Can you help me identify a lathe?

Looking around, I'm clearly not the only one who has come into a lathe and has no idea what it is, so forgive me another "what is this?" thread. No markings of any kind. Pictures at: https://plus.google.com/photos/1004...ms/5707667588221781217?authkey=CLuNzvnQgtyAfQ

I bought it from a junk dealer in Atlanta (the guy with shed outside at Scott's Antique Show, for any fellow ATL folks listening in) for what I thought was a very fair price considering the condition and the risk I was taking.

From some digging around, it looks faintly like a Barnes, what with the I-beam bed and the arrangement of gears. The style of manufacture seems much later than the ones I see in pictures, so I'm nowhere near sure. Whatever it is, it had been modified over the years; the V-belt pulley on the spindle is most definitely not original. As I'm disassembling it for cleanup I'm starting to suspect I'm not the first person to repaint it, either. (Yeah, I know that destroys the value, but I'm planning on using it, not selling it.)

I'm also a bit of a vintage tool junkie, as the piles of old planes and hand drills cluttering my basement can attest, so if anyone knows the history of this model, I'd appreciate you posting what you know or a good link to info. My google skills are usually strong, but I'm not coming up with good search terms.

--Lewis

W.F.& J Barnes. One of the other members could tell you the model.

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allan

You have a .....

#5 round belt Barnes Lathe, circa 1876-1885. Distinguishing features: Head stock pulley is original, single lead screw, and knob to engage half nut.

Ray

Yeah. These had a stepped pulley that SORT OF mimics a modern V-belt, but was actually made to take a round leather belt.

This belting is still available. McMaster has it as does Page Belting in Concord, NH. Also others online. Be sure to get the fastener (usually a staple thingy) to connect the two ends.

Some folks do use an "A" section V-belt. This will work, kinda, but is not original nor detachable. The belt may tend to turn to the side in the groove in use.

Joe

Surely you guys are pullin' a newbie's chain

Late 1800's? Man, I was thinking maybe 1950's. My wife (also a fan of old stuff) freaked out.

I did take a closer look at the drive pulleys and, in particular, compared them to the motor pulleys. There does seem to be a more rounded (as versus V-style) profile to them, so maybe they are original? That said, was it standard to bolt the spindle pulley to the larger gear? Otherwise my spindle pulley would spin freely around the spindle shaft (it isn't keyed or press-fit). What I'm seeing looks to my eyes like a "make it work" hack.

Good to know McMaster-Carr carries the belts. I've used them before for several things, and they're close enough to pick up in person. Do I need to get the leather belts or will the urethane ones work? The latter look like they can be detached much easier.

That said, was it standard to bolt the spindle pulley to the larger gear? Otherwise my spindle pulley would spin freely around the spindle shaft (it isn't keyed or press-fit).

Click to expand...

What you're seeing is the dog which is normally "engaged" to affix the spindle to the pulley when the 'back gear' is thrown out. This gives you the highest four speeds of spindle. With the back gear "in" you unbolt by sliding the pin - which unlocks the spindle from the large gear. Which gives you the slowest four speeds of spindle - and a multiplication of torque for turning larger diameter objects. .

Having both "engaged" is done frequently as an aid to unscrewing a chuck from the spindle nose. With both engaged it "locks" the spindle in place. Be careful though. With both locked it's possible to break the pin or worse a tooth out of your back gears or spindle.

I would use a leather belt. A lot more forgiving if you get a little grease or oil on them. I don't think you need to have the tool to use the staples - just drill a couple of small holes, put the staple through, and bend it using a vise or vise-grips. (or both)

Joe

Yes, it's that old

It's exciting to find a treasure in the rough.

To engage the back gears and disengage the direct drive:

There is a square headed screw inside the recess of the large head stock gear. Loosen DO NOT REMOVE!!! this bolt. This bolt secures a small tab that slides in a slot to lock and unlock the spindle gear and drive pulley.

My round belt #5 Barnes lathes (circa 1880-1884) with the cast iron seat, cut gearing between pedal crank and flywheel, arrived with a leather "V" shaped belt that works fairly good even though it is deteriorating from age.

A friend found this leather belting advertised in an old McMaster-Carr catalog, and a older mechanic said he used that type belting when he worked in a cotton gin in his youth. The mechanic said, if a belt broke for a quick repair the leather belting was cut to length, stretched around the pulleys on the line shaft, splice/coupling installed and they were back in business. The leather belt would be removed and replaced with a rubber one in the down season.

Another unique feature of your lathe, is how the half nut is engaged and disengaged. The knob has two ramped slots under it that two pins ride in. When turned it engages or disengages by pushing these pins, riding in the ramps.

Ray

timekiller said:

To engage the back gears and disengage the direct drive:

There is a square headed screw inside the recess of the large head stock gear. Loosen DO NOT REMOVE!!! this bolt. This bolt secures a small tab that slides in a slot to lock and unlock the spindle gear and drive pulley.

Click to expand...

I had been wondering what those were for but hadn't had time to investigate properly. I had noticed the pulley was secured on the small end to a small gear but hadn't put 2 and 2 together yet. What you say makes perfect sense now.

Unfortunately I learned the DO NOT REMOVE BOLT lesson the hard way. Fortunately my hands were steady enough to re-seat bolt into the dog.

timekiller said:

Another unique feature of your lathe, is how the half nut is engaged and disengaged. The knob has two ramped slots under it that two pins ride in. When turned it engages or disengages by pushing these pins, riding in the ramps.

Click to expand...

I noticed this when removing the carriage from the bed. One of the pins in mine looked suspiciously like a recycled end mill or drill bit.

Huge thanks to everyone for the info.