Hardinge DSM-59 8142 vintage breaking system

Xnerd · Apr 27, 2017

I'm having a bit of an issue figuring out this whole cork adjustment system. It appears that it is simply a screw advanced type deal although the cork is just stationary which doesn't make sense. I've seen some other models it has a spring in a pin to keep the wearing cork moving forward this one does not have that it simply has a hole in the bottom of the screw Advanced.

In other words the only cork that will ever come into play is what is already protruding from the assembly and all the interior Court will be wasted is it by Design?

I will include some pictures and let you guys tell me what you know.

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rons · Apr 27, 2017

That circular piece with the two holes on the circumference allow you to rotate the contraption and advance the cork back and forth, but not by much. It looks like you need a new cork. But if it was me I would remove the cork and clean it up. Then use some gorrila glue and build up the back side with a cylinder of wood with some trimming. No big deal.

Last time I bought some new replacement corks from Hardinge they had plenty in stock. That was over 10 years ago. I think a wine bottle cork trimmed to the right size would work.

Xnerd · Apr 27, 2017

rons said:
That circular piece with the two holes on the circumference allow you to rotate the contraption and advance the cork back and forth, but not by much. It looks like you need a new cork. But if it was me I would remove the cork and clean it up. Then use some gorrila glue and build up the back side with a cylinder of wood with some trimming. No big deal.

Last time I bought some new replacement corks from Hardinge they had plenty in stock. That was over 10 years ago. I think a wine bottle cork trimmed to the right size would work.

Yeah understood though advanced the assembly with the Jimmy bar aspect of it I was wondering if there was a way of advancing the cork itself. Apparently not I pulled it out and it's tapered so it would be floppy LOL

I looked in a drawing of an HVL braking system and it actually hit a spring and pin that kept pushing the cork forward.

At any rate yeah I think I'm going to order a new one but definitely build up the back of this one then test it out. One acre of eating thing about this is when I was taking off the Assembly of course the nuts fell down underneath the system and there's no way to retrieve them unless I get a forklift in here LOL so I think I'm going to make some L-shaped replacement bolts to fish them in underneath the plane and be done with it

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Stradbash · Apr 27, 2017

Xnerd said:
I was taking off the Assembly of course the nuts fell down underneath the system and there's no way to retrieve them unless I get a forklift in here LOL

Tape a Manet to a stick or coat hanger etc to retrieve the nuts!
You need to learn to be more creative with loss in your life.
[emoji6]

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Xnerd · Apr 28, 2017

They ended up being able to slide out under the machine, they were actually long tapped plates not nuts.. I had to jack the motor plate up all of the way as high as it would go to get them back in place! Bad bad bad design. A simple slot in the base plate to feed the bolting plate into would add nothing much to the B.O.M. and save a nightmare repair

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Stradbash · Apr 30, 2017

Stradbash said:
Tape a Manet to a stick or coat hanger etc to retrieve the nuts![emoji6]

Clearly I meant that a -magnet- should be attached to a stick and not a valuable painting. I would have simply corrected the clear auto-corruption, but for some strange reason my editing options were not available for that post and I cannot.

Stradbash · Apr 30, 2017

In the third photo..., is that a crack I see in the casting radiating from the pivot pin hole closest to the camera?

rons · Apr 30, 2017

Stradbash said:
In the third photo..., is that a crack I see in the casting radiating from the pivot pin hole closest to the camera?

Might be, but with the direction of force on the cork it would not be a cause for concern.

Xnerd · May 15, 2017

Stradbash said:
In the third photo..., is that a crack I see in the casting radiating from the pivot pin hole closest to the camera?

No, but it does look that way in the image doesn't it?
Just a casting anomaly that's the light caught just right

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Peter. · May 15, 2017

Xnerd said:
I'm having a bit of an issue figuring out this whole cork adjustment system. It appears that it is simply a screw advanced type deal although the cork is just stationary which doesn't make sense. I've seen some other models it has a spring in a pin to keep the wearing cork moving forward this one does not have that it simply has a hole in the bottom of the screw Advanced.

In other words the only cork that will ever come into play is what is already protruding from the assembly and all the interior Court will be wasted is it by Design?

I will include some pictures and let you guys tell me what you know.

Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk

I just sorted this on my HLV. Looks like you have a good bit of adjustment left. There's a set screw in the end of the arm that locks the adjuster in place,. What I did was loosen the locking screw and advance the adjuster until the cork was in full contact with the wheel. Then I released the solenoid pin and lifted the arm to create a gap and slipped a strip of coarse emery paper around the brake wheel, held the emery tight, dropped the arm and rocked the wheel back and forth so the emery cuts the proper dish in the cork whilst also cleaning it up. This gets you a nice fresh face on the cork and full contact for braking. Don't forget to oil the cork before use.

rons · May 16, 2017

You do not want to use emery or sand paper on the cork. If any particulate gets embedded in the cork it will scratch the wheel until the cork wears down. Remove the cork and gently scrape the surface. There is no need to cut a dish into the cork, within no time the cork will develop a set to the wheel diameter, soft cork pressed onto a spinning metal wheel. Let me think about that... :scratchchin:

Peter. · May 17, 2017

The manual says that the cork has a curved top that you need to line up with the pulley so I put a curve in mine using the brake wheel to get the right profile. I wasn't worried about embedded particles from the emery especially given the claggy mess that was already on it.

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Hardinge DSM-59 8142 vintage breaking system

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