I just bought a 1987 Mitsubishi DWC 90C Wire. It took about 4 weeks to get it hauled home, get my phase convertor hooked up, and get the machine hooked up. Now when you turn the power on the screen comes up fuzzy and none of the led lights on the controller come on. It was under power and I ran it before I bought it. Its been about 6 weeks now and its sitting in my shop not burning. Can anyone tell me what I need to do or look for?
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Mitsubishi DWC 90C HELP!
- Thread starter codywmi
- Start date
- Replies 13
- Views 10,501
Dave Haven
Cast Iron
- Joined
- Nov 17, 2004
- Location
- Near Flagstaff, AZ, USA
As this is your first post, Welcome to the Practical Machinist forums!
It sounds like your system software needs to be reinstalled.
If your DWC 90C is anything like the 1996 SX20 machine that I run at work, the internal backup battery needs to be kept charged to maintain the system software in the machine's memory. It needs power to do that.
If your machine is like the SX20 and has a backup battery, it wouldn't hurt to replace the backup battery while you're at it. It's a lead-acid battery with a finite life. If you're running it on a phase converter, you'll need to devise a way to keep the battery charged when you're not using the machine. The battery is only intended to keep things in memory during brief power failures.
Hope this helps.
It sounds like your system software needs to be reinstalled.
If your DWC 90C is anything like the 1996 SX20 machine that I run at work, the internal backup battery needs to be kept charged to maintain the system software in the machine's memory. It needs power to do that.
If your machine is like the SX20 and has a backup battery, it wouldn't hurt to replace the backup battery while you're at it. It's a lead-acid battery with a finite life. If you're running it on a phase converter, you'll need to devise a way to keep the battery charged when you're not using the machine. The battery is only intended to keep things in memory during brief power failures.
Hope this helps.
WILLEO6709
Diamond
- Joined
- Nov 6, 2001
- Location
- WAPELLO, IA USA
look for the exec tapes. its most likely a w1 controller. Relopading it is either via "cassette tape" or floppy disk. In your case you might need a mits field rep to come out and show you the reinstall procedure. the phone is your friend, call mits, they may be able to talk you thru it.
MitsTech
Stainless
- Joined
- Feb 5, 2006
- Location
- New Jersey
The backup batteries are dead, they only have a shelf life of several days before they are depleted.
You should have several disks that came with the machine, and the owners manual will clearly describe the software loading process. It's a pretty simple procedure, really. Also I suggest reloading the software roughly every 6 months or so.
I am guessing you have this in a home or part-time environment since you are running an RPC? Are you using a transformer on this machine? The incoming voltage, depending on how it is tapped, is 200-220 volts. The critical thing is the 100v line is fairly close to 100v. You can measure this on the PD14 on the terminals labled "AC IN".
Also, when you hook up the RPC, put the manufactured leg on the "T" terminal on the machine breaker (referred to as the NFB, or No Fuse Breaker in Mits documents). This way any voltage fluctuations on that circuit will not affect the controller, the transformer for which is tapped off of R and S terminals. Make sure you check pump rotation direction after you get it running.
You should have several disks that came with the machine, and the owners manual will clearly describe the software loading process. It's a pretty simple procedure, really. Also I suggest reloading the software roughly every 6 months or so.
I am guessing you have this in a home or part-time environment since you are running an RPC? Are you using a transformer on this machine? The incoming voltage, depending on how it is tapped, is 200-220 volts. The critical thing is the 100v line is fairly close to 100v. You can measure this on the PD14 on the terminals labled "AC IN".
Also, when you hook up the RPC, put the manufactured leg on the "T" terminal on the machine breaker (referred to as the NFB, or No Fuse Breaker in Mits documents). This way any voltage fluctuations on that circuit will not affect the controller, the transformer for which is tapped off of R and S terminals. Make sure you check pump rotation direction after you get it running.
htmdngeary
Plastic
- Joined
- Oct 10, 2007
- Location
- Tennessee
Can anyone here help me with a situation. I need to burn a 1.800 hole in a 1.250 thick tool steel piece. I have the starter hole and machine is ready to burn. Our program guy is on vacation. I wanna manually program this if possible. Please help. Hot for customer now!!
Thanks.
Thanks.
