Bridgeport clone quill feed stuck

Shopteach1 · Jan 9, 2016

I am a highschool metal work instructor, we have just managed to scrape some money together to replace the old combination horiz/vertical mill with a new First LC 1-1/2 42" x 9" vertical mill (Bridgeport clone). Pretty darned happy about that, I haven't been able to use a decent mill since I left the trades 20 years ago to become a shop teacher (we had Ex cello's in the shop I worked in). Now the bad part, I was making up some plywood table covers when I discovered the quill feed locked up solid. The quill is in the fully up position, the micrometer stop nut is clear and the quill lock is loose. It appears that someone managed to get the quill feed engaged and it would appear it was fed upwards. With the quill feed transmission disengaged the spindle turns freely, but the quill she is locked. With quill feed transmission engaged, it sounds like the quill feed clutch is disengaging as it is making nasty clacking sounds.
I could not manually activate the feed kick off lever, I unscrewed the screw holding the kick off lever at the bottom and it released, but the quill is still tight.
I removed the cover for the feed clutch mechanism, and according to a video I viewed, it seems like the clutch should slide out, but it seems stuck in place and I haven't applied any force as I am unsure of appropriate procedure.
I have called the supplier of the mill, but the tech has not returned my call yet. The supplier is a days travel and a ferry ride away, I am hoping for warranty, but I am not holding my breath as I can't exactly explain what happened as so far no one has fessed up to tinkering with the feed mechanism.
Further, our maintenance mechanic just went off on medical and will be gone for at least 4 weeks. I suspect if this is to be fixed reasonably quickly, I will be fixing it.
Any suggestions where to start would be mucho appreciated!
Thank you,
Alan

jhruska · Jan 9, 2016

Perhaps you could post a photo or two.

Here is a diagram of a j-head.
Look at #66, the cover for the feed gears.
When this cover is removed the gear train can be rotated by finger pressure when feed transmission (parts #20-24) is disengaged, quill is not on a dead stop, quill clamp is loose.

It is possible to move the quill up or down with the above conditions just by rotating the gears.
If the gears are tight and the quill feed transmission is disengaged then the problem is downstream from here.

Look at the photo of the Series 2 Head. Item # 7 is the feed reversing knob, parts #110-111. There are three detent positions, in, neutral, out. Put it in neutral. This 'should' relieve the jam. In and out position is feed up or feed down depending upon spindle rotation.

John

Richard King · Jan 9, 2016

If it is new can't you call the company you bought it from and talk to customer service? Is it still under warranty ?

jeep534 · Feb 6, 2016

Shopteach,
I am having exactly the same problem on a new bridgeport series-1 clone (DMG) did you figure out what was going on and get it up and running.
Thank You
archie

Shopteach1 said:
I am a highschool metal work instructor, we have just managed to scrape some money together to replace the old combination horiz/vertical mill with a new First LC 1-1/2 42" x 9" vertical mill (Bridgeport clone). Pretty darned happy about that, I haven't been able to use a decent mill since I left the trades 20 years ago to become a shop teacher (we had Ex cello's in the shop I worked in). Now the bad part, I was making up some plywood table covers when I discovered the quill feed locked up solid. The quill is in the fully up position, the micrometer stop nut is clear and the quill lock is loose. It appears that someone managed to get the quill feed engaged and it would appear it was fed upwards. With the quill feed transmission disengaged the spindle turns freely, but the quill she is locked. With quill feed transmission engaged, it sounds like the quill feed clutch is disengaging as it is making nasty clacking sounds.
I could not manually activate the feed kick off lever, I unscrewed the screw holding the kick off lever at the bottom and it released, but the quill is still tight.
I removed the cover for the feed clutch mechanism, and according to a video I viewed, it seems like the clutch should slide out, but it seems stuck in place and I haven't applied any force as I am unsure of appropriate procedure.
I have called the supplier of the mill, but the tech has not returned my call yet. The supplier is a days travel and a ferry ride away, I am hoping for warranty, but I am not holding my breath as I can't exactly explain what happened as so far no one has fessed up to tinkering with the feed mechanism.
Further, our maintenance mechanic just went off on medical and will be gone for at least 4 weeks. I suspect if this is to be fixed reasonably quickly, I will be fixing it.
Any suggestions where to start would be mucho appreciated!
Thank you,
Alan

Shopteach1 · Feb 11, 2016

I did get the quill freed up. I removed everything that I could to try to release any tension that was causing the binding, clutch cover, quil on right hand of machine, the feed trip mechanism.... It took some tap tapping on clutch, wiggle, wiggle, and kersprung the clutch let go. The quill is now free, but there seems to be some damage to the feed gears inside, I suspect the worm/gear on the spindle that drives the works. It makes the same unhappy clacking sounds it did when it was bound up. I can engage the feed handwheel and feed the quil up/down, but engaging the pwer feed causes the unhappy sounds. I also buggered the ball end on the feed engaging lever trying to disengage the feed when it was locked up.
I am not totally sure why it locked though, I would have thought that the power feed should trip whether the quill was being fed up or down. Not impressed with Thomas Skinner (mill supplier) as I came clean with the service dep't, didn't just demand warranty, but I have talked to 2 service techs who both said they would get me some information / parts diagrams etc and neither one of them has managed to get back to me. Crappy service in my opinion. I have been busy last little bit, end of term report cards, start up of new classes and a house build on the home front. I am going to call the sales rep and see if he can kick start the service techs for me.
Regards,
Alan

abarnsley · Feb 12, 2016

The quill feed if fragile on a BP or clone. Only rated for 3/8ths drill in steel...

Feed should trip off going up or down, when properly adjusted/assembled, with nothing broken or bent...

If feed gears are damaged, head needs to come apart almost all the way...

Part 160 (simple snap ring) if missing, breaks part 183... Which controls feed trip...

outdoort · Dec 11, 2017

Just had this happen to me after assembling my alliant 42vc after rebuilding the head. Was there a solution for this?

Newman109 · Dec 12, 2017

abarnsley said:
The quill feed if fragile on a BP or clone. Only rated for 3/8ths drill in steel...

Feed should trip off going up or down, when properly adjusted/assembled, with nothing broken or bent...

If feed gears are damaged, head needs to come apart almost all the way...

Part 160 (simple snap ring) if missing, breaks part 183... Which controls feed trip...

Yes, the quill feeds are rather fragile. When I got my big Webb BP clone, the up and down feed was intermittent. It would work, then stop , then go a little farther. When I disassembled it, I discovered that there were three missing teeth on one of the bevel gears on the end of the worm cradle. Apparently "Bubba" had been using large drills with the down feed which, as you mentioned, is a no-no.

Two new gears and all was well, plus, I got an education on how the head works, If I feed a drill now, I do it by hand. I use the down feed for boring without fear, however.

moldcore · Dec 12, 2017

Was told 40 years ago that the feed on the BP is only for boring not drilling for the reasons mentioned above. sounds like they haven't changed.

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