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Logan Model 925 and 955 questions

V

Verseus

Plastic
Joined
Jan 19, 2018
Hey all, one of these lathes is for sale near me ($400) and I was wondering if anybody had any experience with them. This would be my first Lathe, so I'm shooting a bit in the dark. Bed ways looked decent, lead screw was clean, and gears were clean (not smothered in grease, shockingly). The y axis was stiff, but there was plenty of on the rails up there, so it should clear up after a good scrub. It comes with some basic assorted tooling as well. Nothing nuts, but better than nothing.

kKENHvS.jpg


He also has a Model 955 available which uses collets (same price). Any thoughts on one vs. the other?

UD6mZpM.jpg


Any tips, tricks, pitfalls or wisdom appreciated.
 
Looks like the first lathe I ever used (in high school) Nice little lathes. Unless there is something wrong, the price is better than you would ever see around here.
 
michiganbuck said:
Logan is a very good lathe..many were and are used for gun smith lathes..
Small spindle hole so through head not so good..
If it as fair to good you will be able to get your money back.
$400 is a good deal.. if you get it then try to pick up a steady..

http://www.lathes.co.uk/logan/index.html
Click to expand...


That seems to be what I had heard. the 925 is a 10" while the 955 is an 11" with additional (6"?) bed travel if I'm not mistaken. What do you mean by "steady" though?
 
Buy both. Get all the accessories you can with it. Check headstock gears carefully. Those are the expensive ones.
 
Verseus said:
Hey all, one of these lathes is for sale near me ($400) and I was wondering if anybody had any experience with them. This would be my first Lathe, so I'm shooting a bit in the dark. Bed ways looked decent, lead screw was clean, and gears were clean (not smothered in grease, shockingly). The y axis was stiff, but there was plenty of on the rails up there, so it should clear up after a good scrub. It comes with some basic assorted tooling as well. Nothing nuts, but better than nothing.

kKENHvS.jpg


He also has a Model 955 available which uses collets (same price). Any thoughts on one vs. the other?

UD6mZpM.jpg


Any tips, tricks, pitfalls or wisdom appreciated.
Click to expand...

Helped install a sibling, (leveled, shimmed, floor-bolted, made chuck backplates) from brand-new, Peters Twp HS, Washington County, PA 1959 or '60.

Plain-jane as to looks, but more practical, higher throughput lathe than the "Toolroom" SB 10" right next to it, even if a tad less precise.

Pitfalls:

- The pull-rod back-gear engage. Too easy to grab whilst lathe is motating. We replaced broken gears twice, first two school years.

- ball oilers and lack of a proper oiler or the gumption to go get it and use it. The SB's flip-cap Gits got oiled religiously. The Logan's ball oilers, not so much. Look for bed, compound, and cross wear accordingly.

Otherwise, close to as basic as a lathe can be made and still get the job done reasonably well.

Easy to fix whatever needs fixed, DIY if unobtanium, and not that much is unobtanium. Contact Scott Logan, "Logan Actuator", or ask on PM, or prowl ebay and you can keep one of these running indefinitely.
 
If they're both big-bore (1-3/8" for collets) it basically comes down to individual condition. Which one has the least wear, the fewest broken parts (if any) or comes with the most accessories.

Are either of their motors 3-phase? That'd be benefit if you either had 3-phase or wanted to add a VFD. If you don't, then the single phase would be preferable.

All else being equal, I'd prefer the green one as it includes a chuck and a quickchange toolpost.

The white one can take chucks, you just remove the threaded "nose protector" and collet adapter, and screw a chuck on. It's probably 2-1/4"-8 thread, which is very common to find both used and as backing plates for new chucks.

Spindle belts are tough to replace if they the older flat style. If one of the two is flat and the other uses a pair of V-belts, go with the one with the vees. If they're both flat, inspect the belt for wear and damage, and try to pick the better of the two.

Apart from that, I have the nearly exact sister to the white one, and it's been a great machine for years. I recently converted it to CNC. :D

Doc.
 
Well, the same seller has an 1963 Bridgeport j head (pulley) as well. (Forum link to pics I posted: http://www.practicalmachinist.com/v...ills-and-lathes/advice-old-bridgeport-345370/) He's offered to sell both Lathes, a set of 5c collets, an old bridgeport vise, and the mill for $1,500. Not too shabby a deal. The 955 hasn't been run in at least 10 years, possibly more. The 925 (green) was run less than a year ago. I gave the 925 a better inspection than the 955, but both seemed reasonable in terms of condition. There is a spot on the bed ways on the 955 in the bottom pic. I can't tell if its just oil / cutting fluid residue, or if it is wear. Any thoughts?
 
Verseus said:
That seems to be what I had heard. the 925 is a 10" while the 955 is an 11" with additional (6"?) bed travel if I'm not mistaken. What do you mean by "steady" though?
Click to expand...
Logan website sais both the 955 and 925 are 11” swing and 43” bed with 2 1/4-8 thread spindle nose.

Also the green one has a taper attachment cross slide. Need to look for the rest of the taper attachment.
 
My first lathe was a 9'' Logan (changewheel) which had had a hard life before it came to me, ......but that lathe did 2 things for me, ......taught me a lot and made me a good wedge of money in the process :)
 
Th main difference between the 925 and 955 is the base. Ones has a door or drawer on th right and the other does not. Many of the parts and accessories will be interchangable.
 
Monarchist said:
Might have to pad your cell if a tired BeePee makes you believe THAT, old Son!

:)
Click to expand...

First lathe has bar feeder, place next to the wall.
Cut hole in wall for bar.

Next lathe is chucker for second op.

Mill is for any tapping, milling of flats, etc.

All machines have power feed, so you should be able to
keep all 3 humming.....:D

Add in a HF ceemnet mixer with road gravel, toss the finished parts in for quick deburr.
 
digger doug said:
First lathe has bar feeder, place next to the wall.
Cut hole in wall for bar.

Next lathe is chucker for second op.

Mill is for any tapping, milling of flats, etc.

All machines have power feed, so you should be able to
keep all 3 humming.....:D

Add in a HF ceemnet mixer with road gravel, toss the finished parts in for quick deburr.
Click to expand...

Good on yah, but if a HF alleged she-meant mixer and road gravel is in the loop?

You wont mind I just go ahead and buy Chinese parts from the get-go, wilyah?

:D
 
Monarchist said:
Good on yah, but if a HF alleged she-meant mixer and road gravel is in the loop?

You wont mind I just go ahead and buy Chinese parts from the get-go, wilyah?

:D
Click to expand...

Not supplying parts to our military you won't.

Productivity improvement.....add old round raingutter trough
from mill to cement mixer, saves walking.
 
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