NBP lathe-> worth buying or horizontal wallet boring machine?

First let me say what a super forum this is.
Some of these old machines are really amazing.
The new ones just blow my mind.

I recently found a monster lathe under a tarp.

The man wants $100.

He claims it works and he had it running once.
Bearings are tight and what not (golly aren't I technical)
This guy is 92 and a retired machinist who worked for a outboard engine manufacturer for better than 50yrs.

Here are pics

#1 is it worth more than scrap?

#2 what is missing?

#3 what EXACTLY should I inspect to assure it will run

I know NOTHING about machining so be gentle.

>>>IT HAS ONLY BEEN OUTSIDE FOR 2 MONTHS <<

JUST WANTED TO USE THIS ONE AGAIN


I have NO idea what I would do with something this BIG

actually I never used a lathe until 2 days ago

maybe I could turn NBA players into midgets?

what do you do with this big stuff?

thanks in advance

(Snicker) Gee, he's asking an AWFUL lot for that hole in the air filled by metal into which time is poured. (An obvious take-off on the comments regarding boats.)

I can't see the pix as I'm at work. But all signs are in your favor if you choose to partake.

Price is right.

Comes with report of previous successful use.

The guy is old and simply wants to clean out and not leave the family a headache when he hangs up his track shoes.

He may even be interested in "saving" a historic and notable machine. They don't build 'em like this anymore in this country - mebbe not even in China.

The big question is do you have the time and the interest?

OBTW, cute initial subject line.

Joe in NH

Was owned by them, not necessarily made by them. Their divisions did the making. Folks such as Niles, Bement, Pond and after 1901, Pratt & Whitney.


Its a quick change three step cone double back gear, so my guess on age is around or after 1905.

As to make, I have no guesses. If carriage is moved, the maker's name may be cast into face of bed.

John Oder

My pop has a very similar lathe, and it works well. I would check the two gears that line up with the broken casting and make sure they have all of their teeth. My pop's was the first I ever ran, and I managed to pop a tooth on the back gears by taking too heavy a cut. He was not impressed...

Pete

johnoder said:

As to make, I have no guesses. If carriage is moved, the maker's name may be cast into face of bed.
John Oder

Click to expand...

I'll go look later today.

double back geared means XX low rpms right?

CLUE
the man said it came from England (as best he knows)

isn't paint color a hint? (just asking)

Personally I owuldn't touch it...it's just too big for most stuff. It also has been sitting outside. Looks like it was dropped a long time ago given the broken gear box area pieces, or they used the overhead crane to bonk someting into it.

I like the nameplate 'Miscellaneous Dept.' though!

double back geared means XX low rpms right?

Click to expand...

Not necessarily. Just means there are two ranges of back geared speeds and one range of "open belt" speeds.

Generally associated with heavy duty lathes requiring as much spindle power as was available with flat belt drive to that spindle.

John Oder

On edit:

My K&T mill came from Switzerland but was made in Milwaukee, Wisconsin.

>>>IT HAS ONLY BEEN OUTSIDE FOR 2 MONTHS <<

Click to expand...

That steady-rest has been outside longer!

A 100 bucks go get it you cant even by the steel for that. I started with flat belt stuff it is great, it is easy to fix and very forgiving if you mess up . All cleaned up and painted she would look beautiful, I only regret the machines I didnt buy never the ones I did,

If you don't what it let me know where it is

I would probably be interested if you back out on this one.

Needs some work like most old machines do.

If the spindle, lead screw, back gears turn and the carriage slides, buy it.

CarlBoyd

The jaws of the monster await.... from which there is no return!!!

Dave

well I just went back and slathered it in oil and covered better until I can pick it up

pardon my lack of nomenclature
I haven't seen a diagram labeling the controls for this or any lathe and only have about 5mins on one EVER

the ways look good on carriage and tool holder

the entire thing can be spun with by using the chuck key as a handle

all teeth inside appear to be complete and in better condition than the last three auto differentials I took apart

there is even a flat belt

I'm not sure how much tooling is included

all but two handles turn freely (kinda stiff)

I clamped 6" of pipe in and tried to feel some play in the headstock but it feels very tight (of course I'm not sure what junk feels like)

Billtodd said:

That steady-rest has been outside longer!

Click to expand...

it appears to have been home made from steel of varying finish qualities

CarlBoyd said:

I would probably be interested if you back out on this one.
CarlBoyd

Click to expand...

I don't back out.
I flip.


I'm in Saint Cloud.
This lathe sat in Makinson's Hardware in downtown Kissimmee.

JK on the flip thing.

