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Cleaning a starrett indicator face

jeffers

Cast Iron
Joined
Aug 24, 2007
Location
Rhode Island
I recently acquired an interesting starrett indicator with “US Naval Torpedo Station 4-10-40” on the face.
It is very dirty but operates with Starrett smoothness.
Is there a suitable way to clean it without destroying the face?
Are these unusual?
IMG_2753.JPGIMG_2754.JPG


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I've used EverBright metal polish wading and it had worked well, without any damage to clean dials (as well as all exterior surfaces of DIs).

The solvents in the wading cut the grime with a minimum of liquid involved. Then buff surfaces dry with a clean soft cloth.

Use EverBright on the lens also to clean it. Then microabrasive film (start with 15-12 micron, and progressively finer) or headlight refurbish kit to polish the scratches out.

YMMV

EDIT: I just remembered that I had one indicator face that developed black streaks when I cleaned it. I think there were microscopic particles of graphite in there (maybe somebody had used a lock lubricant). Anyway, I rubbed with a soft vinyl drafting eraser (white in color) to remove those streaks. Worked a treat!
 
In many case an ultrasonic cleaner with soapy water (I am using Simple Green)as the cleaning medium will do a nice job.
Toothpaste is a very mild abrasive that I am sometimes using on plastic to clean and polish fine scratches.
 
I've used EverBright metal polish wading and it had worked well, without any damage to clean dials (as well as all exterior surfaces of DIs).

The solvents in the wading cut the grime with a minimum of liquid involved. Then buff surfaces dry with a clean soft cloth.

Use EverBright on the lens also to clean it. Then microabrasive film (start with 15-12 micron, and progressively finer) or headlight refurbish kit to polish the scratches out.

YMMV

EDIT: I just remembered that I had one indicator face that developed black streaks when I cleaned it. I think there were microscopic particles of graphite in there (maybe somebody had used a lock lubricant). Anyway, I rubbed with a soft vinyl drafting eraser (white in color) to remove those streaks. Worked a treat!

if you want to refresh the plastic lens (i assume it is plexi or lexan) use Amazon.com: NOVUS 71 Plastic Polish Kit - 8 oz.: Automotive

works well.

dee
;-D
 
To re-do this properly you will need to remove the bezel (metal that holds the clear crystal) and remove the
crystal from the bezel.

The bezel is often removed by undoing a small snap ring underneath. Some indicators have tiny setscrews
on the side. You need to inspect closely to see what the attachment is.

The sad story is if you use solvents or immerse the crystal in cleaning solution, it will often shrink and then 'fall through'
the front of the bezel, rather than properly snapping in place.

My go-to polish up for plastic crystals like this is Simichrome polish, which I think is basically cerium oxide in a binder.

After polishing you need to remove any polish left over on the surface. Again avoid solvents.

Cutting to the chase, if the crystal shrinks badly or simply does not clean up, you can make a new one.

1) find some lexan plastic of the correct thickness.

2) put some fine grained wood in a four jaw chuck and turn a slightly concave surface.

3) screw the lexan to the front and using a heat gun, soften the plastic and let it conform to the concave surface. (lathe NOT turning)
You can encourage the plastic to conform by wiping with a soft rag.

4) using a trepanning tool, cut out the resulting shape at the correct diameter.

Often the first one you make won't be very good. After three or four, you'll get the knack.
 
When it comes to cleaning the dial itself, try whatever cleaning agent you use on a little bitty (that's a precise technical term) area at either the very edge or at the center hole before trying to clean the whole dial. I completely destroyed the face of a WWII-era gage dial by wiping it with a damp cloth. It turned out that the markings were photo-printed, and the emulsion layer was quite water soluble.
 
To re-do this properly you will need to remove the bezel (metal that holds the clear crystal) and remove the
crystal from the bezel.

The bezel is often removed by undoing a small snap ring underneath. Some indicators have tiny setscrews
on the side. You need to inspect closely to see what the attachment is.