Go to walmart and buy a powerwheels battery for $30, they work great. Also something to consider, since you are running this machine at home, the machine needs to be on almost ALL the time to continue to charge the battery. IF you plan on shutting the machine off, or if it will stay off for days at a time, get a inexpensive "trickle" charger and leave it plugged into the battery to keep the charge and save the software in memory.
I have a Mitsubishi sinker in my garage and this is the setup I do to ensure the battery will stay charged as I dont leave my DPC or machine on when I shut the shop down at night...
Good luck.
Zahnrad Kopf
Diamond
- Joined
- Apr 5, 2010
- Location
- Tropic of Milwaukee
Steve - Can you give any insights into exactly what type of charger you are using and how you are using it? Been thinking of the same thing lately, but intended for the control's 3.6VDC NiMH memory battery. Thanks.
dsergison
Diamond
- Joined
- Oct 23, 2003
- Location
- East Peoria, IL, USA
I can tell you how to do it for my machine. just substiture a 3.6v charger for my 5v
wall-charger, and buy a relay. pm/email me.
the executive summary:
find some sort of power that turns on whrn you turn the machine on. something non critical like a 110v cabinet fan (just my opinion). buy a cheap little relay that works at that voltage. hook it up to that switched source. then hook your small ~700mA regulated radio shack charger of the style used for powering a cordless phone etc... plug it in to an independant external outlet and connect it to the battery through the relays switched side.
be damn carefull you don't 110v the batteries! hire it done if your not comforable, etc.....
wall-charger, and buy a relay. pm/email me.
the executive summary:
find some sort of power that turns on whrn you turn the machine on. something non critical like a 110v cabinet fan (just my opinion). buy a cheap little relay that works at that voltage. hook it up to that switched source. then hook your small ~700mA regulated radio shack charger of the style used for powering a cordless phone etc... plug it in to an independant external outlet and connect it to the battery through the relays switched side.
be damn carefull you don't 110v the batteries! hire it done if your not comforable, etc.....
Zahnrad Kopf
Diamond
- Joined
- Apr 5, 2010
- Location
- Tropic of Milwaukee
Perfect. Thanks Dan. I had been wondering exactly that (how to stop/start the charging
for when the machine IS powered) and had not even thought of a relay. Good thinking! Thank you.
for when the machine IS powered) and had not even thought of a relay. Good thinking! Thank you.
Looks like Dan beat me to it lol.. But anyhow as far as the 6v battery in the cabinet, I just used the wall charger that came with my sons power wheel toy. I leave it plugged in all the time, regardless if the machine is on or off. The voltage was consistant when I checked it (machine power on or off) Its a simpe setup and has been great for the 7 months I have had the EDM.
Nothing worse than having to do a software reload.
Just curious why you need to charge the NiCad on the memory board?
Zahnrad Kopf
Diamond
- Joined
- Apr 5, 2010
- Location
- Tropic of Milwaukee
Yep. After hearing from e everyone (including two EE's I know that I had reached out to), that is the way I'm heading. (Wall wart and a relay)
It is a NiMH and it's bad right now. Only measures 2.5 VDC and should be 3.8 VDC. So it's getting replaced. The problem is that they normally stay charged as the machine is plugged in/wired in permanently but ours is running off of an RPC. So, when the RPC gets shut off, so does the battery's charging. While it's most likely never going to be an issue ( because I can't see not running the WEDM for more than a few days at a stretch ), I just want to make sure all my bases are covered anyway. I'm wierd like that.
It isn't THAT big a deal. Only takes me about 15 a 20 minutes. But I certainly do want to minimize my hassles.
Thanks.
Software reloads are fairly quick, I agree.. (especially if you take the time for a backup disk) but I am always worried the one day when my software disks become corrupt. I personally havent registered my EDM with mitsubishi, so the trickly charger on the battery backup is the best thing going 
eTekTool
Aluminum
- Joined
- Mar 13, 2010
- Location
- Cedarburg, WI
I had a Battery tender on my 90C, worked great. Now just working on my disk and disk drive problem.
It looks like this thread was started 6 years ago...
It looks like this thread was started 6 years ago...
I hope you're still around and you get this since this thread is a few years old. With your help I have discovered that this small battery is my problem as it's only putting out about 2 Volts. If I just replace it will my memory stay intact, or is this just memory storage for EDM NC code, and not the systems operational memory? I don't have a clue if we even have the original system disks/tapes kicking around, but if I find them I'll back it all up on our server, and then post it for download so others can re-create the disks if needed.