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Questions about Haas TL-2

ksville

Aluminum
Joined
Mar 1, 2007
Location
Central Oklahome
I have been doing light machine work for 30 years, mostly gun stuff, contouring barrels, threading, clambering etc. I do not consider myself a machinest by any stretch of imagination. This sight has been extremely helpful over the years. Every kind of answer even a "no" once in a while, but all good solutions.
Here goes- I am having a new TL-2 delivered tomorrow and all I know about this kind of equipment, I learned on utube. I will be using the machine to contour barrels of all lengths, is it possible to send a drawing to a programmer and get a stick back with the program completed? This will be a complete outside demensions before clambering
Let me know what you think
Ken S
 
If I'm not wrong, the TL-2 (and others) can import DXF. Don't know wether this is an option you have to buy.
Hope my mind isn't playing me tricks!

Depending how complicated the contour is, you can easily program it by hand, directly at the control. G71 and G70 are your friends, together with ",Rxxx" and ",Cxxx".


Nick
 
I have been doing light machine work for 30 years, mostly gun stuff, contouring barrels, threading, clambering etc. I do not consider myself a machinest by any stretch of imagination. This sight has been extremely helpful over the years. Every kind of answer even a "no" once in a while, but all good solutions.
Here goes- I am having a new TL-2 delivered tomorrow and all I know about this kind of equipment, I learned on utube. I will be using the machine to contour barrels of all lengths, is it possible to send a drawing to a programmer and get a stick back with the program completed? This will be a complete outside demensions before clambering
Let me know what you think
Ken S

Yes, I am sure there are programmers out there you could hire that will take your print and provide a program for you. I am sure others will chime in about sources for this kind of service.

I would also suggest checking with your HFO about training classes. Most will offer basic mill and lathe classes free of charge at their facility for any Haas owner or employee of the company. This can be a good starting point, but be aware that the lathe course may not cover the TL in depth; ask about details of the class.

In general though, the TL lathe has some very user friendly operations that can easily be learned in a matter of a few hours. Check with your HFO, if they have a TL on their showroom floor they may be willing to spend a hour or two going over the controls. Doesn't hurt to ask, right?

Other options are to hire your HFO to come in and provide one on one training at your facility or you may be able to find a local shop to visit and see first hand how they operate. With a little knowledge of the machine, some trial and error, you should be competent enough to make some basic parts.

A lot of friendly and willing people here on the forum. Maybe someone will offer to let you visit their shop. A little gun work for TL training barter. If I was in Oklahoma I would offer up a deal for you myself.

Good luck!
 
, is it possible to send a drawing to a programmer and get a stick back with the program completed? This will be a complete outside demensions before clambering
Let me know what you think
Ken S

Hi Ken,

Yes you should be able to get a program made from someone, but you will find that you will want to change a thing or two.
Going back and forth to make one small change is tedious and you will find that learning the control will be faster, easier and cheaper.
You already ponied up the bucks for the machine just go a little further and become comfortable with it.
---even if you only learn one thing a day and it takes you many days----- ( btw: wich it won't )

I've paid for offsite programming and although it served it's purpose,
all it did was make me want to learn g code and the control that much faster.
Put it this way:
If you needed to start a fire to keep warm and you have all the wood you need, but you needed the guy up the street to get the fire and bring it back, wouldnt you soon consider getting yourself getting some matches?

( I dont want to sound smart or mean, just want to re-inforce that: if you have turning capabilities, can do simple math, memorise things and have some comon sense you can do a lot with this machine. Haas has made it so you don't even need to know English!!! although it would help. )

Good luck,

h.s.

P.S. what is clambering???...
 
The control is easy to learn. The IPS is the best place to start. Learn all the tabs in the IPS section then play around with the profile tab. You can cut pretty much any shape with the profile tab.

Athack
 
The TL2 is a cool little machine with neat tool room type features. You are going to love it.

I agree with what was said. Super easy control to learn so have fun learning it. IPS is good on these lathes.

Oh - and wear your rain gear!;)


(what materials are you going to be cutting mainly?)
 
Thanks for the tips. The lathe arrived today and I will finish the set up tomorrow. Feels like a new car in the drive and no keys. I did have one other question, the three phase power in town has a high leg, that is L1 to ground is 120v, L2 to ground is 120v, L3 to ground is 220v. Any combination of L1, L2 and L3 is 220. An electrician told me not to use the high leg on the control circuit. The three lugs on the TL2 are straight forward. Does anyone know if it makes any difference. I will call Haas before I wire it in unless someone here has experience with this type of three phase power
Thanks
Ken S
 
I will be contouring rifle and pistol barrels, chrome moly and stainless. I also make adapters barrel to suppressor exclusively out of 303 stainless. Also a little T6 aluminum. I contour pistol barrels for AR's. These are 8 and 12 inch long.
 
