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Clausing Dual Timken - x bearing

cb1

Cast Iron
Joined
Jul 16, 2015
All,

Taking apart my Clausing Dual and wondering if this is a special bearing. Went through the Timken catalog, but not sure what I am reading. The bearing is marked Timken - x with a number 14125. I have not pulled a race yet as I will have to use to "welding trick" to get them out and that will most definitely ruin them.

Also, if anyone knows the v-belt number for the Clausing 100 series lathes, that would be great. Mine has a raggedy make a belt which is showing its date.

Some pictures of my project.

Thanks,

cb1
 

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Some more pictures

Here are a few more pictures,

cb1
 

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Three dollar auction puller

Last three pictures. Check out my three dollar OTC puller I picked up at an auction last year. In one of those surprise any box on table bids.

One of the things I am going to fix is the back gear thumb wheel that previous owners used a pliers on and doesn't function as intended. It is not a pin style, but expands a clutch/brake style band that hold the bull gear to the shaft. Apparently so it will give/slip when needed.

Anyway,

cb1
 

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It would have come with a belt, as you have to pull the mainshaft to install it. Don't think the company would want you taking apart the lathe to make it run after you just bought it. Now, the motor drive belt, yes, you would have to configure that to what set up you had.

The belt size I am looking for is for the belt between the two cone pulleys.

I see in the parts book you posted that they show a 14125A, which I see in the Timken book. May just leave the old ones in and adjust properly. They do not look to bad.

Thanks,

cb1
 
Now that I am reading for content LOL, I see they list a Veelos V-belt 1154. So, thanks again. Now I have to find that or equivalent.

cb1
 
Arggg, that is for the link belt. Not the original v-belt that came with the machine. Their alternative..

cb1
 
This is the belt I am talking about..

cb1
 

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That looks very similar to the Myford ML / Super 7 set up, ......my advice would be ;- if it hasn't GOT to come apart then don't touch it, and run a link belt, ....which is why the makers list link belts as spares !

IMO, as long as they are used properly there's nothing wrong with link belts, ......I've run one on a similar type of lathe drive for well over 20 years without a problem.

Most makers only fit ordinary endless belts during the build because they're cheaper.
 
Taking apart my Clausing Dual and wondering if this is a special bearing. Went through the Timken catalog, but not sure what I am reading.
Don't know if Clausing used them but Timken does make high-accuracy bearings. You best be sitting down when you see the price.
 
Common to have precision class Timkens in a machine tool spindle.. If I may be allowed a personal opinion - its just plain dumb to RUIN what you have - like welding on races to make them shrink - until you have something better in your hand. Class 2 gearbox Timkens ARE NOT machine tool spindle bearings. so they don't fall into the BETTER category - even when spanking new.

In case you don't have this info - precision classes start at 3, then 0 and then 00. All the ones I have handled simply have this designation scrawled lightly BY HAND with some sort of etching device

Do note the second column, Class 2 - has FIVE TIMES more assembled runout than the third column Class 3 - the LOWEST precision class

Scans from Timken Engineering
 

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I've got bearing outers like that out with a bit of careful marking out and drilling from behind. I use a normal 5/16" drill until I hit the face of the bearing. Follow that up with a 5/16" drill ground flat bottomed and you should be able to punch out those outer races.

Regards Tyrone.
 
That looks very similar to the Myford ML / Super 7 set up, ......my advice would be ;- if it hasn't GOT to come apart then don't touch it, and run a link belt, ....which is why the makers list link belts as spares !

IMO, as long as they are used properly there's nothing wrong with link belts, ......I've run one on a similar type of lathe drive for well over 20 years without a problem.

Most makers only fit ordinary endless belts during the build because they're cheaper.

I agree with Limy, my Model 111 came with a V belt on it, and in decent shape. After cleaning up, painting and adjusting the clutch mechanism, I chose to just retain the original belt. If I did replace it, I would use a link belt.

Dan
 
Common to have precision class Timkens in a machine tool spindle.. If I may be allowed a personal opinion - its just plain dumb to RUIN what you have - like welding on races to make them shrink - until you have something better in your hand. Class 2 gearbox Timkens ARE NOT machine tool spindle bearings. so they don't fall into the BETTER category - even when spanking new.

In case you don't have this info - precision classes start at 3, then 0 and then 00. All the ones I have handled simply have this designation scrawled lightly BY HAND with some sort of etching device

Do note the second column, Class 2 - has FIVE TIMES more assembled runout than the third column Class 3 - the LOWEST precision class

Scans from Timken Engineering

Has anyone actually measured run out on modern "gearbox" class Timkens?

The orginal accuracy specs are like 80 years old and manufacturing technology has advanced somewhat since.
AFAIK standard SKF ball bearings in smaller sizes are ABEC-5 in practicality even if they are sold just as a ABEC-1
 
I agree with Limy, my Model 111 came with a V belt on it, and in decent shape. After cleaning up, painting and adjusting the clutch mechanism, I chose to just retain the original belt. If I did replace it, I would use a link belt.

Dan

Dan,

Does your belt on your 111 have a number on it. Any numbers??

Thanks,

cb1
 
Dan,

Does your belt on your 111 have a number on it. Any numbers??

Thanks,

cb1

Looked it over closely...not a single marking. Wiped it down with acetone, still nothing shows. Not on the inside of the belt either. There is a single green strip, 1/4" wide on the outside of the belt, on the same axis as the spindle.

I can get the dimensions of width and depth for you, and even rough (tape measure or string) measurements on length of the inside or outer side. Let me know if that would help you.

Dan
 
Dan,

That would be great when you have time. Top width and length. I will figure that v angle. Automotive and machinery use different angles, not sure what Clausing used.

Thanks,

cb1
 
Has anyone actually measured run out on modern "gearbox" class Timkens?

The orginal accuracy specs are like 80 years old and manufacturing technology has advanced somewhat since.
Yeah, somewhat. Ended up buying the precision ones at $5,000 apiece for a shaper table. Took two sets (cup and cone), too :bawling:
 
It would have come with a belt, as you have to pull the mainshaft to install it. Don't think the company would want you taking apart the lathe to make it run after you just bought it.

I used to have the same Clausing lathe and the manual contained specific instructions on pulling the spindle to install or replace the belt. I think in the 40s they presumed the operator had a little mechanical skill and could be trusted with such tasks.
 








 
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