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Questions about problems with Hendey EBM 14 X 8 s/n 24777777759

johncollins

Aluminum
Joined
Jul 7, 2008
Location
Alpine, TX
s/n is 24759

1. Any info on all lube points on this lathe?

2. Is cross slide feed nut adjustable?

3. Is cross slide gib adjustable? (mine is broken)

4. Can quick feed reverse detent be fixed?

5. Carriage feed clutch is stuck open. Cannot turn clutch
knob to engage clutch.

Thanks for any help, John
 
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1 - not that I know of, but there are many. On the Hendeys I owned, many of these had screw-in ball shaped covers

2. CS nut not adjustable. Another source of slop is the nut on far end of CS screw as it passes thru the thrust block that is part of the taper attachment

3. CS gib is adjustable - don't recall if tapered or screws in from side. Usually on worn machines this is a balance of being able to still move the CS at each end of its travel where the wear is much less

4. Yes - may require making new part

5. Get a strap wrench or make a tool to grasp knob and unstick same. This will often require some mild bumping of the the tool or the knob if it is the star shaped version

On edit - possibly useful stuff

Pat's Rehab of a cone head

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/v...ey-14-6-tie-bar-rehab-172446/?highlight=rehab

My old write up on the lead screw reverse / threading system

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/v...ory/hendey-lathe-emergency-113621/#post421468
 
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johncollins:

The Lubrication instructions and drawings are on pages 8 and 9 of the Operator's Manual for the Enclosed Belt Motor Driven Lathes (EBM), (1922). The same instructions apply to the Enclosed Chain Motor Driven Lathes (ECM). Except for the absence of the Belt Release Treadle
used on the earlier EBM lathes, the two styles of lathe are the same. This Treadle was used to stop the Spindle rotation while taking
measurements of the work and at the same time allowed the motor to operate at full speed. With the introduction of the Chain Drive
System, this feature was eliminated.

Hendeyman








this
 
1 - not that I know of, but there are many. On the Hendeys I owned, many of these had screw-in ball shaped covers

2. CS nut not adjustable. Another source of slop is the nut on far end of CS screw as it passes thru the thrust block that is part of the taper attachment

3. CS gib is adjustable - don't recall if tapered or screws in from side. Usually on worn machines this is a balance of being able to still move the CS at each end of its travel where the wear is much less

4. Yes - may require making new part

5. Get a strap wrench or make a tool to grasp knob and unstick same. This will often require some mild bumping of the the tool or the knob if it is the star shaped version

On edit - possibly useful stuff

Pat's Rehab of a cone head

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/v...ey-14-6-tie-bar-rehab-172446/?highlight=rehab

My old write up on the lead screw reverse / threading system

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/v...ory/hendey-lathe-emergency-113621/#post421468

John, tried strap wrench on knob and became concerned that I would break something. Took carriage apron off and can see clutch moving but not enough to engage clutch and cannot turn shaft that pulls clutch in, can push it in and out about 1/4" though so clutch cone is not stuck. So do you (or anyone else) have a drawing of apron that includes clutch assy. on an old Hendey like mine (1923) with knob actuated clutch.

Thanks, John
 
Don't know how much if any carried over but here is the next iteration. Outer lever to do pulling instead of clutch knob

Patent US1972373 - Clutch mechanism for lathe aprons - Google Patents

Probably a first thing to check is interlock shaft coming from half nuts. It is intended to disable (hold disengaged) long feed clutch while using half nuts to thread

Might be stuck etc - in which case you will never get to use that clutch until its working right

Thumbnail is the business side of your apron - with the interlock rod plainly visible. Its only cammed over by the shoe on the lower half nut. Its supposed to spring back into the position that would allow you to use the clutch when the lower half nut is down again
 

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If it could help, here are a few pictures from the clutches of ~1916 gearhead 16x8 Hendey at Tuckahoe (as usual, if you click on one of the pictures, you'll open a larger version of the same):

Internal wall of the apron with worms and clutch assemblies:


By the way: if you haven't discovered already, be aware that the threads of the collars is left-handed:


Partially disassembled clutch: If I recall correctly, the worm-gear spins freely on the hollow shaft whereas the internal cone is keyed to it. The knob is keyed to the internal shaft and at the other end there is a larger thread engaging the male cone (not seen in this picture):


Better view of the internal shaft assembled with the male cone:


Another view of the partially-assembled clutch:


Reassembled apron:


It's more than two years since I last worked on this apron and some details could be fuzzy and obfuscated. One thing I remember is that the design of the end of the internal shaft doesn't look very brilliant and that the shoulder at the end of the large thread is a perfect match to the male cone part and it is rather inevitable that the clutch would lock in the fully-open position.

It is rather easy to remove the interlock bar (remember: it acts only on the longitudinal feeds, since the cross-feed was used also in combination with the half nuts to obtain a certain range of tapers) and that would clarify if your problem is due to the interlock.

Paolo
 
Paolo_MD, thanks for pictures, they helped me a lot.

John, I have carriage feed clutch out. There is no problem with half nut interlock. What I see, as Paolo_MD mentioned, the threads on clutch hub end of inner shaft are jammed with clutch full open. Are these threads right or left? Any ideas?

Next question for hendeyman is how many Hendey's used this type of clutch operation? Do you have any drawings for this clutch, I may have to make new shaft.

Does anyone have any of these parts, salvage or otherwise. I need the male clutch hub and small inner shaft that is threaded into male hub.

Thanks, johncollins
 
John,
I go more by logic than memory: since the function of those threads is to pull the male toward the female cone and since you engage the clutch by turning the knob clockwise, those threads must be right-handed.
The head of one of the inner shafts of our machine has two flats cut on it (I don't recall doing it) that are extremely handy for unlocking, probably even with the apron in place, if you could reach behind with the right wrench.
Before risking to break the shaft by twisting, I'd suggest you to cut/mill similar flats in your assembly. So doing, you also reduce the surface of the shoulder binding with the internal cone.

Paolo
 
Are these threads right or left?

Depends. :D

If knob screws on SHAFT to pull same, then RH

If knob instead screws onto an extension (Lodge & Shipley) of bearing, then LH to pull on rod

All you really need to know is right there for the digesting...

The long feed clutch is disengaged
To engage same you MUST turn knob CLOCKWISE or "right-tight"

Here is a 1914 L&S I fixed for Ray - using LH threads

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/antique-machinery-and-history/lodge-shipley-sr-15169-a-283281/
 








 
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