Some pics and thoughts on setting up the 5 axis trunnion on a VF2.
The machine and trunnion are used but new to me.
I wanted a solution that would allow me to easily remove and replace the trunnion without too much set up hassle. It's certainly a fair bit of work to get it set up each time otherwise.
So I decided to create fixture plates with keyways and dowels so it would be simpler to put it on and off in the same location.
I started out with two blanchard ground plates 10"X10". The original material was 1" thick and they ended up 0.97" They are both ground at the same time to be matching.
They were a little over 10" and not very square so I squared them up and didn't worry about them being oversize (I made all critical dimensions from opposite corners so the extra material just gives more support).
Each plate has slots cut in the back for Kurt vise keyways. Same keyways I have in my vises and two per plate. They locate beautifully. Then they have a set of bolt down holes on the same centre line as the original trunnion and a set at the front. There are then two 1/2-13 tapped holes for bolting the trunnion to the plate.
I implemented a reamed hole between the bolt pattern in each plate and when on the bed these are set to exactly 26" to get the spacing correct. I used the machine to do this, and when they are set correctly each plate lines up almost perfectly with the ends of the bed.
It looks like this at that point.
Next, in line with the location holes I came over and put a hole through the plates and into the bed 0.65" for a location dowel.
I put a dowel location in both plates even though I will only need one just in case one ever gets screwed up or for some reason I haven't though of yet.
I used 2" dowel lengths so I can get them out easily and installed them with never seize.
Next I put the trunnion onto the machine. What a PITA that is.
I used a big red engine hoist to do it.
I had to remove the side cover from the machine and relocate the auger power cord. The eye hook pattern lines up just enough so that I am about 8 inches short getting the trunnion into place from the side when the legs of the hoist hit the casting under the machine. So I moved over and counter balanced the trunnion and just used the two side eye hooks. That left me about 4 inches short... but a swing and a helping hand from a buddy and we got it on.
My plan is to cut the legs of the engine hoist back 6-8 inches and I should be fine to put it straight in and on.
Next was setting up the trunnion. A bit of time was spent and in part I followed the great instructions here from user "makingchips" http://www.*******.com/forums/haas_mills/68951-new_vf_4_ss_w.html
I actually aligned the trunnion with the x axis first and the plate at approx 90 degrees, I got it to within 0.0002. Then I set the plate to horizontal using a level to get close and then an indicator to get it within 0.0005.
Next I brought the platter back to 90 degrees and edge found it. Then brought the platter to -90 degrees and edge found it again. Dividing that number by 2 gives me the centre of rotation distance from the platter face to the A axis rotation. It also allowed me to step over and set my Y0 (I double checked to confirm this in a later operation also).
I am setting my XYZ0 to align with the A and B axis. So a rotation about A will be around the X axis and a rotation about B will be around the Z axis.
Next I found the center of the hole in the platter. This showed me that my Y value was dead on, and gave me my X axis value.
Finally time to set the B0.
I had previously made the start of a base plate system for the B rotation
I made it 0.01 overside with a chamfer at what is now the bottom face, but otherwise cut completely square.
I bolted it to the platter and then adjusted it until the sides ran square to give me my B0 value. All of my fixtures and small vice will in some way bolt to this base system.
My plan is to cut the top of this down, interpolate the dowel hole locations and ream them. Also cut the sides to be a perfect 5" square.
Lots of work and set up but I hope it will pay off in the long run.
The one thing that seemed strange is that the distance from the platter face to the centre of the A rotation was 0.126". Does that sound reasonable? Does anyone else have one of these set up? I wonder if it should have been 0.125" but that's just the way it turned out? I wasn't expected it to be 1/8 of an inch in my head for some reason.
Further more I am setting all of my tools from the base plate so that I don't have to change anything if I use my vices or the trunnion.
It was a close fit but I measured from the base plate to the trunnion platter. Adding in the 0.126" gives me my Z0 value.
Since it isn't easy getting to the base anymore, and once I have fixtures mounted on the platter I can't get to that, to measure tools I plan to cut a big chunk of aluminium and bolt it down to the base/trunnion adapter plate on the left hand side of the machine. Cut it to exactly 10" set my 4" tool setter on top of it when needed, and then just -14" from my tool heights when I set them. I will post pics as I get that done too.
I guess I was just looking to share what I have done, and I will happily make CAD files of the fixture plates available if anyone wants to do the same, and to ask if it makes sense to everyone or if I am missing anything?
