset rewound a couple of years ago and it cost me $125.00. Does this seem too far out for your budget? Good luck.

JH
 
The Boyar-Schultz motor body is a standard diameter. Even though the original motor mounted by bolts to the body, it is easily possible to replace it with a new motor. Large hose clamps will securely hold a standard motor against the curved mount of the surface grinder. All it takes is two clamps. I can take pics if you need them.
Jim
 
Magicmaker,
So did you put a standard motor on your grinder using hose clamps? Great idea,
but as 47nomad raised a balance question does it cause any issues getting good
finishes? If I could get mine rewound for around two hundred I'd go that way.
Thanks for the input.
SPAETH
 
Magicmaker,
So did you put a standard motor on your grinder using hose clamps? Great idea,
but as 47nomad raised a balance question does it cause any issues getting good
finishes? If I could get mine rewound for around two hundred I'd go that way.
Thanks for the input.
SPAETH

If the grinder was a direct drive rather than belt drive, balance would be critical. Years ago when I bought mine I did not have 3 phase in the shop. I replaced the original motor with a single phase motor. Again, with direct drive, this would not be a good idea but with belt drive it works fine. I have kept my original motor in case I ever want to reverse things.

More critical to a good finish than the motor on the 612 is the lube on the table. I use ATF and the table glides smoothly on its ways.

Anyway, everything works well for me with the replacement motor.
Jim
 


+1 on using ATF for the table ways. I still use Vactra for the vertical column ways.
One thing I did was modify the table ball oiler and converted the table to receive
oil from the rear from 1/8" nylon tubing. I extended an 1/8" drill bit using a 3/8"
piece of rod for the shank. I soft soldered the drill bit into the extension.
This 3/8 rod fits in a pilot hole in the table. Remove the big ball oiler adapter
elbow thingy and it is in there. Drill the 1/8" hole until it breaks out the rear
of the table. Tap for 10-32 and I used a 90* banjo fitting I got from McMaster
or Clippard has them. For a pump I used a medium side Goldenrod oil can.
I used a (some 64th size) freeze plug to replace the ball oiler adapter in front.
There are little mesh filter screens in the ways of the carriage. Mine were
plugged with crud and a few were gone missing. I made new ones out of some
fine mesh I had from a gas tank filter screen. I formed the ends in a small tube
mandrel and I used soft solder to form the rim flange where the filter screens
sit in the holes in the ways.
The cover for the column has bulkhead fitting that is fed with a separate oil
can. The oil drips on the bevel gears and there is channels that feed the drips
to the vertical ways.
I hear ya about the motor. It is a 56 frame, be it with those holes. I kinda
like the hose clamp idea. I like rewinding it even better. I took my motor
apart for cleaning and such. I pulled out a surprising amount of felt for the
bushings. I washed the felt, refolded it just such that it needed to be, and
put it all back together. The end play is set with a butterfly clip under the
rear GE cap cover. It does need some end play. I think I had .010" and it ran
hot. I think I run .020 end play now. Which really does not matter since it is
belt drive. (mine is anyway). I added what seemed like a few ounces of 20wt
oil to the felt when I got it together again. Make sure the tube for the front
bushing is there. My flip cap was missing so I use a vinyl hose cap to seal it.
Because I had them, I converted the V-belt to tooth timing belt. The pulleys
slow the wheel to 3000 rpm, so the motor pulley is just a bit smaller.
I use a VFD to run my grinder. Funny, there is a little droning vibration right
at 60 HZ. I run the motor at 63 Hz and it is smooth as glass. VFD is nice to
tune the hardness of the wheel. Faster, the wheel acts harder. Slower and
the wheel acts softer, and the abrasive breaks away more readily.
I ordered new neoprene rubber bellows from McMaster. They fit great, all I did
was shorten the cuffs a little bit. I think they were white rubber with a glued
seam. Not sure the size. It could use a new table feed gear. I read somewhere
here that is available from Mcmaster as well. Any one with a number, please
post it here.

--Doozer
 
Magicmaker and Doozer,
Thanks for the advise men. I bought a standard 56 frame 3/4hp motor and two big hose
clamps. For less than a hundred bucks and a few hours work I'm up and grinding again.
Also switched to ATF to lube the table ways. I've only test ground several parts but
finish is good or better than before. No noticeable vibration from the spindle which
would have been a major issue. The two hose clamps hold the motor very secure. I
did have to cut a keyway in the motor shaft.
SPAETH
 








 
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