Imgur:
I am no hand at using modern things like computers, but did open your album. One picture of your lathe's apron and partial view of the cross slide did come through. The rest were pictures of your dogs.
You are in luck. I own the same model of LeBlond lathe that you seem to be interested in. I thought I had the only 13" Roundhead Regal lathe painted white, but you found another one.
The lathe you found is a 13" swing Roundhead Regal lathe. Judging by the apron and lack of a larger brass tag for the functions of the feed lever, I'd say you have a WWII era Roundhead Regal lathe.
To answer your questions: assuming the lathe is in good condition, then 800 bucks is a very fair price. The weak link in these roundhead Regal lathes is the higher speed gearing inside the headstock. It is quite light for the service it sees, and it is not uncommon to find these Roundhead Regal lathes with chipped or broken teeth on that gearing. Before you buy the lathe, ask the seller if you can open the headstock for inspection. There are four (4) socket head capscrews holding the top cover down. Make sure the power is turned off at some point other than at the reversing switch for the motor. Most Roundhead lathes had the drum-type reversing switch for the motor mounted on that top cover, so if you went to remove the top cover, the odds are better than not that you'd turn the motor on. Make sure a disconnect or line breaker is opened if the lathe can't be unplugged.
The headstock top cover is usually seated on a compressed cork gasket, which was shellacked to seal it. Bring a dead blow hammer and a piece of hardwood to coax the cover to break free. Bring a small light like a "Mag Light" or similar and a mechanic's magnet on a wand. Go fishing in the oil inside the headstock with the magnet and see if you bring up any slivers or shrapnel. This is a sign of heavy damage. LeBlond has a handwheel on the driveshaft of the headstock, outside the belt guard. This was put there to encourage lathe operators to carefully roll the gearing by hand to shift it into mesh. Use the handwheel to roll the gearing over with the cover off and inspect every gear tooth. Some chipping at the corners from shifting with things not quite stopped is not a good think, but not a deal breaker. Used gears exist for these lathes, so if you do see a damaged gear, be prepared to offer a lower price.
The ways on these lathes are not hardened, and as old as this lathe is, chances are the greatest wear is up by the headstock. You can get surprisingly accurate work out of a lathe with what appears to be a badly worn bed, but there are limits to how worn is too worn. If you can see and feel a ridge worn on the ways of the lathe such that you can catch it with your thumbnail, the lathe has been hard used. Not a deal breaker, but not a lathe that will be capable of toolroom accuracy.
My own Roundhead Regal has slight ridging on the ways, yet I can turn a diameter with less than 0.001" taper in about 6 inches. I "buck the tailstock in" using a test bar I made and a dial indicator for turning longer jobs.
The Roundhead Regal is a very user friendly lathe and as good a first machine as most and better than many. It will run rings around a Southbend lathe. It has a small spindle bore, and is setup to cut only inch-pitch threads. I lucked out on my own Roundhead Regal and discovered it had the extra change gears for cutting metric threads.
It turns a bit slower than modern lathes of equivalent size, and I use mostly high speed steel toolbits which I grind as needed. I like the Roundhead Regal lathe a lot, and get quite a bit of work out on it. Just this past week, I turned two pistons for a Navy steam launch engine in a friend's boat. I cut the pistons undersized, and we built them up with brazing. I then turned the pistons to the new required diameters and re-cut the ring grooves. I hit the diameters right on the thousandth needed.
The low pressure piston was about 8 1/16" diameter and just squeaked over the cross slide. I've done quite a few interesting jobs on my Roundhead Regal and try to baby it to avoid overloading the gearing in the headstock. Still, it has no problem peeling off 0.100-0.125" at a rip from steels like 4140. I've made tooling from old truck axle steel about 1 1/4" diameter and peeled off 0.100-0.125: on roughing cuts with a HSS toolbit, no problem.
Respect the lathe's limits, respect the fact it is not a high speed modern lathe so may not be the ideal for running indexable carbide tools, and respect the fact it has to be stroked and humored to work around the wear in it, and you will be surprised at the work you turn out.