The machine and trunnion are used but new to me.
I wanted a solution that would allow me to easily remove and replace the trunnion without too much set up hassle. It's certainly a fair bit of work to get it set up each time otherwise.
So I decided to create fixture plates with keyways and dowels so it would be simpler to put it on and off in the same location.
I started out with two blanchard ground plates 10"X10". The original material was 1" thick and they ended up 0.97" They are both ground at the same time to be matching.
They were a little over 10" and not very square so I squared them up and didn't worry about them being oversize (I made all critical dimensions from opposite corners so the extra material just gives more support).
Each plate has slots cut in the back for Kurt vise keyways. Same keyways I have in my vises and two per plate. They locate beautifully. Then they have a set of bolt down holes on the same centre line as the original trunnion and a set at the front. There are then two 1/2-13 tapped holes for bolting the trunnion to the plate.
I implemented a reamed hole between the bolt pattern in each plate and when on the bed these are set to exactly 26" to get the spacing correct. I used the machine to do this, and when they are set correctly each plate lines up almost perfectly with the ends of the bed.
It looks like this at that point.
Next, in line with the location holes I came over and put a hole through the plates and into the bed 0.65" for a location dowel.
I put a dowel location in both plates even though I will only need one just in case one ever gets screwed up or for some reason I haven't though of yet.
I used 2" dowel lengths so I can get them out easily and installed them with never seize.
Next I put the trunnion onto the machine. What a PITA that is.
I used a big red engine hoist to do it.
I had to remove the side cover from the machine and relocate the auger power cord. The eye hook pattern lines up just enough so that I am about 8 inches short getting the trunnion into place from the side when the legs of the hoist hit the casting under the machine. So I moved over and counter balanced the trunnion and just used the two side eye hooks. That left me about 4 inches short... but a swing and a helping hand from a buddy and we got it on.
My plan is to cut the legs of the engine hoist back 6-8 inches and I should be fine to put it straight in and on.
Next was setting up the trunnion. A bit of time was spent and in part I followed the great instructions here from user "makingchips" http://www.*******.com/forums/haas_mills/68951-new_vf_4_ss_w.html
I actually aligned the trunnion with the x axis first and the plate at approx 90 degrees, I got it to within 0.0002. Then I set the plate to horizontal using a level to get close and then an indicator to get it within 0.0005.
Next I brought the platter back to 90 degrees and edge found it. Then brought the platter to -90 degrees and edge found it again. Dividing that number by 2 gives me the centre of rotation distance from the platter face to the A axis rotation. It also allowed me to step over and set my Y0 (I double checked to confirm this in a later operation also).
I am setting my XYZ0 to align with the A and B axis. So a rotation about A will be around the X axis and a rotation about B will be around the Z axis.
Next I found the center of the hole in the platter. This showed me that my Y value was dead on, and gave me my X axis value.
Finally time to set the B0.
I had previously made the start of a base plate system for the B rotation
I made it 0.01 overside with a chamfer at what is now the bottom face, but otherwise cut completely square.
I bolted it to the platter and then adjusted it until the sides ran square to give me my B0 value. All of my fixtures and small vice will in some way bolt to this base system.
My plan is to cut the top of this down, interpolate the dowel hole locations and ream them. Also cut the sides to be a perfect 5" square.
Lots of work and set up but I hope it will pay off in the long run.
The one thing that seemed strange is that the distance from the platter face to the centre of the A rotation was 0.126". Does that sound reasonable? Does anyone else have one of these set up? I wonder if it should have been 0.125" but that's just the way it turned out? I wasn't expected it to be 1/8 of an inch in my head for some reason.
Further more I am setting all of my tools from the base plate so that I don't have to change anything if I use my vices or the trunnion.
It was a close fit but I measured from the base plate to the trunnion platter. Adding in the 0.126" gives me my Z0 value.
Since it isn't easy getting to the base anymore, and once I have fixtures mounted on the platter I can't get to that, to measure tools I plan to cut a big chunk of aluminium and bolt it down to the base/trunnion adapter plate on the left hand side of the machine. Cut it to exactly 10" set my 4" tool setter on top of it when needed, and then just -14" from my tool heights when I set them. I will post pics as I get that done too.
I guess I was just looking to share what I have done, and I will happily make CAD files of the fixture plates available if anyone wants to do the same, and to ask if it makes sense to everyone or if I am missing anything?