GregSY said:

Personally I owuldn't touch it...it's just too big for most stuff. It also has been sitting outside. Looks like it was dropped a long time ago given the broken gear box area pieces, or they used the overhead crane to bonk someting into it.

I like the nameplate 'Miscellaneous Dept.' though!

Click to expand...

I agree with your concern over the breakage.

You can see where part of it was replaced, but I wonder why it ALL wasn't ???
Good second mention and I will look closely at that area and see if I can figure out how to engage those gears.


As far as the rust ??
well this IS Florida

the armpit of the nation

It found you.

Gratewhitehuntr,
If you've got the $, the room to work on it and the means to move it, you're going to own it. (it looks like it's already on a trailer... one out of three already) It seems well worth rescuing. It's like the stray puppy showing up on your doorstep. That's the way these things start.
Be sure to ask plenty of questions of the old guy. His knowledge is worth a lot.
If it's the only machine you have, you may want to trade it for something smaller and handier, as a starter machine.
Get it under cover and covered in oil.
Just remember, if you do get it going... it's a big potentially dangerous machine. There are a lot of ways to get hurt. Be careful!
Now the fun starts!

In honor of the great Dan Akroyd film, and the general 'open' nature of the lathe, I suggest you name that lathe 'Mr. Bonestripper'.

Well, now you've done it.

Welcome to the ranks of serious boat anchor owners!

I've found that just covering in tarps will not inhibit rust, you also need to oil regularly (about twice a year here in VT), or else use something like LPS #3 to coat all the unpainted surfaces. Of course re-wrapping in tarps after each oiling.

It sounds like you are well aware of the rusting abilities of the FL climate!

Humidity from the ground can come up and cause corrosion, unless you cover the ground first with a tarp, then you have to make sure the tarp doesn't start trapping water... Maybe on sandy FL soil, this will not be a problem as long as the tarps cover everything and extend down close to the ground.

If you are not a good rigger, and have not moved heavy but brittle things before, I suggest getting some experienced help before moving it.

All lathes do not ballance at a point under the bed, some are top heavy, if you just try to pick them up with chains under the bed, the legs might not be heavy enough to keep the whole thing upright. Picking such a lathe up with a forklift might result in it rolling off the ends of the tines and landing on its side.

Also, dragging it along on it's legs might put a lot of sideways stress on those tall legs, which are designed only to take compression loads. So if you need to drag it anywhere, tie it down securely on a skid of some sort, one wide enough to keep it from tipping over, then pull on the skid to move it. Those timbers the legs are bolted to look like a good start, but might need some outriggers to add stability, and some diagonals to keep the two sides from moving independently. Is it on a trailer of some sort? Can't quite tell from the photos.

I had a 20" Flather, perhaps a bit bigger than the one you are looking at, moved successfully on an automobile tilt-bed carrier, slid along nicely on some 3/4" plywood sheets, but it had pedestal legs, more sturdy and lower than yours. Also, I took off a lot of the higher pieces of iron, to lower the CG.

I'm sure there are a lot of folks on the forum with plenty of experience moving these things, who might have better suggestions.

It's not really that hard to move one of these beasts, just takes care and a bit of thought.

Good Luck!

- JC

Ps. Wow. That chuck looks like it's about as big as can be fitted to that lathe, and you can't open the jaws much without interfering with the ways. What is the diameter of that chuck anyway?

I want to chime in with a +1 on what KPotter wrote:
"I only regret the machines I didn't buy, never the ones I did."

You mentioned that you can take apart automobile differentials. If you can do that, you obviously have, or can quickly develop, the skills needed to fix up this lathe.

It's been said that 13" swing is the largest size lathe that's practical in a home shop. That sentiment was developed when manual lathes cost a lot more than they do now, and it certainly doesn't take $100 bargains like this into account as far as the affordability aspect.

I say "go for it" if you have a place to put it! If you find you are in over your head, time-wise, you can probably sell it on this forum and recover your $100.

First purchase: Buy a gallon of Kroil from www.kanolabs.com

John Ruth

Is that a name or some characters cast into the cross bar on the headstock end legs?

I haven't seen a diagram labeling the controls for this or any lathe

Click to expand...

It is a very simple iron creature. If you don't have a copy of How To Run A Lathe you can buy one reasonable at Lindsay Publications. A great generic reference for simple iron creatures like this one.

In the meantime, don't worry about your ignorance, it is in the process of going away. If guys in 1905 (or so) with little if any schooling could figure this out, so can you - especially since you have been exposed to the mechanical elegance of differentials.

John Oder