I've had this one for several years now and am pleased to have it to supplement my large horizontal.
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m85/CircRef/HMontrailer.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m85/CircRef/1horizontalIII-1.jpg
I've never found any literature beyond an ad flyer type but don't see that as a particular disadvantage. Though of industrial quality, they are very simple machines.
After unloading it, the first pic link, I partially disassembled it, revealing "all" it's few secrets, such as the sliding head counter weight hanging from a roller chain in the column.
I mounted the loose electrical control, cleaned up, painted the parts, reassembled it and made some adjustments to snug the dovetails etc. and then put it to use.
Some folks instinctively recoil from the rack and pinion feeds of the spindle head and the table X axis, as did I. That is unwarrented, as they both give great control for general metal removal and there are stops that don't quite take the place of decimal dials on feed screws but that by no means hampers their utility. You might have noticed the dial indicator above the sliding spindle head in the second pic. In addition, there is an adjustable stop under the head.
On a mill with screw feeds, ever wonder if the feed speed is near optimum but don't bother experimenting? With rack and pinion feeds, very quickly your hand control on the lever will sensitize to very close to optimum feed without thought. You can feel it, like the itch that demands an unnoticed scratch.
In the link below,
"Millingboringbar", is a good example of the value of hand feed. The first cut on a round is very narrow, quickly spreading in subsequent passes, which will beneft from the "adjustable feed" that your hand will sense.
DO NOT CLIMB MILL! That is the one place that hand feed suffers by comparison to screw feed. The cutter
will run across the part, (thrust the table back). Not good for part or machine. Fortunately, I discovered that while making a cut so thin, that the cutter teeth could simply bury, rather than damage the part, mill or me. The handle snapping out of my hand, could have hurt with a different hold. To me, that is no detriment. I just don't climb mill with it, kinda' like I don't step in front of speeding cars.
There are other machines in my shop that I'd let go of first. It's my go-to machine for keyways, the only reason I'll go to the distinct displeasure of end milling a keyway, is if the part can't tolerate a ramp out of the keyway. Set the depth and table stop and mill the keyway, done. I've never snapped off an 1/8" horizontal mill cutter. Something very satisfying about 18 cutting teeth per revolution, versus two fragile little flutes per rev and squinting as you hold your breath while wondering if it's safe to cut the keyway in 3 passes. After all, it's a deep sumbitch, 0.0625. that's a whopping 0.020+ per scary pass....
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m85/CircRef/Millingboringbar.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m85/CircRef/Millingpipejoint.jpg
Bob