Coolant Drool

Has any of you guys attempted and succeeded in modifying the coolant nozzles to stopping the coolant flow dead on after an M08?
I hate the fact that after stopping the coolant motor the miserable thing keeps pissing for just long enough to shower the shank of the holder and the inside of the toolchanger.
I was thinking of putting a spring loaded check valve right at the coolant block on the head, but not sure what size of valve to put in. By size I mean how much of "open" pressure rating?
Make it too small, the residual pressure in the line keeps it open. Make it too large and you get a delay on the turn-on time.
Any ideas???
Perhaps a solenoid valve???

Hopefully this will help you: I put an aux. coolant filter on my VF-2ss and have gauges on both sides of that filter. My coolant pump is running at 24psi consistantly. I'm thinking that a check valve with a crack pressure of 10psi would certainly be safe.

I've thought about doing this as well but haven't got to it yet, so I'll be interested in what you come up with.

Locline makes some check valves that snap inline. I have used them with decent results. They are not perfect but much better.

We used 6psi check valves from a farm sprayer to do it, but if you keep the coolant topped right up to maximum it's not as bad anyway.

Hi Tom,

I left you a PM.

I had the same problem with my TM-1P. I tried the check valve and it helped.

The thing that I did the (solved the problem for me) was removing the bronze flapper valve on my coolant pump. In my system it was located at the output of my coolant pump. I have the (high output pump on my TM-1P) and it will pump the fluid up to the PCOOL nozzle easily prior to tool contact with the material during tool changes. This would probably not work on the (low volume pump) that HAAS offers.

I can't speak to any harm that removing the flapper valve would do to the system but has worked fine for me for about the last 6 months. Just something you might want to look at and try at your own risk.

John

This probably won't help any, but one thing I've noticed on pretty much all the Haas' I've been on is if the coolant is low it will seem to have this problem much worse than if the tank is full.

It actually makes me laugh that they have a coolant level gauge, since my current VF-3SS will have this issue if the tank is even 3/4 full, which doesn't really even read on the gauge. So I try to keep it full(since like you, this irritates me), which is hard when the machine is full of chips, and the tank level gets down to the 30% area.

I had certain machines that would stick toolholders really bad, so we had to grease the tapers quite often (sometimes twice a day). It was much worse when the coolant would "clean" off the toolholder when changing tools, and leave no grease on the taper for the next tool release.

Just another example of "Oxnard Engineering"

HelicopterJohn said:

Hi Tom,
I had the same problem with my TM-1P. I tried the check valve and it helped.

The thing that I did the (solved the problem for me) was removing the bronze flapper valve on my coolant pump. In my system it was located at the output of my coolant pump. I have the (high output pump on my TM-1P) and it will pump the fluid up to the PCOOL nozzle easily prior to tool contact with the material during tool changes. This would probably not work on the (low volume pump) that HAAS offers.

John

Click to expand...

Well we just plain forgot to put this bronze flapper when switching pumps and found that the coolant was taking way too long to reach the spindle , sometimes the drilling operation completed before the coolant came on... figured what we did wrong and put it back immediately.

keep us posted

MJM



Its not difficult to figure out what s happening but I cant think of any easy solution .(sure could do with a solution , as we have the problem ourself)

The coolant goes from the pump to the highest point then down again to the spindle.
when the pump stops the bronze flapper prevents all the coolant on this side of the inverted 'U' from going back to the tank. but all the coolant on the other side of the inverted 'U' drools through the nozzle . so some sort of powered valve is what we need
and not the gravity type

Drooling

Hi MUM,

On my TM-1P the coolant hose just goes over the top of the enclosure and not to the very top of the machine so there is very little to drain out on the output side. Also the high output pump on my machine pumps like a fire hose and I get coolant right away. I realize that there are many different configuarations of machines and coolant piping.

I think SeymourDumore's idea of putting a solenoid valve to turn off the coolant is the proper solution for all applications. Probably just activate it off an M Code and modify your post to include actuation of the M Code when the coolant is turned on and off. i.e. hook up the solenoid through M24 and then use M54 to turn it on and M64 to turn it off. Would this work??????

John

HelicopterJohn said:

Hi MUM,

On my TM-1P the coolant hose just goes over the top of the enclosure and not to the very top of the machine so there is very little to drain out on the output side. Also the high output pump on my machine pumps like a fire hose and I get coolant right away. I realize that there are many different configuarations of machines and coolant piping.

I think SeymourDumore's idea of putting a solenoid valve to turn off the coolant is the proper solution for all applications. Probably just activate it off an M Code and modify your post to include actuation of the M Code when the coolant is turned on and off. i.e. hook up the solenoid through M24 and then use M54 to turn it on and M64 to turn it off. Would this work??????

John

Click to expand...

Just pick up the signal from the pump activation relay. Use a Red Hat right before your coolant manifold. This way your M8/M9 would control the solinoid and the pump at the same time.

coolant drool

Hi ARB,

Thanks for the input. Could you give me a little more detail on Red Hat? I have never heard that term before.

John

HelicopterJohn said:

Hi ARB,

Thanks for the input. Could you give me a little more detail on Red Hat? I have never heard that term before.

John

Click to expand...

The Red Hat is a 2 way valve that Asco makes.


See it here
http://www.ascovalve.com/Common/PDFFiles/Product/8210R1.pdf

Most any 2 way valve will do that will flow well and tolerate coolant.

You will need to make sure that you have a coil voltage that is compatible with the power source. You also want to make sure that the power consumption of the solenoid will not upset your relay. I believe (it's been a while) that the Haas electrics should be able to handle one of these with no troubles. IIRC the coil voltage will need to be 120V. You need to check.

If you desire you could add a second simple Ice cube relay to you system to take the small load off the Haas relay. It should not be a problem. I have one of these set up to control a compressed air blast with a M code.



As an aside.
If you have an older machine and your coolant has gotten lazy. I would recommend running a new coolant line from the pump to the outlet. I got tired of the slight wiz that I was getting and ran a new 3/4"ID hose and now I have some real coolant pressure and volume.