Your issue with your 3 phase is the same as running a phase converter. You have on high leg that we call the "wild" leg. On a converter it is the "manufactured" leg of current. I run my equipment off of one and my VF-2 is set so the wild leg is on L2. Good 120's on L1 and L3. Works fine on my Haas.

Any other equipment that you have that you may want to run off of that current, make sure that the coils of any mag starters run off of the two 120's and not the wild leg either. Won't damage the motors, but will burn out the coils in the starters.

Have fun!

Mike
 
The lathe arrived today

Pics or it didn't happen.;)



I will be contouring rifle and pistol barrels, chrome moly and stainless. I also make adapters barrel to suppressor exclusively out of 303 stainless. Also a little T6 aluminum. I contour pistol barrels for AR's. These are 8 and 12 inch long.


Nice! In that case get yourself a waterproof burka and a set of rain gear!

:cheers:
 
Your issue with your 3 phase is the same as running a phase converter. You have on high leg that we call the "wild" leg. On a converter it is the "manufactured" leg of current. I run my equipment off of one and my VF-2 is set so the wild leg is on L2. Good 120's on L1 and L3. Works fine on my Haas.

Any other equipment that you have that you may want to run off of that current, make sure that the coils of any mag starters run off of the two 120's and not the wild leg either. Won't damage the motors, but will burn out the coils in the starters.

Have fun!

Mike

Yep, what he said!

Also, did your sale include setup by the HFO? It should have included basic setup. If it does, you can wire the machine up, but let the tech turn it on after he checks all the voltages. I have heard of people wiring up a machine, turning it on and burning up circuit boards or other components all not covered by warranty.

Enjoy the new toy!
 
I talked to the salesman and they send out a tech who will connect to the main lathe breaker and check all electronics, check level and operation and crash course on the programming. I have the three phase in the box waiting for the hookup I ordered the Dorian tool post and holders with the through coolant line, now I need to order the tools drilled for the coolant. I also ordered the gang tool holds 7 tools. I installed the adapter plate and three jaw chuck. Was a little skeptical when I saw where the chuck was built. Checked run out, face, and chucked up a barrel extension ( it was turned and ground) everything was dead nuts. Not to worried about where the three jaw came from. I had ordered a 10" 4 jaw direct mount and it came in yesterday. The chuck was sealed up in a nice wooden box, padded with shredded paper inside a cardboard box. The cardboard box was pretty much smashed and after opening the cardboard the wooden box was broken on three corners and the chuck was almost out one end. Looked like the UPS crew had put the triple smash on another piece of freight. After an hour of dried cosmolene removal I cleaned up the chuck. One of the jaws was pretty tight. This chuck was made in Italy, first Italian chuck for me. I will be out until next Wednesday, maybe Thursday the tech can make it on site.
Sorry about no pictures, the only digital I have is my 4S and I can text or email, not sure how to get them on here.
I would really like to find an eight inch set tru three jaw with the A2-6 mount
Take care
Ken
 
I have one program in memory, ran some barrels and tc1990 was pretty close on the rain suit. I am not sure how to send pictures but would send them by email if someone wanted to post them. I have ordered some different tooling, an 8" directy mount 4 jaw from travers and 5C collet chuck that fits inside of a 4 jaw. The notch/tailstock is positive solid but with the width of the carriage, length of the tail stock stroke and the notchs in the lathe, useing the live center close to the chuck is tricky. I have ordered a number 4 morse taper extension to fill in the dead spot. I am cutting an eight inch barrel out of a 1.250" blank and the stock has to be 12" out of the chuck to match the TS center. I will see if the morse taper extension will be more rigid than the 4 extra inchs I am out of the TS.
Thanks for the comments
Ken
 
Ken,

I am in NE Oklahoma and have been contemplating doing just what you are wanting to do....I would love to visit and see how it is working for you I contour barrels also and some of the contours are tedious to do manual. Do you turn sporter weight rifle barrels and if so how are you supporting them if turning full length?

I will send you a PM with my phone number.
 
Hi Ken Did you get your Haas tl-2 set up and running. I have some shotgun barrels I would like to have contoured. Do you do this type of work. Jerry
 
I have been running 7 1/2. 10, and 16" AR barrels. Shotgun barrels would most certainly require a center rest/follower rest that I do not have. Are your blanks chambered or fit to a specific model of shotgun? If so, what demensions do you need on the finished product.
Let me know
Ken
 
TC1999 mentioned rain gear and he has a point. I attach magnets to the carriage below the tool post and to the rear to keep the coolant diverted to the drain. I also run minimal flood, keep the cover down and keep a wet vac handy to dry the work area on the floor. Takes a little tweaking to stay dry, but the TL-2 is one sweet accurate machine. I thread the breach and chamber for the 300 AAC in 8 1/2 minutes and it may not be perfect, it is better than perfect-I have the quote on the future TM-2P, it is next.
 








 
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