getting a old machine motor rewound?

Hello I have a old motor fitted to a bandsaw which has worn out and rubbing on the cage down to the bear wires I don't want to chance it. the motor is .5 hp three phase and flange mounted to the chassis of the bandsaw it's self. the flange it is mounted on seems to be a special casting.

so is it common for someone to go and get a low hp three phase electric motor rewound, or it is simply too expensive for us hobbyists.

only an insulation problem?! EZ fix sumtimes

Since there's no other help, lemme give it a shot for you.
If there is only abrasion damage on lead wires, why not use a suitable heatshrink on the leads... PTFE or whatever is appropriate; check the specs- shrink ratio, temp ratings, etc... coil winding repair procedure includes seperating the individual wires (if there is unwanted continuity -shorting- between them... otherwise you may be OK if theyre left where they are) and re-applying new insulating 'varnish' on the wires. Nowadays there are synthetic coatings to replace the old fashioned coating, but the 'dielectric or insulating varnish' stuff is available from most well-stocked supply houses in self-spray cans. Dont get the wrong stuff for insulating high-voltage fly-back coils at 1500kv for TV/CRT repair- thats often a heavy putty. The right stuff is just like regular spray-paint, perhaps thinner,so more prone to being runny. Its probably been on a shelf long, long time, so shake it very long & well to get ALL the solids mixed in with the vehicle or it wont perform as intended.

Fix the cause of the abrasion too.

Its not economically feasable for most motor shops to rewind small motors... check prices on Ebay for used motors sized similar to yours and its self-explanitory.

Good luck with the job, though. Its already broken so there isnt much damage you can do, huh? 'Trick is to keep the 'magic smoke' inside the motor.

"so is it common for someone to go and get a low hp three phase electric motor rewound, or it is simply too expensive for us hobbyists"

It is uncommon for hobbyists to have rewound any motor for which there is a reasonably close generic substitute available.

OTOH, certain machines use motors with a unique frame size, and perhaps a unique number of poles, or multiple pole combinations.

Most motor shops are now using a "flat rate" book, often Vaughan's, which gives the average shop time in hours to rewind a motor. This shop time is then multiplied by the shop rate to give the wholesale cost to rewind the motor. The shop's profit and/or retail mark-up is added thereupon.

For example, a 0.75/0.375 HP constant torque 4/8 pole "consequent pole" motor for a Hardinge lathe costs about $440 to rewind from 230 volts to 460 volts, or vice versa.

Repairing a failed motor would cost the same, and a voltage change could be accommodated at that time.

Basically, the "flat rate" book is indexed by the motor's frame size, its lowest rated rpm, its highest rated HP, and possibly its voltage.

Most motor shops are now using "inverter duty" wire and insulation, anyway, so that, at least, is no longer an extra cost.

It is not uncommon for motor shops to be asked to rewind instrumentation motors, including tachometers, and most shops are prepared to do this job as well.

Given that a 1 HP 3 modern 3 phase motor is probably smaller than the original one and costs around A$20 secondhand, I would adapt a new motor which will also have the 240V delta connection option.

If your machine is belt drive get a small flange motor (grundfoss pumps are a good source of these) and machine an adpater ring.

If you have no lathe take the original motor apart and keep just the mounting flange end, cut drill and generally butcher it to allow the new motor flange to bolt up.

Given the cost of a small bandsaw I would throw it away before getting a motor rewound, quality mid size light duty bandsaws usually sell for less than A$500 second hand.

it's all good I got the machine running after much stuffing around, cheers for your help everyone, now I can get on with building my car, BTW i was fiddling with the vfd and noticed and was very impressed with it's operation I could use it when cutting big things in my 9 inch lathe.

Look before you leap. You don't saw wheter it's a wood o metal cutting bandsaw.

If it's a wood cutting bandsaw, they run at 3000 ft per minute there abouts. If the motor is direct ounter to the saw fram chance are it's direct coupled to the lower bandwheel. It runs at a lower than usual RPM and has a beefed shaft and front bearing for the lower band wheel. Verify that before you rush off and track down a substitute motor.

If the stator of the existing bandwheel motor cannot be salvaged due to wear it may be possible to change it out with either a jack shaft in the old motor's axis or the statror is replaced with another would witht he same number of poles etc. Either way will be labor intensive and expensive.

If it's a metal cutting bandsaw a replacement motor with a C face and a home made adaptor flange might work provided the shaft can be adpted to work with the drive. Be careful of RPM's. If the RPM's aren't right as a result of a motor swap, the saw will be a PITA to run.

"If it's a wood cutting bandsaw, they run at 3000 ft per minute there abouts. If the motor is direct ounter to the saw fram chance are it's direct coupled to the lower bandwheel. It runs at a lower than usual RPM and has a beefed shaft and front bearing for the lower band wheel. Verify that before you rush off and track down a substitute motor.:

Delta (and its Crescent predecessor) made several apparently identical machines in both wood-only and wood/metal versions.

To lower costs, the wood-only versions were often direct drive, using a very special motor which provided both the motor function, and the lower wheel mounting function.

Later wood-only models used a separate motor, and an independent lower wheel mount.

It was at this point where the wood-only and the wood/metal models began to have significant parts and system commonality.

In the final incarnations of these machines, the wood/metal version was essentially the wood-only version, but with a power transmission, often a Reeves drive, between the motor and the lower wheel.

In certain models, the wood/metal cutting table was, indeed, built heavier than the wood-only table (the 20" size, in particular).

Usually, the wood/metal version included a blade welder, whereas the wood-only version did not.

Grob, and others, followed a similar concept.

it was a Atlas Crypto metal bandsaw it ran a fange mount motor onto a reduction gearbox. blade looks to be more than 18 tpi on it. the blade seems to be coping pretty well I tested it on a large bit of steel lintle, and it copes rather well, might be due for a new blade tho. ( btw the machine is about 300kG)