The sad story is if you use solvents or immerse the crystal in cleaning solution, it will often shrink and then 'fall through'
the front of the bezel, rather than properly snapping in place.

My go-to polish up for plastic crystals like this is Simichrome polish, which I think is basically cerium oxide in a binder.

After polishing you need to remove any polish left over on the surface. Again avoid solvents.

Cutting to the chase, if the crystal shrinks badly or simply does not clean up, you can make a new one.

1) find some lexan plastic of the correct thickness.

2) put some fine grained wood in a four jaw chuck and turn a slightly concave surface.

3) screw the lexan to the front and using a heat gun, soften the plastic and let it conform to the concave surface. (lathe NOT turning)
You can encourage the plastic to conform by wiping with a soft rag.

4) using a trepanning tool, cut out the resulting shape at the correct diameter.

Often the first one you make won't be very good. After three or four, you'll get the knack.

Back years ago when I could see, and did not have a tremor I made a good part time living overhauling precision tools. The plastic cleaning method Jim outlined above is what I used with great results. For lighter cleaning I used Harley-Davidson Plastic Cleaner.
Once you get the bezel/lens off hopefully you will find that the face is not too dirty. Any cleaning on the face is likely to remove paint so test a small area first with a little warm distilled water. You can add a drop of Dawn dish detergent as a wetting agent.
If the lens needs replacing you might check with Starrett. It's been many years since I worked on them but I found Starrett still sold many parts for older tools. I would imagine the problem today would be reaching a person with some knowledge.

Good luck. It's a good tool to save!
Walter
 
Indicator faces

I recently cleaned up two Starrett dial indicator faces for a Lufkin Ultrascope (a MicroVue 400 by any other name!) A 0-1 and a 0-2 inch. One was missing the crystal and very dirty, the other had a loose crystal and nearly as bad. I used a q-tip wetted with water and dish detergent. I tried something stronger, but the warning about the faces being painted is very true. It is easy to melt the paint. You will note that there is still a little bit darker area around the needle hubs; not a perfect job but a big improvement.

The loose crystal was too scratched and yellowed to bother with. I bought new ones from Starrett, about $4 each. You can order them through Fastenal or probably wherever you can order Starrett tools. They are flat polycarbonate, and the tricky part is you need top borrow or make a press tool to squeeze them into a dome shape so they can be slipped into the rabbet of the bezel. Takes some fiddling to get it seated all the way around as it wants to jump out of the shallow recess.

Before and after pic attached, though I just noticed not of the same indicator.

-Doug
 

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Gentler Cleaning Agents

Some of the cleaning agents that have been mentioned in this thread are:

Simple Green - This can definitely harm steel if it is not rinsed off. DAMHIKT.

Dish Detergent - This seems "too strong" unless you dilute it with plenty of water.

The next time I'm faced with a task of cleaning something that needs to be wetted with a mild detergent, I'm going to use Murphy's Oil Soap, Original Formula. Murphy's Oil Soap is a Pine Oil product whose maker claims it is fully saponified and thus contains no oil. I will rinse in distilled water.

I've used this on many wooden items and it was very kind to the various finishes. This is my "go-to" cleaner for wooden instrument boxes and chests.

The mention of distilled water is appropriate. "City Water" has Chlorine in it, which is something I'd avoid on a fine instrument.

The advice to test ANY cleaner on a small part of the face is no doubt very good advice.
 
I tried a few kinder, different things. Nothing seemed to remove the soiling on the dial.
Goo gone started to remove the dirt but also started to remove the markings.
I think I will leave well alone as it is the only one I have seen with this inscription.
Probably used at the navy college up the road when they were making torpedoes!
 
Indicator faces

A better comparison view of dish detergent and a Q-tip and a new crystal on the two dial indicators on my Lufkin Ultrascope.

-Doug
 

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