Brown and Sharpe milling machine

Just got my No 2 light Brown and Sharpe milling machine running. Not sure how much oil kevel needs to be in knee. No sight glass, just a fill cup. So I filled the fill cup to the point oil is standing in the cup and it runs out at a pretty good rate for a few days. So, I'm not sure if I might be overfilling it or not. I do know according to the information that I do have is that the oil system does hold pressure after the machine is shut off for a good while. I also know the drip glass for the knee is not showing anything when knee is feeding. When I lay on my back and look up under the knee I see that the open drip system is pumping oil to various gears and bushings so these things have to leak oil while running. I also notice a what looks like a 5/16 copper line with a fitting on the end not hooked up to anything and don't see anyplace to hook it up to, but no oil is coming out of it. If I can't figure it out I guess I'll drain oil sump to see how much oil is in it after it slows down. I'm hoping the drip glass will "heal" itself. I was unaware of the problem before I had the knee off for painting a few years ago, and now the machine is in place with no overhead beam so I hate to take it apart again but may have to. Thanks for your help.

djones3158 said:

I was unaware of the problem before I had the knee off for painting a few years ago, and now the machine is in place with no overhead beam so I hate to take it apart again but may have to. Thanks for your help.

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No pressing need. Average flow of a decent choice of coolant/oil will hide that insignificant issue soon enough.

Brown & Sharpe must have been investors in Rockefeller's Standard Oil empire, early-on for all the help they gave him at boosting consumption.

The way a new hire (Ich) was directed to the chosen mill, one Day Job? The B&S was the oily one, the "Milwaukee" the dryer one. Relatively - neither being exactly pristine, what with blackish sulfurized cutting oil our mainstay.

Yeah, the oily one is right. The picture I posted was after about a week of wiping up oil. It really leaks when a fill er up. My Dad got this mill back in the early 60's and I let a friend use it in his shop for a while and then brought it to my garage about 15yrs ago and don't remember oil on the base like there is now after you fill the cup. Sure wish there was a sight glass to show oil level on this model. Early 40's Maybe someone on here that has one will chime in. Thanks, the oily one, I like that!

djones3158 said:

Yeah, the oily one is right. The picture I posted was after about a week of wiping up oil. It really leaks when a fill er up. My Dad got this mill back in the early 60's and I let a friend use it in his shop for a while and then brought it to my garage about 15yrs ago and don't remember oil on the base like there is now after you fill the cup. Sure wish there was a sight glass to show oil level on this model. Early 40's Maybe someone on here that has one will chime in. Thanks, the oily one, I like that!

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"Wish", Hell. Pick a good spot and drill. Use a "sight TUBE" if not sure where level is meant to be. Then mark it from experimentation or experience.

B&S designer's ghost wont haunt you one wit. Too busy b**t shagging helpless Cincinnati mills down in Hell and looking over his shoulder to stay clear of rampant K&T's turned on by all that slippery oil.



Sight glass goods start at about six bucks each, complete, and there are over a dozen styles and materials. Even b****y WALMART has them. Small groundskeeping engine parts area.

I have a friend with a newer version and it has a sight glass. I suppose I could drill where his is but his oil pump is in a different place so not sure how that would work out, but may work fine. Still would like to know where that open ended line supposed to go and I bet after this thing quits leaking I'll drain the sump and see how much is left in it. Thanks for your ideas.

djones3158 said:

I have a friend with a newer version and it has a sight glass. I suppose I could drill where his is but his oil pump is in a different place so not sure how that would work out, but may work fine. Still would like to know where that open ended line supposed to go and I bet after this thing quits leaking I'll drain the sump and see how much is left in it. Thanks for your ideas.

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Just as an example:

2-3/4 Inch Long Sight, 1/4 Inch Thread Size, 56477276 - MSC

Now.. watch DOO with this sort of kit, gravity being generally reliable, is tap it in fairly low-down towards the sump, on flexible tubing.

Then raise and lower its mounting point so the desired level comes good at mid-range. Conversion to rigid tubing once that has been ascertained, optional.

thanks for the link, that may be the way to go!

djones3158 said:

thanks for the link, that may be the way to go!

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Helps to look at old goods and say OK - the designer had a tight budget, and not necessarily even access to what we have now.


What might he have done with more money, time, flexibility, or better third-party parts?
How can I do even better?

I don't see those sort of improvements as "frankenmill".

Like to think his ghost would say "Hey, that's clever. Wish I'd have done it first!"

Still leaking, hasn't run in 2 weeks....LOL!

djones3158 said:

Still leaking, hasn't run in 2 weeks....LOL!

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If... I had ANY machine-tool as leaked so little?

B'leive I'd have to drill a number 80 hole somewheres ... just to feel I was back in a "real shop".

Fortunately, the #80 is perfectly safe in the ... oily .. Huot.