Anyone here had to deal with a chip auger motor failure on a VF?

V

viper

Titanium

Joined

May 18, 2007

Location

nowhereville

• Mar 23, 2010

• #1

Our older VF1 just started blowing fuses in forward. In reverse, it works fine but in forward, it moves about an inch and blows the fuse. I have troubleshot things down to the motor/gear box assy. Motor does not have a pleasant smell and as well, when I pulled the wire cover off, there is coolant coming out.

All in all, I want to pull the motor and start there. Has anyone done this? I have parts running that cannot stop and it is looking like I need to open the thing on the inside. Is there a way to get the motor off by itself?

 

R

Rstewart

Stainless

Joined

Jun 14, 2006

Location

Huntsville Alabama

• Mar 23, 2010

• #2

Not tryin' to be a smart ass but a small shovel works better than tha HAAS's "auger".

Sorry, never had trouble w/ ours.

 

H

haastec

Hot Rolled

Joined

Mar 8, 2010

Location

Southwest, USA

• Mar 23, 2010

• #3

To get the motor off you will need to disconnect it from the auger shaft and unbolt it using the 4 SHCS where the motor shaft goes into the machine. This is a 2 person job. If you need to keep running you will have to fabricate up a plate to go in place of the motor to keep all your coolant in.

From there you can service the motor as needed. I would first check the capacitor as this is the most common source of your problem. Run it outside of the machine after any repairs first to avoid double work.

Good luck!

 

V

viper

Titanium

Joined

May 18, 2007

Location

nowhereville

• Mar 23, 2010

• #4

Runs in reverse but not forward so I am not suspecting the cap yet. I am opening the gear box as well to make sure I find the source of the problem...

 

M

markacts238

Plastic

Joined

Mar 3, 2010

Location

Douglasville ga

• Mar 23, 2010

• #5

gear reduction motor

Hello yes I have dealt with these types of motors. I personally think your motor got into a bind somewhere down the line and got very hot before blowing a fuse.You can either rebuild the motor or order a new one and they are kinda high... God bless.

 

S

SIM

Titanium

Joined

Feb 19, 2004

Location

Staten Island NewYork USA

• Mar 23, 2010

• #6

Rstewart said:

Not tryin' to be a smart ass but a small shovel works better than tha HAAS's "auger".

Click to expand...

I will admit they are not the "Best"...but I'll take the auger over a shovel any day.

 

V

viper

Titanium

Joined

May 18, 2007

Location

nowhereville

• Mar 23, 2010

• #7

SIM said:

I will admit they are not the "Best"...but I'll take the auger over a shovel any day.

Click to expand...

I will agree with that. I get VERY sick of pulling all the chips towards the auger just so it can move them out. They sure as hell did not make the machines "shovel friendly" either... How about a damn real conveyor system and more pitch on all the ways and floors????

 

C

Cheenist

Hot Rolled

Joined

Feb 23, 2004

Location

Alexandria Va. USA

• Mar 23, 2010

• #8

Viper,
Mine failed some years ago....but the problem was the gear box had filled with coolant. I replaced the bearings, cleaned, added grease and sealed the unit well. Mine failed at the end of the day...so I was offline over night. Not a bad fix.
Carl

 

V

viper

Titanium

Joined

May 18, 2007

Location

nowhereville

• Mar 23, 2010

• #9

Any idea what a new motor/gear box assy costs from Haas? I would like to have an idea before I call some motor guys to rebuild this one. The motor is done. I have no idea why. The motor itself did not get coolant in it, just the termination points. I retested with reverse and got smoke from the motor so something certainly is not right...

 

P

Pipes

Hot Rolled

Joined

Feb 16, 2007

Location

Rhode Island, USA

• Mar 23, 2010

• #10

Any sign of carbon tracking?

Can you see any signs of carbon tracking in the motor wiring junction box? Look for a black line of crud between the reverse power lead and the chassis of the motor.

The coolant and other contaminates can cause a conductive path for the motor voltage to chassis. Once conduction starts it can carbonize the contaminates creating a carbon resistor between voltage and ground.

If you see sign of this condition try scraping it away and then flushing out the junction box with electrical contact cleaner.

 

C

Cheenist

Hot Rolled

Joined

Feb 23, 2004

Location

Alexandria Va. USA

• Mar 24, 2010

• #11

Viper,
I think it was $800.00 for the motor and gearbox.
Carl

 

V

viper

Titanium

Joined

May 18, 2007

Location

nowhereville

• Mar 24, 2010

• #12

Got it going. Apparently the motor assy developed a coolant leak around it and it ran right down to the termination box on the motor and screwed up all the connections. After meter testing everything on the motor, I was convinced it was fine so I reterminated it and bolted it up. Has been running for hours now without issue. Also got my coolant leak fixed in the process. I don't think Haas was thinking on that one... If the terminations were truly water tight, there would not have been an issue and my solo cup would still be in use...