Brown and sharpe universal no.2 light dutu
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  1. #1
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    Default Brown and sharpe universal no.2 light dutu

    hi everyone,
    i acquired a no.2 b&s universal miller. best i can tell its from 1943. it is in great shape. it came from a dockyard where it wasnt used all that much and the machining surfaces were preserved in thick protectant.
    i am desperate to get this thing going. it just stares at me in my shop.
    iam trying to hook up the electrics and am no electrician. i am looking for a manual that is this machine specific and was hoping someone is willing to share. i havent found one online and the ones that might be applicable have poor images.
    hoping someone is willing to help.
    rhis machine has a table motor, a coolant pump and a three phase motor. there are wires for days and not sure where to begin.
    i will be using a 3 phase 5hp motor for the rotary converter.
    cheers
    matt

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    Hi,

    So what is your problem? Need more information..

    On the #2 Heavy there is a large electrical cabinet on the right side of the machine. You should hook up the three wires coming from your RPC there, the machine should be wired for all functions from that box using the on board contactors and switches. If you hook it up and the motors are turning backward switch two of the three wires and try again.

    A 5 HP RPC might be a little light for the machine with all 3 three motors running. IS your RPC complete and running?

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    Their Practical Treatise on Milling and Milling Machines from 1953 shows a huge electrical enclosure to rear on right side of the light type. If folks have been messing about in there you may have to start over.

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    my problem is that iam a novice with electrics and not sure where the wires from the rpc actually hook up to. i have changed motor direction on a couple of motors but thats it. i have not commited to a 5 hp 3 phase but its ready when i am. are you recommending a 7 or a 10 hp motor
    thanks for your time
    matt

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    Quote Originally Posted by johnoder View Post
    Their Practical Treatise on Milling and Milling Machines from 1953 shows a huge electrical enclosure to rear on right side of the light type. If folks have been messing about in there you may have to start over.
    From the three light machines I have seen they are pretty much a shrunk version of the heavy machines.

    John is right about folks messing with the electrics over the years. A few good pictures of the insides of that electrical cabinet would help us help you....

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    Quote Originally Posted by mattya72 View Post
    my problem is that iam a novice with electrics and not sure where the wires from the rpc actually hook up to. i have changed motor direction on a couple of motors but thats it. i have not commited to a 5 hp 3 phase but its ready when i am. are you recommending a 7 or a 10 hp motor
    thanks for your time
    matt
    In my world a 10 hp is much better option... You will never know when you will pick up another machine that needs 3 phase and with a 10 it will run pretty much anything...

    Of course you never can tell what the cats will drag into your shop I ran very well for years with a 10 Hp... Now I have a 10 AND a 20

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    Matt,
    Just hire a local electrical guru. Three phase is pretty straight
    forward. A few bucks might save you from frying something expensive.
    I have a #2 B&S Light also and it is a nice compact machine that can
    do real work. Mine runs using a 3hp rotary phase converter on a 30A line.
    spaeth
    mvc-099s.jpg mvc-088s.jpg dscn2059.jpg dscn0357.jpg

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    trying to upload pictires. what a bear.

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    spaeth. your pictures are awesome. nice set up and execution. my machine came without yokes. i tracked down an outter yoke. am i hooped for rigidity? can i just use the outter yoke and shorten the arbor? the outter has a pilot bushing that is only 23/32. what do you think?
    thanks
    Matt

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    Quote Originally Posted by mattya72 View Post
    trying to upload pictires. what a bear.
    Just go to the advanced editor, "Go Advanced"button on the bottom right of the quick reply screen. Down below the editor window is the manage attachment button box... Click on that and select upload pictures... Find them on your computer, upload them and then insert them inline of the post...

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    sorry for the confusing links. i guess the moderator had to approve. uploading from my phone. my only computer. not sure how to thumbnail it. a lead on a manual or some direction as to where the wires from the power supply connect so i could thoroughly umderstand would be awesome. thanks
    Matt

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    Usually the incoming lines attatch to the top row of that large black contactor in your picture. Picture was fuzzy so I really could not see what was attatched there now.

    Look over your machine and see if there are any other places a line could be attached, knocked out plugs are a good indicator...

    You have two choices for protection for you machine, breakers in a panel or a fused disconnect. . Some old machines already have a fused disconnect box mounted to the machine. If you do that is where the incoming lines will connect.

    If all you have to connect to this forum is your phone I would recomend you get the app called tapatalk. Makes using forums much easier...

    Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

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    That component in the lower right of your electrical panel, with the two push buttons , is the control for the coolant pump.

    Another thing you need to figure out is the voltage the machine is currently wired for... 220 or 440...

    Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

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    thanks now we are getting somewhere. the motor tag days 440 on it. very appreciative of responses
    in the end i have a steam guy that knows just about everything but he has trouble getting around. trying to make it simple for him.

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    If it is 440 you will need to change out the heaters and wire the motors for 220..

    Hearers is just another word for fuse/breakers. 440 uses 1/2 the amps as 220 so when you try to use it on 220 you will pop the heaters... Heaters are like breakers and can be reset, unlike fuses..

    For a good source for heaters search for "Stan the Heater Man"

    Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

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    T ake a better picture of the contactors and we can show you where the heaters are installed..

    Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

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    thanks for the hand holding. i will upload more clpse ups after work. 5pm pacific.

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    are these pictures any help? they were on my phonr

    Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk


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