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Cincinnati diving head - Disassembly ?

Panza

Stainless
Joined
Oct 23, 2005
Location
Lillehammer, Norway
I'm trying to take apart my new old Cincinnati dividing head due to a tight spot in one place on the worm gear (every 40th revolution).
I've taken it down the the main casting but how do I get the worm and gear out ?
Before that I need access to the worm gear to lock it in place to get the chuck off. That chuck has been on there for 50 years I bet.
 
I have an old Cincinnatti dividing head ,probably mid thirties,and the worm fits its shaft with a slow taper.The worm is cast iron,so be careful not to break pieces off it.In fact ,I think just about all the parts ,except small gears, are cast iron.Mine is completely knackered ,and was a waste of money.Regards John.
 
I have the scans already. But thanks anyway.
The B&S head is quite different as you can see below.

What I think I know is that the spindle is supposed to be pulled out of the non-chuck side.
Doesn't help much when the chuck is stuck.

Here is how far I have come:

Cinci-01.jpg


Cinci-02.jpg


Cinci-03.jpg


Cinci-04.jpg
 
Well looking at the scan I would say your right and the spindle comes out the back. Can you hold the spindle with the spindle lock or by holding the spacer ring? After getting the chuck off and removing the spacer ring the chuck lock will have to be removed. The worm shaft will have to have the eccentric removed from the left side first, then the shaft might be pulled fron the head, i said might, I'm unable to tell for sure from the scan. As for the chuck grip a pipe in the jaws good and tight set the spindle lock and put a pipe wrench on the pipe and rap sharply with a hammer. After all you live in lillehammer.
 
Manual is later - anti friction bearings and NMTB spindle nose

Back to your oldie.....

Ring behind chuck is bolted to spindle. Hang onto it with pin spanner and take off chuck

Then unbolt the ring and take it off spindle

Take off the four bolts/screws on back and the cover/bearing housing they retain

Disengage worm (handle opposite side from crank - it turns the eccentric worm mounting)

Take out spindle

Reference is the reprint of the 1919 Edition of A Treatise On Milling and Milling Machines
 
Thanks John - So simple.. yet so difficult. I saw the exploded view manual was for a later head too. Quite different really.
I will have a look at the "Treatise".

I have tried the following methods for breaking the chuck free (none of them successful):
- Clamping stock in chuck and using huge wrench on it.
- Clamping hex-bar in spindle and having a go at it with an impact wrench.
- Clamping bar across chuck and hitting it with a big hammer.
The spindle clamp does not hold enough and the plate behind the chuck was not strong enough :(

If I could get access to the worm gear from the side I could put some wood in there to lock the spindle.
 
You could try Loctiting in a tool with a big hex on it and a shank to fit spindle bore.

(make good sense to have rear bearing and its housing off first)

Tool could be bored out when spindle was out

Loctite used to advertise their #271 as having 3000 psi shear strength. Fairly easy to see a 2" long X 1" diameter would have enough area to resist 785 Lbs/Feet of torque if this was the actual case
 
They make freeze spray, try to freeze the threaded end on the spindle, then try your methods again. If you can remove the worm shaft you might get access to the inside. You need to remove the eccentric from the end of the worm shaft first.
 
Finally it let go!
I think the kroil worked it's way into the threads after a few days. I also took out the brake wedge and cleaned it.
That combined with a new bigger hex so that the jaws of the chuck had maximum contact with the chuck itself. Then the impact wrench again.
The casting that holds the worm came out first but I can't quite figure out how they got it in there in the first place.
Thanks for all the great ideas ! If I get some time I'll try do do a little "how to".
 
Did you happen to take other pictures of the spindle?
I've got one I've been thinking on converting over to an nmtb40 spindle. Someone had already taken a die grinder to it to fit 5c collets...
 








 
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