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Haas Coolant???

customworks83

customworks83

Aluminum
Joined
Mar 8, 2008
Location
Compton, CA
Hey guys,
I have a TM-1 in my garage and I'm running out of coolant. i haev a 5 Gal bucket of TRIM brand coolant (maybe trimsol) but I can't find any identifying number on it. what kind of coolant do you guys use? I was about to buy another 5 gal. bucket from Enco (free delivery) but there's like 3 or 4 different kinds. help anyone?
-Andres
 
Haas coolant

Depending what type of material you will be cutting .Synethetic coolants are not as oily, messy and don't smell bad after a few months,buy they're higher in price.
 
I've tried rustlick, trimsol, hangsterfers, some generic mcmaster-carr brand, and the latest is Blaser blasocut2000. So far I like the Blaser the best, but It's only been in the sump for a few months, so time will tell.
 
I will be cutting aluminum for the most part. A 5 gallon bucket Trimsol is about $70 and I don't consume much. Where can I buy Blaser blasocut2000? how much is it?
 
I user Blaser 2000 Universal.

It's been in the machine for over a year without changing it, and as long as I make sure to keep oil and particulates out of it, it's good as new.
 
re

running blaser 2000cf for about 5 years now. perfect. If the machine sits for a few weeks in the summer, it gets very slightly sour, but not 'bad' it's fine once you run it[aeration]
 
Big Blaser fan here, I run the 4000 series, has double the amount of slippery stuff in it, 6% chlorinated parafins opposed to 3% in the 2000 series. $2 more a gallon, big deal.


Had a 120 gallon sump that was 3 years and running when I left that dump.

You're susposed to maintain it, but you can treat it pretty bad, and it still won't stink. The quickest way that I've seen Blaser go bad is with soap. I had one employee trying to "be good" clean the inside of a machine with simple green, that sucker stunk after a couple of days, ran a really hight concentration, almost 20% for a few days and the sump was back to normal, syphoned(sp?) the extra for the band saw.

I always treat my sumps like a fish tank, and they are fine, don't pee in them and keep them clean, really simple.
 
Bruno Batalia said:
is blasser full synthetic or soluble? I run alot of 316SS I use hangstferss now but am looking for something new/better
Click to expand...

Blaser sells all kinds of weird stuff from full synthetics to veggie based cutting oils, but their standard 2000 and 4000 series coolants are a soluble.

Don't fall into the trap of "synthetic" sounds better, I much prefer a soluble. I spent about 4 hours one day talking to a Blaser rep. This guy was insanely passionate about coolant, he ate and breathed coolant. I got myself one hell of an education.

The only real difference between a synthetic and a quality soluble is mineral oil. The advantages of the soluble are inherent rust protection, and the oil prevents all the good stuff that you are paying tons of money for from evaporating, the soluble when mixed properly should give you better heat distribution properties also.

On your Hangstwhatever coolant, its the only other coolant I would consider using, I use Blaser because I can get it locally, even the Blaser rep said that Hangstwhatever is a damn good coolant, you may be able to change to a different formula.
 
We use Motorex SwissCool 7733. The dealer we bought our machines from sells it. It's semi-synthetic, when it's mixed it's a white color like soluble oil. It lasts a long time, I've never had it start smelling, and it lubricates really well. We just bought a 5 gallon bucket of it, it ran around $110.
 
Call Chuck Vic @ Perkins Products. It is the best bang for the buck. That is what we have used for years. They are out of Chicago area. We switched one of our companies from blaser to perkins. We run anything from inconel, titanium, alum., stainless steel, steel, plastic, brass and many others all on the same brand.
 
Hello,

I used blasers blasocut 2000 I thought i better get some good coolant with the new machine ...it was all high tech and passionate for coolant with the guy from blaser( put the blaser sticker on the tank and machine before you can say coolant! )...anyway i got black marks under anything i put on the table ( in a few hours , not a day or two ! ) so he gave me some antirust spray so I could spray it under the object and on the object of course wipe it before so its perfectly clean....Huh...:rolleyes5: I payed 50 % more for this coolant and have 50% more work with it just too perform the same as the coolant my friends use with no such problems...I hope this was is an isolated case becouse i heard just good stuff about blaser on the internet... now I have used it all...at last and will try some other brand I will report if i have the same problems with it...
 
I'd be happy to take a picture of my '01 SL10, '02 MiniMill or the '04 MiniLathe!
They do not have a single spec of rust, and they all use Blaser 2000 from day one.
I can also take pictures of the '06 VF4 and the '07 Mori. They use Hangsterfer's, and the ways have rustspots, toolholders left in the turret have rustspots, under the vise has rust, behind the visejaws there is rust, paint around the carousel or above the spindle is softened.

I'm the only guy changing, adding and checking the coolant. They all run the same parts, same schedules in the very same 1600 sq' area.
 
SeymourDumore said:
I'd be happy to take a picture of my '01 SL10, '02 MiniMill or the '04 MiniLathe!
They do not have a single spec of rust, and they all use Blaser 2000 from day one.
Click to expand...

I was confused when I saw that one too. I've actually used Blaser to remove rust. A machine that I brought in that was obviously using a bad synthetic, a lot of rust on the table and way covers (ways were good though). After 2 weeks of running Blaser, the rust was all gone, and the places where it had bloomed really bad on the covers, are black stains.

Acuvue, before jumping to another coolant, I would analyze what went wrong, because something went wrong. Concentration, waylube, are you adding anything to the coolant, cutting oils that may no be compatible, do you have a tobacco chewer spitting into the machine? Does your water have some weird chemicals in it.

I'm not doubting you have a problem, I would just like to know why?
 
well,

i think its not rust becouse i can wipe it off with wd40 but a little mark is still there ( its helpful for getting the piece on the same place :D ) Blaser salesman said that there is some chemical reaction going on he couldnt really explain...he made the first batch himself ( checked the tap water ) with the expensive blaser mixing thingy and checked it with a refractometer...and the problem was there from the beggining it isnt like it started to happen when the mix got old...

I will try some other coolant and report back if the problem still persists then its not blasers fault and I will write that with BIG letters :)
 
Edster

Yes. I'm trying to exhaust the remaining supply of the coolant, clean the sump and then switch over to Blaser in both of them.
 
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