Newman:
Great post, and I really enjoyed reading it. You were riding bikes when I was a kid barely out of diapers. I've been riding over 40 years, so you go way back. Your mention of Indian and working for an Indian Dealer really sounds like it was an interesting experience. A few years back, my wife and I rode over to Rhinebeck, NY to the Antique Motorcycle Association's national meet. In one of the buildings, we saw a pair of beautiful old Indians- an Indian four and an Indian Chief. The man showing them was Butch Baer. My wife and I got to talking to Butch, who had quite a lot to tell us about the old Indian factory and riding for them. He let my wife sit on his prized Indians for a photo or two. Indian folded some 60 years ago, so finding anyone who has a real connection to the original Indian Motocycle (deliberate 'mis spelling') is getting to be kind of rare.
As a kind of funny story: about 20 years ago, I gave my daughter a ride from our house to town on the passenger seat of my old BMW bike. When we arrived in town, one of the oldtimers came over, with his thumbs hooked in his suspenders. He was an old tool and diemaker, and a hardcore train buff. The oldtimer said he had a question he'd been meaning to ask since 1939 and had never met anyone he thought would be able to answer it. He asked about the torque reaction in the bike from the BMW engine, and how it affected handling. I am probably so used to it that I do not notice it. I explained that the BMW has a very low center of gravity, and pretty well compensates for the "P force" or torque reaction from the axially mounted engine. I asked the oldtimer why he had waited from 1939 until 1995 to ask his question. He told me: he had been at the Indian plant in Springfield, Massachusetts, in 1939, and seen the Indian Fours being crated and loaded into boxcars for shipment. Seeing that engine placement in the motorcycle frame had caused the oldtimer to think of the torque reaction and he had it in the back of his mind for a mere 56 years. I asked the oldtimer if he was visiting Indian to take a factory tour, or if he had ever ridden motorcycles. He spat on the ground, growled he hated motorcycles, and the only reason he was at the Indian plant was to take photos of a steam locomotive switching cars on Indian's siding.
You are correct about people and talking about motorcycles. My wife and I sometimes take Sunday rides, and wind up in little cafe's for a cup of coffee and a slice of pie. This one Sunday also a good 10 years ago or so, my wife and I were sitting in a cafe in a little village, having coffee and pie. An old man and his wife came over to our table. The oldtimer saw by our leathers that we'd ridden there on a motorcycle. His wife had his elbow and was trying to head him off. It turned out the oldtimer had started riding on a 1936 Harley he had bought for 25 bucks with a seized engine. It was a couple of years old at the time, and the original owner's wife insisted the original owner get rid of it. The original owner stuck the bike in a chicken coop, and employed the man I was talking to- a kid at the time- as a dishwasher in his cafe. Anyhow, the fellow I was talking to bought that Harley and he and some friends at the local garage freed up the engine, honed the cylinders and put new rings in. He learned to ride that Harley and rode with some other fellows in the days before WWII. He explained a joke he'd play on the Indian riders. Apparently the Harley had the manual spark advance control lever on one side of the handlebars, while Indian had it on the opposite side. The Indian riders would knock the Harley, and he's say: "well, if you think my Harley is so bad a motorcycle, take a ride on it and tell me what you think after that..." The oldtimer would never tell the Indian riders where the spark advance was at, and let them think they had retarded the spark when they were actually working the choke. The Indian riders would try to kick start the Harley with the spark fully advanced, and that would generally result in a wicked kick back and occasionally launch an Indian rider up and over the bars.
The oldtimer asked if I understood what he was talking about, and I assured him I knew about manual spark advance and retarding the spark for starting. With that, he launched into quite a history of riding and old bikes. He told us he knew what BMW bikes were because he had ridden some captured German Army BMW's during WWII. We were having a wonderful time, and the man's wife was asking my wife if her husband was talking too much. My wife said that she was enjoying seeing the oldtimer enjoying himself. The oldtimer did tell us that I was one of the few people he'd run into who knew what a manual spark advance was, and understood what he was talking about. Moments like that, unfortunately, are almost a bygone thing as that generation of riders rides off into the great beyond.
I can fully understand and respect your assessment of BMW bikes. They are smooth running, incredibly forgiving machines. A Harley has an entirely different feel to it, just as a classic British bike has its own feel. I've owned and ridden all three. Each has a different style of riding, a different feel, and the British bike and the Hog do seem to seep into a person a lot differently than an old BMW. I remember the first time I rode a Hog, many years ago. It was the same sort of feeling I would get in the cab of a steam locomotive, a solid, powerful lugger. I enjoy my Dyna Lowrider a great deal, or I would not have gone ahead with the engine work to correct the problem with the camshaft drive chain. I went for an S & S geared camshaft drive, and, in a weak moment, listened to a couple of oldtime Hog mechanics a little too long. They convinced me to order a set of .510 cams from S & S, which are a little hotter than stock. Other than that, when we pulled the engine top end down, I saw the makings of some wear in the cylinders at 45 K miles. The engine was starting to use noticeably more oil. I was thinking in terms of honing the cylinders and putting in a new set of rings, and lapping in the valves. As luck would have it, a local Hog mechanic had a set of Dyna Lowrider jugs, pistons and heads with 500 miles on them- the owner of the bike had him put a Screamin Eagle big bore kit on that bike. So, I swapped out the jugs, pistons and heads and freshened up the whole top end. I had also been noticing some oil mist collecting on the engine cases under the air cleaner after hard and continuous running on the interstates. Since I was pulling things down, the answer was to put in an S & S crankcase diverter plate.
