Office Mill tooling

Oldnewguy · Sep 1, 2011

Since we are stuck with Techniks collet holders in ISO20 up to 3/8 shank, I got creative and crafted a letter to them with some ideas and backing info for getting some normal tooling like drill chucks, face mills, a boring head, and tension/compression tapping head w/quick change holder for more versatility in rigid tapping and cutting. If you are an Office Mill user and would like to be advised of progress, post up info or something and I will spill as I know the deal. If you have made adaptations or know of other tooling like this, I would appreciate knowing about it. Thanks!! Karl

robwhi · Sep 12, 2011

Hi

Hi Karl

I have tried to contact this company they advertise a tool holder for the office mill but they never respond. I wanted to get one so I could check it. Maybe you might have better luck
ISO 20 AZ/ER16 for HAAS OM ISO 20 AZ/ER16 for HAAS OM [HOM-10SPZ20ISO] : T-Tool Store, High Quality CNC Tool Holders

Rob

Oldnewguy · Sep 12, 2011

Hey Rob,

Spoke with a Marc at T-tool per your link - thanks! - and he says they are a master distributor of tools from German co. T-tool precision, and they are interested in doing other than collet type tools for the Office Mill if the numbers are good. He was interested in helping you out but I had no contact info for you. He answered the phone right away, so maybe a LONG distance call is in order. Says he has collet chucks ready to go and they are different than standard type like Techniks. He's supposed to send info so I will "PM" it to you as I get it if you want.
Have a good day and thanks for the tip. I will get somebody to make me some tooling dang it!! :toetap:

robwhi · Sep 19, 2011

Hi Karl

That would be great thanks

Are you going to get a T-Tool Holder? I like the look of them especially for the 5 axis with the extra clearance they would give

regards

Rob

Hyrum · Mar 13, 2014

Bump!

I just got an office mill of my own and am looking into tooling options too so I thought I would resurrect this thread. Hopefully you guys have come up with something over the past few years.

I am a novice machinist but have owned a Haas Mini mill before. I made some injection molds and hated how slow it was when I was using small cutters. This new machine has 30k RPM which sounds crazy to me. My last mill I had a nice big facing tool I used to face my mold blocks. I don't know how I'll do it with only er16 holders Just take a LOT of passes?. Looks like T-tool still does not sell anything other than the er16.

I found an EU company that sells an er20 tool holder but they say they are techniks brand which is kinda weird.
ISO 20 ER Toolholders Ultra Precision TechniksUSA - FrezyCNC.eu

Hyrum · Mar 14, 2014

ER Fly Cutter

While poking around I found this website Taig Accessories DeArmond Tool were they have some low end tools that are made to fit in an er16 collet. It would be nice to have a fly cutter, cutoff saw and drill arbor.

I also found a little jt2 arbor that will fit in a 3/8 collet (also low quality) https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=2298&category=

The Haas book says that all the tools need to be balanced but I'm thinking as long as I run them slow <2k rpm it should be ok. Any thoughts?

Tjugo7 · Mar 15, 2014

I have an Office mill since a few years. It is a very good machine for what I do, mainly small parts in plastic and aluminium. I also learned the hard way that the spindle is VERY delicate, DO NOT under any circumstances put anything bigger than a 10mm mill in the spindle and use only high quality balanced holders. If you use good quality tools without a weldon flat they are well balanced. I use only Regofix holder, very good but expensive.
Fly cutters can not be used in these machines, to face parts use a 10mm end mill and take light cuts think HSM toolpaths NO heavy cuts.
Regarding the 30K rpm I would say that over 90% of the spindle on time is at 30K rpm, only drilling of bigger holes and tapping are done at lower speeds. You really should not use the spindle at low speed, it is just not made for that. High speed and small tools is the only way for these machines.
Also remember to always warm up the spindle. And once again the spindle are very sensitive.

/Staffan

timvercoe · Mar 15, 2014

This tread brings to mind a common argument that I have with myself, I need a tool, a part for a machine, a fixture, etc. Shall I make it? or shall I buy one. I've certainly made lots of things, for my machines, repair pieces, like lead screws and nuts, I made some tool holders and an attempt at a #40 collet set, (that by the way was an incredible flop, concept not bad but lacked experience). If there is a need, why don't you get together and tool up and make these things? Yes, before you ask, part of my argument with my self is how is time best spent? Saving money or saving time? Save the time, buy the part while I am making money at what I do best. Still............and so the argument goes...........

Tim

Hyrum · Mar 18, 2014

Tjugo7,

Thanks for posting. I would really like to hear more about your problems with how sensitive the spindle is. Was your spindle damaged? What happened? What was the repair cost?
I just got my machine but have not powered it up yet. I would really like to learn from your experience. I will not be purchasing a fly cutter after reading your post.

Can you tell me more about taping? What sizes can be done with this machine?

Tjugo7 · Mar 19, 2014

One spindle broke (bearings totally gone) after that a relatively small work piece came loose. The sudden load when the cutter threw into the enclosure was enough to destroy it, I guess that very light collisions would do the same thing. The whole spindle cassette is about the size of a small beer can, which gives an indication too.
Repairs (exchange spindle), work, travel for the tech etc. was about $7K.

Rigid tapping of M6 in aluminium is about max for tapping, bigger threads has to be milled.

Think HSM, it is a low torque high speed spindle.

An other thing to watch out for is that the table comes really close to the enclosure on all sides, after much searching and agony over the price tag I solved the problem with buying some very nice Swiss modular vises. I'll post a picture. Although very expensive they work great an in the end where worth all the money.

/Staffan

Hyrum · Mar 21, 2014

Thanks for the info. I am very interested in the vises. I was about to get a Kurt 4" and was planning on cutting the back lip off as I have done before with a 6" vice.

Thanks
Hyrum

Tjugo7 · Mar 21, 2014

This is my set-up. Mainly chosen so I can use the whole working envelope (which is small). It is also very versatile I clamp a big block or several small parts and anything in between. The vise bases are always in the machine, if necessary they are used as in the same way as the table would be used.

Hyrum · May 15, 2014

These look nice. I went with a fixture plate and some vises from stevens engineering.

You have some long tools in your machine.

Tjugo7 · May 18, 2014

Hyrum said:
These look nice. I went with a fixture plate and some vises from stevens engineering.

You have some long tools in your machine.

The longest tool, far left in the picture, is a fully reduced 10mm alu specific endmill. It is 70mm outside the holder, for these machines that is very long. I use it when the other tools can not reach, of cause at 30K rpm.

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