My Old AMT Lathe

Ozlander · Apr 15, 2018

Hi,
I'm new here.
I have an old AMT lathe (1905?) that I'm trying to date. I've had it for approx. 40 years and use it from time to time.
Thought I might try cutting threads on it, just to see if I can do it. No Thread Dial, so it may be a pain.
I know how to set the gear box so it's just a matter of starting in the right place.

Been looking at AMT literature and figured out the knows are really clutches except I couldn't turn them by hand. So I my 12 inch channel locks and got them to turn.
The carriage travel I can operate by hand once it out of the detent.
The cross feed I have to use the channel locks to turn.

So, I'm in the middle of removing the apron to do a little freeing up.
Got two slot head 1/2 inch bolts that don't want'a come out.

Greg Menke · Apr 15, 2018

Those star wheels can lock up tight but should turn freely once loose- yours probably has some gummed up old oil in there. Always a chance of a previous repair having messed things up too. The upper star wheel is for the power cross-feed, so if that geartrain is gummed up or otherwise stuck it will definitely cause some cross-feed issues.

The carriage may have to come off the ways for the apron to be easily removed, if you do, be sure to suspend the leadscrew & feedrod with a friction strap or similar. I took mine off with a shop-crane, sliding it off the right end of the bed and hoisting it over to a bench for disassembly.

garyphansen · Apr 15, 2018

What thread per inch is the lead screw?

SouthBendModel34 · Apr 15, 2018

This Calls for a "Manual Impact Driver"

To loosen the slotted screws holding the apron to the carriage, use a "Manual Impact Driver"
This inexpensive tool is ideal for slotted-head or Philips-head screws because part of the impact is converted to a rotational force and part remains axial.

Start with a good penetrating oil such as Kroil from Penetrating-Lubricating Oils. After an overnight soak, begin with fairly light taps; don't get too aggressive or you'll surely break a casting. More Kroil, longer soaking, then more taps if necessary.

My experience with an inexpensive Asian import Manual Impact Wrench has been very positive. It shocks the screw loose, and since there's axial force, it doesn't try to climb out of the slot or Philips recess.

As a bonus, it doesn't need any compressed air nor electricity supply!

If you prefer to avoid imported tools, then Jawco made-in-usa #208 (1/2" drive) or #209 (3/8" drive)Manual Impact Drivers are available from Bowers Tool Co. Lisle would be another likely domestic supplier.

John Ruth

C Clement · Apr 16, 2018

I second John Ruth's suggestion of the manual impact driver. I tried my cordless impact driver on the apron screws on my Hendey but they didn't budge. I made a custom drive bit out of some hex rod that fit the slots on the screws just right and a few whacks on the manual impact driver and they were loose.

Good Luck,

Craig

Ozlander · Apr 17, 2018

I got it freed up. Took about 6 hours over a couple of days of Kroil, heat, beating on my impact drive, repeat several times.
Heat worked on the third bolt, but the last one was stubborn, finally got my big air impact out. I was afraid I would cam out the slot. Took a couple of tries, then all of a sudden it just spun out.
Turns of, I probably could have fixed it by just loosening the nut just a hair.
But I got a good look at the back side and fixed a couple of little oiling problems and got to see how it works.

On the carriage there are a couple of numbers;
8008
24

Anybody got any idea what those mean?
Anybody know if there would a serial number that early (approx. 1906) and where it would be

Ozlander · Apr 17, 2018

garyphansen said:
What thread per inch is the lead screw?

I need to measure that.
There's some Thread Dials on EBay. Might be able to use one if a drilled and taped a hole in the right place.

Ozlander · Apr 17, 2018

SouthBendModel34 said:
To loosen the slotted screws holding the apron to the carriage, use a "Manual Impact Driver"
This inexpensive tool is ideal for slotted-head or Philips-head screws because part of the impact is converted to a rotational force and part remains axial.

John Ruth

I've had one since the early 70's. Can't work on Jap bikes without one.

Didn't take long to go to Allen bolts instead.

I carry it with me on bike trips.

rj1939 · Apr 17, 2018

I can't see for sure, but I assume your leadscrew is in between the rails of the bed. I have one of similar vintage.

Greg Menke · Apr 17, 2018

Some of these design machines have serial #'s some don't. Try looking at the front face of the front way down at the right end of the bed, it'll be there if its anywhere. Those #'s on the casting are not listed anywhere I've heard, I suppose they have to do with part #'s and lot #'s, you may find them repeated on other parts of the machine. My old 14" ATW had a few like that too.

Your machine is late 1890's to not later than approx 1910. "New American" is about the most specific model name I've seen in the ATW brochures, the next model in series is the "High Duty" which has a very similar bed; there have been examples showing what looks like a high duty headstock on a new american bed. There were a number of design changes between the two series though- the high duty's brought geared headstocks, more capable quickchange, leadscrew moved to the front of the bed.

Regards,

Greg

Ozlander · Apr 17, 2018

Some where a bought a set of impact bits (maybe HF). The big slot bit is 10mm wide. I put the bolts back in with my air impact set to maybe 100 foot-pounds, bit looks it hardly been used.

Clownshoes · Apr 20, 2018

Ozlander said:
I need to measure that.
There's some Thread Dials on EBay. Might be able to use one if a drilled and taped a hole in the right place.

If the lathe has a convenient way to change the gear box direction you should be able to leave the half nuts engaged when threading and not have to worry about a thread dial.

Ozlander · Apr 20, 2018

Ozlander said:
I need to measure that.
There's some Thread Dials on EBay. Might be able to use one if a drilled and taped a hole in the right place.

I measured 10 threads = 2.5 inches, so 4 tpi.
Unfortunately, the lead screw is between to ways, makes it a little harder to find a Thread dial.

Ozlander · Apr 20, 2018

Clownshoes said:
If the lathe has a convenient way to change the gear box direction you should be able to leave the half nuts engaged when threading and not have to worry about a thread dial.

There is a lever that you can move to change lead screw direction. No guarantee you wouldn't be off a tooth in you came back. Especially since you would have to do it several times.
The motor reverses, that 20" chuck likes to coast a bit. With practice, I think you could kill the power and back the bit out.

Ozlander · Apr 20, 2018

rj1939 said:
I can't see for sure, but I assume your leadscrew is in between the rails of the bed. I have one of similar vintage.

Yes. (message to short, needs 10 characters)

Ozlander · Apr 20, 2018

I do have another puzzle to work on.

Across the bottom it lists 'Feeds', 8 to 16, 16 to 32, etc. Which makes it appear there is a way to change the gear ratio by 4. Not that I need to, but it's a puzzle.

Any ideas?

Ozlander · Apr 20, 2018

Greg Menke said:
Your machine is late 1890's to not later than approx 1910. "New American" is about the most specific model name I've seen in the ATW brochures, the next model in series is the "High Duty" which has a very similar bed; there have been examples showing what looks like a high duty headstock on a new american bed. There were a number of design changes between the two series though- the high duty's brought geared headstocks, more capable quickchange, leadscrew moved to the front of the bed.

Regards,

Greg

Looking at the ATW brochures, I think it's between the 1905 brochure and 1910.

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