Thread: Meet Bertha! U.S. Machine Tool Co. Model VT vertical mill restoration

Thanks for the comments! Since there seems to be a flurry of interest in these machines, I thought I'd add a few more pics to the thread. I ran into a pic limit on the first post.

Tags:




Right side of knee:




Left side of knee (also shows new access door):




Different view of table feed mechanism (lever with black knob engages drive):




That lovely logo:




Manual cover:




My mill back during its stint in the Physics Staff Shop. One of the guys at the shop dug this picture up for me. Sigh...no rust!:

Originally Posted by Glitch

Thanks for the comments! Since there seems to be a flurry of interest in these machines, I thought I'd add a few more pics to the thread. I ran into a pic limit on the first post.


Right side of knee:

I see a major downside, here.

It is TOO damned nice!

'Concours d'elegance', condition, even.

NFW one would want to get it all grubby with oil and chips and such....

Might be OK if you only mill Gold and Platinum... one recovers every spec of the scrap from those, even from floor sweeps, buffer filters, and hand-wash basin traps.

...but base metals? Nah...

;-)

Bill

Glitch,

You invented a useful new term when you wrote:

"There were a number of revelations during this process, one of which was that the knee was completely packed full of brass, aluminum, and plastic chips, fused by hardened coolant and oil into an industrial fruitcake-like substance."

Ha! "Industrial Fruitcake" ! You've invented the perfect name for a solidified mess of chips, coolant, lubricant, and whatever! I'm going to add this to my vocabulary.

What a fine restoration you have done, including using a lot of ingenuity to circumvent the unobtainability of the original bearings.

John Ruth

Originally Posted by SouthBendModel34

Ha! "Industrial Fruitcake" ! You've invented the perfect name for a solidified mess of chips, coolant, lubricant, and whatever! I'm going to add this to my vocabulary.

Have a care. Some of us 'ere might resembl... er 'resent' that term.....

Bill

Originally Posted by Glitch

gk--

I edited my original post to add that there are 2 manual downfeeds: A drill-press-like lever on the left side of the head for coarse feed and a fine downfeed handwheel on the front. These are selected by engaging or disengaging a clutch via a knob on the right side of the head. The fine downfeed is silky-smooth--I can turn the handwheel with one finger.

I know you mentioned that you intended to use a rotary phase converter. If you scrap that idea and get a VFD you can hang ANY 3-phase motor on the back of the machine and have complete control over its speed. They only used the gearbox and step pulleys because there was no alternative 60 years ago. I think that the Lima motor and gearbox are matched units and you can't readily substitute a different motor. If the pulley wobbles it probably means that the gearbox shaft is bent.

Depending on other factors with my mill, such as the cutter head, the stuck overarm, etc., I may do as you suggest. If I can get the rest of the mill working without too much trouble, but the motor or gearbox are trashed, another motor with VFD would be a decent solution.

Thanks for the idea.

gkbikers

Originally Posted by gkbikers

.but the motor or gearbox are trashed

http://www.vuidesign.com/Machines/Burke/images...

...DID have 3 scanned pages of parts info on the Lima / Perfection type RD Adapta-Drive II, 3/4 to 2 HP gearhead motors used on (at least) the Burke #4.

I cannot raise that site just now, but do have copies locally. PM me with an email address that can take attachments of 570 KB to 3.9 MB, and I'll send them to you.

FWIW, I'd suspect wobble is due to worn bearings rather than bent shaft, and AFAIK, replacements for those, and most other wearing parts are still to be had.

Bill

AWESOME!!!

As somebody states up there, THIS gives some hope to those who own a WW2 machine
I Own a lathe, " VITTONI & Cia" Brand that needs some adjustments and cleaning/paiting.

Just for calculation, how much time have you spended in the restauration?

Thanks!

Hi amigo...

Well, I was thinking maybe 50 hours, but my wife just burst out laughing and said *THERE*IS*NO*WAY* I only spent 50 hours on it. So, lets just say "at least 50 hours!"

