3 DV59 Questions

bradjacob · Feb 11, 2017

Hi all -

I just bought a decent DV59.

I plan to buy a turret and cross slide for it, so it'll be a "DVSM"-59 (haha)

I have 3 questions for the hardinge experts:

1. Was taking apart the compound dials and got it all disassembled, EXCEPT for the compound. Everything is removed, except for the two castings, they're held by two binder clamps, that I can not figure out how to remove. Anyone know how to do this?

2. Does hardinge sell new lead screws or nuts?

3. How do I find the serial number and date the machine?

I'm VERY happy to be a new member of the Hardinge owners family

Derek Smalls · Feb 11, 2017

I have a turret and lever cross slide I'm not using and would sell. Let me know if you're interested and I'll get you some pics and more info.

bradjacob · Feb 11, 2017

Derek Smalls said:
I have a turret and lever cross slide I'm not using and would sell. Let me know if you're interested and I'll get you some pics and more info.

Ha! First, I LOVE the Spinal Tap name. And yes, I'm interested, please if you have some pics, would love to see some: [email protected]

Thanks Derek!

L Vanice · Feb 11, 2017

You need to post pictures before you can expect answers. The 1946 and 1960 model DV/DSM lathes and slide rests are very different, so the parts are very different.

And then there are the people who are selling an early 1940's split bed TR/ESM and calling it a DV.

Larry

Derek Smalls · Feb 11, 2017

bradjacob said:
Ha! First, I LOVE the Spinal Tap name.

You are the first to ever comment on it! :cheers:

When I joined the Forum I figured most people would get it, his picture is even my avatar. I'm sure some have, but nobody has ever said anything. I guess there's not as many Tap fans around here as I had figured.

I'll get some pics of what I have to you tomorrow.

Stradbash · Feb 12, 2017

Yes, as Larry rightly says, we need pictures (or a better description) to know what we're talking about. I'm looking forward to them!

1. I answered that on the Yahoo group post you made and assumed you were talking about the newer compounds, DSB or DSC. It's pretty strait forward.

2. Yes, at least for the newer compounds. I bought a 20 pitch screw recently and the screw alone was $220.00. (I'll be selling the very nice 10 pitch screw it replaced soon on eBay)

3. If it is a newer machine, the serial number will be on the back of the headstock on top of the protrusion where the collet closer attaches.

4. Larry is the last word on most manual Hardinge matters.

Stradbash · Feb 12, 2017

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bradjacob · Feb 12, 2017

L Vanice said:
You need to post pictures before you can expect answers. The 1946 and 1960 model DV/DSM lathes and slide rests are very different, so the parts are very different.

And then there are the people who are selling an early 1940's split bed TR/ESM and calling it a DV.

Larry

Agreed Larry, makes sense. Here ya go. I took as many as possible that would make it as easy as possible. The last couple pictures shows the compound that I can't remove. I was able to get out the diagonal bolt, but the opposing side bolt, is loose, but won't wiggle out. The binders won't come out although they're loose. I tried with magnets, scribers and screwdrivers (carful not to mar anything). No luck!

L Vanice · Feb 12, 2017

That is a 1960 model DV59, with the correct type tailstock and slide rest.

You probably do not need feed screws and nuts for the slide rest. If the screws are not heavily worn in one part of the threads, you only need to adjust the two-piece nuts to get minimal backlash. It requires a pair of special wrenches to adjust the nuts. I had to make my wrenches, pictured below. The upper and lower nuts and screws are the same, both 10 TPI.

I don't know if that lever cross slide is worth repairing, but it is possible to silver braze in patches of cast iron bar stock and re-machine the top to make a strong and neat repair to the T-slot.

Larry

bradjacob · Feb 12, 2017

L Vanice said:
That is a 1960 model DV59, with the correct type tailstock and slide rest.

You probably do not need feed screws and nuts for the slide rest. If the screws are not heavily worn in one part of the threads, you only need to adjust the two-piece nuts to get minimal backlash. It requires a pair of special wrenches to adjust the nuts. I had to make my wrenches, pictured below. The upper and lower nuts and screws are the same, both 10 TPI.

I don't know if that lever cross slide is worth repairing, but it is possible to silver braze in patches of cast iron bar stock and re-machine the top to make a strong and neat repair to the T-slot.

Larry

View attachment 190944

Thanks Larry. Yeah I'm going to get a new cross-slide and sell the other for parts, I guess. Any info on getting the compound casting off? Those binders aren't coming out. Do they just drop out, or am I missing something? And my machine is from 1960 or the 60's - and is there a way to date these machines?

Stradbash · Feb 12, 2017

bradjacob said:
Thanks Larry. Yeah I'm going to get a new cross-slide and sell the other for parts, I guess. Any info on getting the compound casting off? Those binders aren't coming out. Do they just drop out, or am I missing something? And my machine is from 1960 or the 60's - and is there a way to date these machines?

Both of the hex socket eccentrics must be removed before you can separate the upper and lower slides. Keep wiggling and gently pulling. Leave the hammer in the tool box and make sure the upper and lower slides are against each other while trying to get the eccentrics out.

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Stradbash · Feb 12, 2017

After you get that second eccentric bolt out the upper and lower slides should separate easily and the rest will become clear.

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bradjacob · Feb 12, 2017

Stradbash said:
After you get that second eccentric bolt out the upper and lower slides should separate easily and the rest will become clear.

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Wouldn't the other one come out, (the one that I got the hex bolt out of). Any tips on grabbing it? I tried everything - maybe it's an oil/hyro seal thats keeping it stuck together?

Stradbash · Feb 12, 2017

bradjacob said:
Wouldn't the other one come out, (the one that I got the hex bolt out of). Any tips on grabbing it? I tried everything - maybe it's an oil/hyro seal thats keeping it stuck together?

There is no seal. If it were mine to get the second eccentric out I would clean the socket well and glue a wrench into it so I could pull a bit more. I'm not sure it's possible to remove the part it fits into before the slides are separated and there is no need to do so.

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Stradbash · Feb 12, 2017

Eccentrics must be removed first. It took me a minute.

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Stradbash · Feb 12, 2017

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bradjacob · Feb 12, 2017

Stradbash said:
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Ok, I'll be sure to get that second hex bolt, out. I'll keep you posted! Thanks for this - appreciate it!

L Vanice · Feb 12, 2017

bradjacob said:
...Those binders aren't coming out. Do they just drop out, or am I missing something? And my machine is from 1960 or the 60's - and is there a way to date these machines?

I usually just put a common hex key in the eccentric bolt and rotate it until the bolt is loose, at the mid point of its travel. Then I tilt the key to jam it in the hex socket and pull the eccentric out. I have never needed to glue the key in the socket.

Still waiting for you to post the serial number, which will lead to the manufacture date.

Watch out for the set screw that limits travel of the top slide. You have to back it out before taking the top slide apart.

Larry

Stradbash · Feb 12, 2017

L Vanice said:
I usually just put a common hex key in the eccentric bolt and rotate it until the bolt is loose, at the mid point of its travel. Then I tilt the key to jam it in the hex socket and pull the eccentric out. I have never needed to glue the key in the socket. Larry

I suggested that when he asked the same questions in the Yahoo group. Perhaps it is gummed up with something. Or maybe he has just not found the sweet spot yet.
I suppose it's possible the bolt is worn enough to have a shoulder on it, but I've not seen one that bad.

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bradjacob · Feb 12, 2017

Serial No. is: DV-59-8407

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