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Jet 2000 Hacksaw

crij

Cast Iron
Joined
Jun 16, 2009
Location
Ct, USA
While the saw I asking about is not antique, the question spans into it.

I recently picked up a Jet 2000 8x8 power hacksaw, and was wondering how it stacked up against the older tried and true power hacksaws? Seems like people mainly talk about Keller and Marvel power hacksaws, but rarely about the other manufacturers.

Also I was wondering if anyone had a manual for the 2000 kicking around, as I can't find anything on the Web.

Thanks,
Rich C.
 
Just thought I would post a followup on this great little power hacksaw.
http://youtu.be/P4zwQ0_7gJw Sorry for the crick in your neck.

These little saws were sold under 2 names JET-2000 (JET Equipment & Tools) in the US market (Europe???) and Murahashi MFG Co., Great Captain, Kilser-200 in other locations. Capacity is 7.88 dia., 7"x7", and 3.25" @ 45 deg, uses 14" blades and fits in a small 41"x17" footprint x 32" tall. As you can see on the left side it has a hydraulic pump to lift the saw after each stroke and to lift the head completely after the cut is finished. Also it has a coolant pump, which I have disconnected because my shop is unheated.

If anyone happens to stumble across one of these, and need a small saw, snap it up, it definitely was built for heavy use. The people over at Jet Tool still had a copy of the manual, and were nice to deal with.

If anyone has any questions about these, feel free to ask.

Happened across this one while driving to work, a local machine shop had a $125 sign on it out front. They had bought it at an auction many years ago as a backup saw, never used it, and needed the space. They happily took $100 cash, so I can't complain.

Rich C.
 
Hey, that's a cool little saw. I have a Jet gearhead drill press I bought at a garage sale 20 years ago or so, use it every day. I paid $895 for it, and would do it again in a split second. I also have a Jet vertical bandsaw, it's paid for itself many many times too. The welder is a bit sketchy but works with enough tinkering.
 
Rich C. I thought I would throw out a tip on sawing bar stock. For better blade life the barstock should be cut across the widest section to put more teeth into the cut. Basic fundamentals for cut off saws.
 
I thought the rule of thumb was three teeth in the cut, any more and you can get chips packing in the gullets between the teeth. At least on a bandsaw I stand things vertically if I can keep three teeth in the cut and it is much faster than cutting the wide dimension. On the little 5x7 I have at home 1/4" x 4" crs standing up is 15sec, on the flat is more than a minute with the blade that's on it most of the time.
 
Does that Jet hacksaw have fine hydraulic adjustment on the feed? If it does you could get away with a coarser tooth in thinner materials, but the breakage happens when (if) the workpiece moves in the vise. A nice design feature would be a design that allows one to change blades quick and easy, keep three or four hanging nearby for different thicknesses.

I learned about tooth spacing right after buying my Jet vertical bandsaw, cutting some thin material and felt something hitting me in the face like hail, for a second I thought it was chips flying up somehow, but quickly realized it was teeth busting off. :-(
 
Conant,

Only problem is I would need to have a 4 or 6 tpi blade, was running with a 14 tpi blade. Tooth loading would have been too low, and would have worn the teeth more then cutting, especially with the rust. Also wasn't sure how hardened the one edge was going to be because it was torch cut. Metal was scrap yard salvage, so wasn't sure if it was low carbon or high alloy, edge of concern was at the bottom so it it was hard, figured it would snap instead of wearing blade.

Rich C.

Rich C. I thought I would throw out a tip on sawing bar stock. For better blade life the barstock should be cut across the widest section to put more teeth into the cut. Basic fundamentals for cut off saws.
 
Partsproduction,

Yep, it has down force adjustment (silver knob to the left of the material at beginning of video), only problem is the shop is unheated and the night before may have gone below zero, so the hydraulic oil was a bit thick.

Blade adjustment is not hard, just a little time consuming, also only recently got this running so I only had 14 TPI blades on hand.

Rich C.

Does that Jet hacksaw have fine hydraulic adjustment on the feed? If it does you could get away with a coarser tooth in thinner materials, but the breakage happens when (if) the workpiece moves in the vise. A nice design feature would be a design that allows one to change blades quick and easy, keep three or four hanging nearby for different thicknesses.

I learned about tooth spacing right after buying my Jet vertical bandsaw, cutting some thin material and felt something hitting me in the face like hail, for a second I thought it was chips flying up somehow, but quickly realized it was teeth busting off. :-(
 
I thought the rule of thumb was three teeth in the cut, any more and you can get chips packing in the gullets between the teeth. At least on a bandsaw I stand things vertically if I can keep three teeth in the cut and it is much faster than cutting the wide dimension. On the little 5x7 I have at home 1/4" x 4" crs standing up is 15sec, on the flat is more than a minute with the blade that's on it most of the time.

I think 3 is the minimum number of teeth that should be in contact with the work at any time.

Here's a couple links to blade guides for power hacksaws and bandsaws.

Power Hacksaw Blade Selection:
Technical Information for the Hacksaw Blades : Pilana

Bandsaw Blade Selection:
Page not found - Ellis Mfg, Inc.

I've been using these guidelines for blade selection for over 30 years and never had a problem with breaking off teeth, or blades prematurely wearing out.

My Power hacksaw is a bit different in that it's a Racine draw cut style with coolant. If the tooth count, down pressure, and blade speed are set properly for the material a blade should easily last a year.
 
Rich C. I thought I would throw out a tip on sawing bar stock. For better blade life the barstock should be cut across the widest section to put more teeth into the cut. Basic fundamentals for cut off saws.

Exactly.

My saws also hold better perpendicularity this way, ... which is much more important to me, than speed.

On larger material, the saw runs unattended anyway, ... so what's the hurry ?


It's good to remember, ... those folks who published that "3-4 teeth" rule, ... probably also sell saw blades. :skep:


.
 
Exactly.
My saws also hold better perpendicularity this way, ... which is much more important to me, than speed.
On larger material, the saw runs unattended anyway, ... so what's the hurry ?

It's good to remember, ... those folks who published that "3-4 teeth" rule, ... probably also sell saw blades. :skep:.


The recommendation comes from the Machinery's Handbook. The 22nd edition published in 1984 has the following text on page 1959 under the caption "Rules For Use Of Power Hack Saw Blades": "At least 3 consecutive teeth should always be in contact with the stock being cut".
 
Nice looking saw.

If I remember correct when I went looking for a manual for the 2000, I contacted customer support at Jet Tools, and they were able to pull one out of the archive.

Oddly enough my saw, when sold in Europe & Asia the model was Great Captain, Kilser 200, and instead of Jet being the brand it was Murahashi MFG Co.

Does your have a crankshaft that pumps a hydraulic cylinder that controls the drop? I can almost see it next to the Vee Belt pulley on the far side. If it is what I think it is, I can forward you a copy of my manual, as it looks like your saw maybe the predecessor to mine.

Good luck,
Rich C.
 
I love these old power hacksaws. Hoping to find one to restore some day. I like the Meddings Hs4, but your Jet lifts on the return which would be easier on blades and probably make smoother cute (just a guess)Also the Meddings is probable not available in the US.
 








 
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