Incidentally, I worked in an auto body shop off and on for several years during high school and college, so the "body work" wasn't a big deal for me. It might have been a bit intimidating otherwise.

Glitch

You did an excellent job on that mill.
I used to own an identical mill, but it was in very poor condition. After using it for a couple years in my home shop, I ended up parting it out and scrapping the body. The ways were in very poor condition. Also, someone did an "amatuer" rebuild on the head and spindle which caused some damage.
Mine was missing the table power feed, and I always wondered what it looked like. Now I know. It certainly is an unusual setup.

btm

Holy crap... Bertha is a thing of beauty!!! Excellent work. Thanks for sharing.

Originally Posted by thermite

Seems so if one casts and eye over the various Burke, US, US-Burke, US --> Powermatic/Houdaille offerings.

But the R-8 may have been one of the least-common. The stronger, but sometimes problematic as to getting stuff OUT of it, B&S #9 was still a major player in that earlier era, and the NMTB 30, 40, 50 the upper-crust.

I recently sole my Burke Millrite with B&S#9 and replaced with a Bridgeport R-8. The Millrite had a thrust collar on top of the spindle that captivated the drawbar and pushed the collets out when you loosened them, it was much less annoying than tapping the drawbar of the Birdgeport with a soft face mallet to eject the collet . Always kept the spindle socket clean and oiled never had a problem removing them. I could see an issue if it was neglected and a B&S #9 collet was left in for a very long time.

T.R.

wanna make me one?!

Originally Posted by Glitch

Hi amigo...

Well, I was thinking maybe 50 hours, but my wife just burst out laughing and said *THERE*IS*NO*WAY* I only spent 50 hours on it. So, lets just say "at least 50 hours!"

Incidentally, I worked in an auto body shop off and on for several years during high school and college, so the "body work" wasn't a big deal for me. It might have been a bit intimidating otherwise.

Glitch

Muchas gracias!

Again, very good job!

Good Lord;

What beautiful job you've done. Simply gorgeous, and I am seething with envy! Like has been said previously, gives us all hope. I can't help sounding one potentially sour note, however, in thinking that it is a real shame that the original belt drive cowl is not retained. It looks stunning as is, but part of the vintage feel, charm, and originality is lost - in my less than humble opinion - without that hood there. Doesn't look that bad in the photos. Was it so far gone that an old panel beater couldn't save it?

I also have a USMT mill - in my case a V2 - of unknown vintage that I quite like, and would love to have the ambition, drive, and knowledge to do as you have done for your old beast. These old machines really deserve what you have done with this one, and I would give my left... well, a lot, to have a fine piece like you have created.

Much respect to you, Sir. Thanks for what you did!

Thank you for the comments and pics, Redline man. Regarding the knowledge involved...I didn't have any, so don't let that stop you!

I still have the belt guard, so no bridges have been burned. I consider it to be "sorta ugly". Reminds me of a horseshoe crab. I'm keeping it around, however, so it will be easier for the archaeologists to reconstruct the machine.

BTW, I grew up in Syracuse, so nice to see a Vestal guy posting!

Glitch

Nice work, that's a beautiful mill!

Wow! That is just about the prettiest mill I've ever seen! Well done!

Dave

What a fine machine and a fine job restoring it you did. I am new and have been admiring the work you guys are doing on older machines. I am inspired to get started this winter on my 3 hp Webb I just got. I will be asking lots of questions i'm sure. Chuck

That is beautiful.

Great work!

Does anyone have any advice how to sling one of these mills?

I am thinking an endless sling (or reasonable facsimile) fore and aft of the overarm. Perhaps the belt cover will need to be removed. I would prefer not to use a chain.

I just need to lift it (with engine crane) onto the pallet jack, and move it to the door, then build cribbing and lift it level with the trailer bed, then winch it onto the bed.

I will most likely need to ignore the rules of a 60 degree sling, but the mill is what, 1200 lbs, and the 3000 lb strap will be double or quadrupled up.

Unless there are better sling points.