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Removing Dried Coolant

Frank R

Stainless
Joined
Dec 18, 2009
Location
Dearborn, Michigan
I am having a brother clean this machine. The dark residue is not oil and swarf but dried coolant residue. He has tried conventional cleaning methods like kerosene and diesel fuel to remove it but has had no success.

I just did some research here and dried coolant removal seems to fall into another category than the typical crud. It seems the best suggestions are to use a portable steam cleaner (not a pressure washer! please don't post about the dangers of these) or a strong solution of coolant, applied liberally and allowed to soak in.

Do you have any suggestions on what coolant to buy? Can it be mixed with hot water? The machine is in an intermittently-heated shop. I am thinking that a spray down of warm solution on a cool machine each time he is in the shop will loosen the crud over time.

I don't think the little steam cleaner I have would handle such a large project, except with a lot of time and patience.

Any other suggestions for removing dried coolant (as opposed to oil/grease/sludge)?



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I cleaned up a radial drill covered with all manner of "spuge".
I buy the private label Walmart "carb cleaner" by the case.

It's not too powerfull, but seems to work well with a roll of paper towels.

Be warned, it will take off paint quite easily, so sometimes you spray it
on the paper towel and then wipe the surface, not spraying directly on
the surface.
 
I cleaned up a radial drill covered with all manner of "spuge".
I buy the private label Walmart "carb cleaner" by the case.

It's not too powerfull, but seems to work well with a roll of paper towels.

Be warned, it will take off paint quite easily, so sometimes you spray it
on the paper towel and then wipe the surface, not spraying directly on
the surface.

Thanks Doug, I mean no harm but I hope this post does not devolve into another discussion of crud removal (you know, purple cleaner, Varsol, orange stuff, this kind of solvent, I swear by...) I have not had to remove coolant residue before, it seems to be different.
 
Thanks Doug, I mean no harm but I hope this post does not devolve into another discussion of crud removal (you know, purple cleaner, Varsol, orange stuff, this kind of solvent, I swear by...) I have not had to remove coolant residue before, it seems to be different.
Yup, I hear you.

The point was, I'm not sure what all was on that radial drill, I assume both
dried oil on the column, and coolant was still in the base, so I'm pretty certain some dried stuff was coolant.

If trying to re-constitute it, maybe some way to apply water and leave it applied
as in some rags, taped on to the surface, and re-wetting often ?
 
Probably think I'm crazy but I used vinegar and alcohol mixed 50/50 to clean dried coolant off my monarch. The machine was sitting for over 25 years and the "drip" pan was not coming clean with kerosene or brake kleen so I tried the solution I use to remove lead from gun barrels. works good. spray and let it work maybe 5-10 minutes.
 
On old machines, that ancient staining from black cutting oil has usually penetrated the paint.

On CNCs that sticky coolant residue comes off with Windex. Petroleum solvents like WD-40 don't do much. More aggressive solvents like Brakleen will blast it off but paint will often come with it...
 
If the typical lye based degreaser type cleaners won't get its attention, it may very well be, as oldwrench says, into the paint. A lot of coolants are vegetable oil based, and so is enamel paint (linseed). If those vegetable oils get on the paint and stay there until they fully oxidize, they really do become one with the paint, as it is also oxidized vegetable oil. Whatever you use to cut the coolant oil is probably going to cut the paint, as well.
 
Acetone on a rag, or naphtha, naphtha will be slightly less harsh than the acetone. I'm no expert, just what I use and have had good effect with it, of course with these options you will want very good ventilation. They will take some paint, so if that's of concern then no soaking, they will take an amount of paint regardless but less if you use a rag and are not soaking. Gasoline will also do but leaves a smell that lasts for ages.
 
The many chemists that I worked with and for had a saying. Like dissolves like. If it's petroleum based use a petroleu based solvent. I
f its water based use water. If it's vegetable based use alcohol. If you have knowledge of what they used,this may help.
 
Thanks for all the suggestions.

I talked with my brother yesterday. He said he will wait a couple of days before working out in the pole barn again. It has been in the single digits around here recently. I asked him to test a spot with some boiling water. At least we will find out if it softens the coolant so it can be rubbed off.
 
A cleaner that is often forgotten but is worth a try is household ammonia. I use it all the time to clean the outsides of machines and it works great on the dried soluble coolant i have tried it on. If it is old coolant you need to soak a rag in it and leave it lay for a little bit.
 
I am having a brother clean this machine. The dark residue is not oil and swarf but dried coolant residue. He has tried conventional cleaning methods like kerosene and diesel fuel to remove it but has had no success.

I just did some research here and dried coolant removal seems to fall into another category than the typical crud. It seems the best suggestions are to use a portable steam cleaner (not a pressure washer! please don't post about the dangers of these) or a strong solution of coolant, applied liberally and allowed to soak in.

Do you have any suggestions on what coolant to buy? Can it be mixed with hot water? The machine is in an intermittently-heated shop. I am thinking that a spray down of warm solution on a cool machine each time he is in the shop will loosen the crud over time.

I don't think the little steam cleaner I have would handle such a large project, except with a lot of time and patience.

Any other suggestions for removing dried coolant (as opposed to oil/grease/sludge)?



View attachment 187901
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scrubbing bubbles bath tile cleaner. works good. usually after a couple applications and soaking you just wipe it off.
.
stuff got water and chemicals in it. if you spray on a mill vise it is better to take apart as what gets in cracks will get rusty. i have taken old kurt mill vises apart and they often look new when done other than scratches and milling marks from years of use.
.
scrubbing bubbles bathroom tile cleaner removes oil, grease, soap from grease, fatty substances often put in cutting oil. you need to oil parts when done as they will rust after all oil has been removed
 
Menard's has some stuff called "Clean Strike Heavy Duty Degreaser" made by ECOLAB. That stuff is awesome. put some in a spray bottle, or brush it on, it doesn't seem to harm paint, and a 50-50 mix removes most stuff, or just use it straight.
 
lye or sodium hydroxide in water is a powerful degreaser. it will remove paint and dissolve skin and eyeballs too
.
if you get it on your hands they will feel slimy as that your skin dissolving.
 








 
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