The result is a good runner with some snap to her. It took a little tinkering with the carburetor jets, and going to a less restrictive baffle in the mufflers. The Hog has a nice throaty sound, not crackly, not overly loud, but a nice solid exhaust sound when she is accelerating or pulling load. Working on large medium speed diesel engines and locomotives and hearing them pull load, I like the sound that resulted after I sorted out the muffler baffling. I am old school, so go by "reading the sparkplugs". The bike still has the basic stock CV carburetor, which is fine by me. With the modifications, the bike cold starts a lot easier and idles a bit smoother. When the bike left the HD factory, it was set up way too lean to meet EPA standards. I had a lean miss straight out of the showroom in 2004. I went up a couple of jet sizes back then, and now, after the change in camming and less restrictive exhaust, up another few jet sizes. I feel the difference on a long steep upgrade near my house. We test the motorcycles to see what they have by doing a top-gear roll on at the foot of that grade. Before I changed cams and made the other changes, the bike bogged a bit in fifth gear, kind of hitting a flat spot and not having any more acceleration with the throttle twisted to the stop, doing about 65 and pulling a steep grade. With the new cams and the less restrictive baffles in the mufflers, a fifth gear roll on produces a steady acceleration on up that grade, and I have to ease off on the throttle before I reach the top of the grade. It seems to be a good combination of things, and I will admit to loving the feel of a Harley engine, imagining those big flywheels when the engine is winding up and pulling hard.
I agree wholeheartedly with you: true motorcycle riders love to talk about motorcycles, and even if they were strangers at the onset of a conversation, they do not stay strangers for long. I do not know about the modern sport riders, but the folks who ride the real iron- the Hogs, old Airheads, or old British iron seem to find an instant camaraderie. My wife enjoys it as well, when we are out and about on one of our bikes. It's funny to realize that the people I regarded as "oldtime riders" are mostly gone on that ride into the great beyond, and now I am one of those oldtimers. Talking about coil and points ignitions or carburetors, or running motorcycle wheels with inner tubes is stuff the younger riders have never experienced. Even wearing leather to ride seems on its way out, as "ballistic fabric" riding jackets and pants with body armor seem to be taking over. I hear the younger sport touring riders talking of having "Bluetooth" in their helmets so they can receive directions from their on-board GPS, or cell phone connections. To me, riding a motorcycle was always about being one with the machine and the road, as basic and simple as it gets. If I needed to go somewhere, I looked at a map and memorized directions. In complex locations, coming into a strange town or city, I might write the directions in large printing and tape them to the gas tank. In most cases, I followed my nose and sense of direction, looked at the sky to determine which way I was headed if the road signs did not say "North, South, East, or West". I like to say my motorcycles have their own souls and are good horses. Sometimes, when I'd be in a bad way over events in my life, I'd take a long solitary ride over back roads. I'd do the equivalent of "dropping the reins" on a good horse, and let the bike seemingly take me where it wanted to go. We'd meander over miles of back roads, which is easy enough to do in the Northern Catskills or NY State. Sooner or later, it would seem like when I was ready to head for the barn, the bike would sense it and I'd snap into the present and be ona familiar road headed home.
One time, a few years back,on Labor Day, I was riding my Harley from NY State out to Omaha. Out on the interstate, I was coming down a grade in a 65 mph zone, and the Hog had the bit in her teeth, rolling at about 90. I blew by a State Trooper in the weeds at the foot of the hill, and I saw him immediately pull out. Before he had his lights fully on, I was signalling right and braking. I had the bike on the shoulder and both feet solidly on the pavement when he got out of the cruiser. I had both hands lightly on the handlebars, fingers spread wide, and my shield was up. The trooper approached and I figured he might be a hard ass since I was riding a Harley and in full black leather. He asked me for my license and registration. I asked his permission to stand up, remove my gloves, and reach for my wallet. He said OK, and I gave him my documents. He then asked if I knew why he had stopped me. I told him: I was running in excess of the posted limit. He asked if I knew how fast I was running, and I said, "about 90 mph." He then asked why I was riding that fast. I told him: "No good reason or excuse. This Harley is like a good horse and she took the bit in her teeth on a nice day, and I gave her her head." The trooper laughed and said he needed to check me out and headed to his cruiser. I figured it would be my first speeding ticket in over 35 years, and was dreading the idea of points on my license. The trooper returned after awhile. He said: "Lookit Mister Michaels... you have a commercial driver's license, and up until now you have had a clean record. You don;t need no trouble. You are 60 years old, probably have a family, and seem like a solid guy. I'm gonna write you up for 'failure to follow a sign', which is a non moving violation. No points on your license, no trouble afterwards. How does that sound ?" I told the trooper he was a gentleman and thanked him. He told me that he had probably done me a favor in stopping me as running at the clip I was running, there is no telling what might have happened in Labor Day weekend traffic. He asked me about riding to Omaha, and my family and what I did for a living, and we had a nice visit. I asked if he would mind shaking hands, and we did shake hands. I took my ticket, and when I got to Omaha, I sent a Western Union money order to the Justice of the Peace who would be handling the ticket. I suppose the trooper appreciated some honesty, and appreciated a man telling him he enjoyed letting a Harley run. Not a bad encounter as these things do go. To finish the job in fine style, the JP refunded me part of the fine and I never bothered to figure out how that happened.