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Source for drawbar washers

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Cast Iron
Joined
Jun 3, 2008
Location
Chatsworth, Ca.
I have an '91 VF-1 and the drawbar washers are broke.

I pulled it apart and there are about 6-10 that are intact but the rest are in pieces.

The drawbar is og equipment and the factory replacement doesn't fit the bill.

Where can I source the washers and would any of you guys know the sequence in which they stack? Also how many in the stack or do you know what the stack height should be to reach the holding pressure required?

Here is a pic of the new style and my og one. Hopefully it comes thru.

Draw Bar.jpg
 
let us know how this works for you.. I have a 91 vf-1 also. and i'm concerned by the age of the machine and the sound of the spindle that i'll be doing the same soon. I reciently had to replace the valve the activates the pusher for the drawbar. and while i was at it, i was looking to see how to remove the drawbar to inspect the washers.. did you have to drop the spindle to get the draw bar out?
 
No need to drop spindle - bare minimum work to remove drawbar:
- Remove tool
- Move Z to top of travel
- Kill power and air
- Remove top cover/fan - be careful of the wire, you can set it aside to your left and rest it on the casting of the tool shuttle - mind the wire!
- Remove airlines from release piston assembly; quick connects, I use a small open end wrench to help press the collar and pull the hose out at the same time
- Remove four bolts from corners of piston casting [5/16 hex driver on 12" extension]
- Carefully pull piston assembly up and out - Mind the wires and set it aside - DO NOT let it hang from the wires
- Remove snap ring holding the assembly in place, newer ones are spiral circlip, pain to remove without cover removed but can be done if you have one
- Push out the drawbar from the tool end with a 3/8 to 5/8 aluminum rod, can be a bit stubborn at first but once loose you can reach down from the top and pull it out

The entire thing works like an engine valve spring. You have to compress the stack and remove the two wedges holding it, I made up a pair of plates and threaded rods to do this, not a lot of force but could not do it by hand.

If you have not been in there in a while I recommend taking all the covers off and giving the entire thing a good cleaning and inspect the wires and connections - I found all sorts of chafing and just about ready to fail connections on mine.

Hope this helps...
 
No need to drop spindle - bare minimum work to remove drawbar:
- Remove tool
- Move Z to top of travel
- Kill power and air
- Remove top cover/fan - be careful of the wire, you can set it aside to your left and rest it on the casting of the tool shuttle - mind the wire!
- Remove airlines from release piston assembly; quick connects, I use a small open end wrench to help press the collar and pull the hose out at the same time
- Remove four bolts from corners of piston casting [5/16 hex driver on 12" extension]
- Carefully pull piston assembly up and out - Mind the wires and set it aside - DO NOT let it hang from the wires
- Remove snap ring holding the assembly in place, newer ones are spiral circlip, pain to remove without cover removed but can be done if you have one
- Push out the drawbar from the tool end with a 3/8 to 5/8 aluminum rod, can be a bit stubborn at first but once loose you can reach down from the top and pull it out

The entire thing works like an engine valve spring. You have to compress the stack and remove the two wedges holding it, I made up a pair of plates and threaded rods to do this, not a lot of force but could not do it by hand.

If you have not been in there in a while I recommend taking all the covers off and giving the entire thing a good cleaning and inspect the wires and connections - I found all sorts of chafing and just about ready to fail connections on mine.

Hope this helps...

Thx man. I got the thing apart and out.
I will hit up Schnoor on Monday and order the washers.
I figured for re assy i could drop in the drawbar and fire the clamp piston then add the snap ring while its under pressure.

Im gonna play dective and put all the broken pieces back together to get a count on how many were in the og stack and i can see they are double stacked and how they face each other so that part should be easy.
 
I figured for re assy i could drop in the drawbar and fire the clamp piston then add the snap ring while its under pressure.

Well not exactly, no need to, if its a bit stubborn a bit of "kinetic persuasion" with a brass or aluminum rod and small hammer is enough, the spring stack is a bit uneven and tends to drag in the bore, a tap will seat it enough.

Glad I could help.
 
While your at it you may want to go through the draw bar piston release distance and release/clamp switch adjustment as well as the parameter 64 setting check. I just did mine and what a difference, smoother and I dare say faster. The release was 0.035" too far, parameter 64 0.075" short and the micro switches late and early respectively.
 
Drawbar fixed!!!

I ordered a "new" drawbar from Haas but as it turned out it's not the correct one for this vintage. So I went a purchased the washers from McMaster, about $60. bucks vs. the $440. for the new drawbar assy. and decided to rebuild what I had. Since I only had 6 washers that were fully intact and I didn't know how they stacked I sought some advise from a friend who has a wealth of knowledge when it comes to machine tools. He gave me some basic knowledge and broke out the calculator.

I have a stack height of 5.055 when they are preloaded and he was able to tell me that I needed 48 washers givin the size I am using. At first I double stacked them ))(())(())(( but that didn't work out as I had 1/4 gap to reach my 5.055 number, the stack up came in short. So I pulled it back apart and single stacked ()()()()() and it came out about .150 over my number. Upon tightening the stack I was able to get to my number of 5.055 so I called it good and installed it.

I need to get a pull gage in here to measure the pull load but on my initial evaluation I think it is going to be fine. I burried a 1/2 em in some 1018 I had around here and I didn't even get a sound from the spindle. Previously it would have sounded like armagedon breaking loose but she purred right through it with a 50% load on the meter.

So those of you that need to rebuild your stack:

Washers- Mcmaster Carr p/n 9712K84
 
Last edited:
Drawbar fixed!!!

I ordered a "new" drawbar from Haas but as it turned out it's not the correct one for this vintage. So I went a purchased the washers from McMaster, about $60. bucks vs. the $440. for the new drawbar assy. and decided to rebuild what I had. Since I only had 6 washers that were fully intact and I didn't know how they stacked I sought some advise from a friend who has a wealth of knowledge when it comes to machine tools. He gave me some basic knowledge and broke out the calculator.

I have a stack height of 5.055 when they are preloaded and he was able to tell me that I needed 48 washers givin the size I am using. At first I double stacked them ))(())(())(( but that didn't work out as I had 1/4 gap to reach my 5.055 number, the stack up came in short. So I pulled it back apart and single stacked ()()()()() and it came out about .150 over my number. Upon tightening the stack I was able to get to my number of 5.055 so I called it good and installed it.

I need to get a pull gage in here to measure the pull load but on my initial evaluation I think it is going to be fine. I burried a 1/2 em in some 1018 I had around here and I didn't even get a sound from the spindle. Previously it would have sounded like armagedon breaking loose but she purred right through it with a 50% load on the meter.

So those of you that need to rebuild your stack:

Washers- Mcmaster Carr p/n B1250089

Well done! Glad it worked for you.

FYI: that P/N did not pull up anything on McMaster web site, it it correct?
 
My bad I pulled the number from the bag.

I edited my above post with the McMaster catalog number from the website.

McMaster p/n 9712K84 they come in a pack of 12 for 9 dollars and change.
 








 
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